Kae

After drying out several boats that suffered a serious water leak, all the wood has retained its original shape and integrity with the exception of one ply floor panel. I personally wouldn't use MDF as one good soaking could lead it to expand and fail and a costly refit. No-one sets out to flood their boat, but a failed calorifer, pipe or water tank is all it takes - and if you've used decent materials, it's mostly just inconvienent to dry out rather than seriously damaging. Just my opinion

A useful addition would be "places" too.

The problem is the sand/paint mix is often tougher than the sand paper you're using to sand it off... so you end up sanding your sander... I'm sure that made sense somewhere... I like the Tercoo wheels for removing painted sand too. Very efficent and relatively quick.

Can only really see that being the case if you dip different tanks with it and transfer the bug between the two. "Bug" exists in the water layer, I don't see how it can grow on your dipstick.

The original poster is no longer a member of this forum, so we're unlikely to find out unfortunately!

I seem to remember someone on here stripping one of these to see if they could replace the bushes, may be worth a quick search (I can't do one on here). No reason not to fit a 240v pump. It's used so infrequently that it won't be a serious drain on your batteries if your inverter is on anyway.

A great cause and very well spoken of, next payday I'll donate

Cascamite is great stuff. I know several bowyers that use it in between the laminations of high poundage warbows (similar to what was found on the Mary Rose but they were one piece Yew). If it can withstand the forces within a 180# bow, then it should be good for a mast.

Spent a bit of time trawling the tinterwebs but drawn a blank apart from this place: http://www.kingfisherdieselengines.org/forums.html Perhaps they'll be able to suggest a supplier?

So it's a part of the driveplate?

Any markings on the other parts?

Well I've learnt something new, I knew the tachometer reading relied on the alternators output but didn't realise it was AC - Although makes sense now you point it out. I've edited the erroneous rubbish in my post above so as not to mislead anyone else and will now go and read Alternators 101.

Removed due to high tripe content - see quote below.

I like custard, but it's so difficult to find decent donuts... most are too dry with very little filling

It will be easy to find something that will dissolve the glue, the problem will be it soaking into the wood - this will either cause paint problems or will dissolve the wood glue that holds the laminates together (although highly unlikely).

Can't see that lasting more than a few attempts at mooring up at the rings in three inches of mud/dog poo/gravel.

You can paint it direct to varnish. I de-nibbed the varnish first with a very light sanding, then painted over with Zinnser BIN. It's the consistency of milk.

Personally I'd do the cleanup, then paint first with Zinnser BIN primer - this will seal the wood, overpaint any left over residue and provide a good key for the top coat. I've painted the varnished walls in my boat using this as the primer, it's