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magnetman

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Everything posted by magnetman

  1. A compressor cool box is worth considering. I use a 15L one of these as a freezer set at -16'C. No idea how good it would be in a hot climate or if it's available there. Does not look very well insulated but you could probably put it in a box of insulation material provided air flow is arranged.
  2. When I did my first winter on a boat in 1994 they had just dredged some of the Ashby canal and backfilled the campshed piling with the dredgings. I spent quite a lot of time around Market Bosworth and Stoke Golding areas and collected quite a lot of coal from those dredgings. Some of the pieces were very large and needed breaking down to get into the Arctic stove.
  3. They do hold the previous high measurement in memory but the reading should show zero under normal circumstances and rise if there is a problem. One of mine will show 48ppm when button pressed but this is not the current reading it is a previously achieved high reading (last week). Not sure how one resets that and it's a good point. If the device is reading a fixed ppm without any interaction then suspect it could be faulty.
  4. Exactly. Or if you have your own fuel burning appliances it will give you an advance warning. I hear a lot of boats have multi fuel stoves. Some people even burn wood on them and even more shockingly some of the stoves have baffle plates on them. It seems a no brainer to be able to find out if there is a problem before it becomes an actual danger. I wish I had had one of these devices 20 years ago while running the EX650 generator on the back deck of the boat ! Migraines will be migraines.
  5. I witnessed a completely mad cycle in canal incident a couple of years ago. Limehouse cut towpath side. The canal path is about a metre above water. Egress ladders every couple of hundred feet. I was moored up with a Dutch Tjalk about 15ft in front of me. Ladder between the boats. Cyclist came bombing along at really quite a high speed probably getting on for 20mph. There was a pedestrian going same direction as him so he ding ding dinged her but she did not alter her course. Realising he was going to collide he dropped the bike and somersaulted into the cut narrowly missing the rudder blade of the Tjalk. Submerged completely he then surfaced and climbed up the ladder with phone in one hand. Apologised to the pedestrian lady and walked back the way he came, with the bike. It was all a bit too silly but quite impressive to watch. Cyclists need to be able to stop when pedestrians do not behave as expected. And more pedestrians on towpath need to completely ignore cyclists. Time trialling has no place on towpaths. Go somewhere else. I was told the problem is partly due to modern smartphone apps which people upload data to. It's likely that the type of people uploading the data are those who are into competitive cycling or commuting so the average speed of travel is biased towards those who are moving unacceptably fast. People just out for a slow jaunt probably don't add their data to the great big cloud machine. Makes sense.
  6. They are actually really handy. It will record right down to 10ppm. This is not a dangerous level but if it shows up then it could be the start of a serious problem such as a furring up flue pipe. I'd always have a display and would not consider one with just an alarm because the latter willl only tell you after the problem has occurred rather than giving you advance warning. They do work (fireangel) and are effective. I had 48ppm on one of my boats recently when the flue was slightly blocked from burning wood slowly. Cleaned flue and it was sorted. No emergency. If that had just been one with an alarm it would have got to the point of being potentially dangerous.
  7. Does seem likely yes. The screws which were nackered were shorter than the standard ones which was a bit odd. Less threads on them. Sorry if I've hijacked the thread a bit but this problem did cause a very significant knocking sound and that was one of the complaints the OP had.
  8. This topic got me going so I took off the rocker assembly. To find this: So now I know what was wrong! New rocker shaft ordered and a new arm rather than just the bush. That's quite nasty.
  9. The ball ends were not properly hardened and had mushroomed over. In one case you couldn't even see that it had once been ball shaped. Also some of the screws had less thread than others. Signs of previous removal of the rockers so I guess just bad quality parts. Apparently soft screws is a known problem in the classic car world too. They are the same as MGB tappet screws so I bought from mgbhive website rather than random eBay made in china job. Difficult to know without doing a hardness test on them but probably ok.
  10. I've got a pair of BMC 1.5s in one of my boats. Have had a problem with one of them since I got the boat a couple of years ago. Knocking sound and a bit of smoke but not excessive. I investigated the tappets and found that some of the screws were soft so replaced them and also I recently discovered that one of the rocker arms has a completely nackered bush. Ordered new one and will be dismantling and refitting. I'm not one to regularly take engines apart but I was surprised how much of a knocking noise badly adjusted tappets make. With the bush inside the rocker being completely worn out it is actually impossible to get correct tappet clearance on that one. I did think it might have been a sticking valve. Interesting to see if replacing the bush does sort it. Will also check the oilways in the rocker shaft itself. One day all of this will be electric and just plug a computer in to sort it out
  11. I was making the point that the change from butty boats to motor boats involved adding the gunnels and idly wondering why that would be. The craft performs the same basic function but has an engine in it rather than being pulled. Of course horse boats are another topic but it seems that butties copied horse boat cabins then when the motors came there was a rethink and side decks were added.
  12. I did add a little bit to my post before I saw yours. Also I suppose the cabin height and bridges comes into it. ETA working boats with short cabins won't get the wobble problem. Good point though about a modern craft. Could be problematic.
  13. Other than the perceived requirement to be able to walk around the boat on very narrow side decks I can:t really see a major problem with doing a narrow boat without gunnels. The old butty boats had no gunnel beside the cabin. Not sure if anyone has done it but it could be interesting to build a narrow boat with no gunnels but a system of steps at bow and stern for reliable and safe access to the roof area. I wonder what the design philosophy was when it came to making motorised narrow boats and putting the side decks/gunnels on. In modern elfin safety parlance they do look like quite a nasty risk. Much better to gain access to the craft from the cabin top. Perhaps it was a structural addition deemed necessary due to the craft being motorised.
  14. That makes sense but would it be stronger than if the whole thing was a box section? Maybe it would. Box section is not very strong is it. It is interesting to consider where the failure would occur if a narrow boat was secured front and stern and jacked up in the middle until it broke in half.
  15. Bloke I know said that the tiles in his shower room moved when his 50ft all steel widebeam was dry docked. Boat seemed to have twisted or bent somehow on uneven supports. This seems unlikely but it is possible I suppose. It would be quite interesting to do the maths and work out how much force would be needed from under the vessel to cause it to buckle lengthways. It is a sort of channel section in a way but the gunnels must introduce a weakness structurally.
  16. I've always found that whenever anyone attempts to assist me things go wrong incredibly quickly because my way of doing it was technically correct and manageable without assistance. If you get it right in the first instance the only outcome of someone else getting involved is that it will go wrong. Obviously in larger systems there is a need for more operational units so it could become complex. This is where automation will be a real boon in future. So much conflict can be avoided it will be a wonderful world.
  17. It would be interesting to see what sort of crane would be used to lift a sea going ship. Dry dock v crane/travel hoist is quite an interesting topic.
  18. Quite a good argument for single handed boating.
  19. I really like Mentour Pilot on YouTube. He gets right down to the details of some really grim aircraft accidents. As long as you can ignore the sponsorship and occasional adverts the content is very good. Example. The Keg'erth air disaster.
  20. My P4 has a Perkins thermostart system in the air intake. At this time of year if you don't energise this preheater it will crank for ages and ages before starting. I mean ages, starter motor very hot and wires to starter even hotter. It's usually wired to the ignition switch but if not then at least on the P4 there are two brass pins just below the air intake which are the electric connection for the preheater. 20 seconds of 12v on these pins makes it start up immediately even in winter.
  21. Not sure if Chris Bennett still posts here but he had a Perkins P3 on narrow boat Baldock. He might have a manual. Quite a few P3 engines around on boats so I would expect someone to be able to provide a manual. I've got a P4 on one of my boats but no manual for it.
  22. I've seen it done at Highline yachting at Iver on the Slough arm but this was a long time ago. They may not do it anymore.
  23. Having had all the variations I prefer the 5a plugs / sockets. The 2a ones are a bit small and feel tinny. Another useful low voltage DC arrangement is the old Hella plugs/sockets. Rated to something like 15a they are a nice alternative. I think if I was doing a fitout I would put these in preference to the 5a white stuff although they are very nice. Also available in brown bakelite of course. The hella type : eurocarparts £4 for the socket. 16a at 12v Also available as surface mount
  24. There used to be a woman moored near rickmansworth for years who had 9 cats on a narrow boat. She emptied all the cat litter into the cut and it caused a shallow spot just above Lot Mead lock.
  25. A bloke on my countryside mooring had a major problem with carbon monoxide recently. He is new to the whole thing. I went on his boat and having inspected the fire noticed that the (moveable) baffle plate had moved (!) Forwards and completely blocked the flue. I can't remember the make of fire (arada?) but it is a small modern one. The baffle plate can move forwards and backwards and I reckon with engine running and boat being used it can easily end up in the wrong place due to vibration. So I pushed it back against the fire bricks and there is for now no problem. I did also suggest the fireangel CO monitor with the digital readout. Handy kit that is. And be extra careful when burning wood on t'fire. CO is bad news. Damhikt but I had overexposure years ago and it is beginning to show up as a health problem. You need to avoid this.
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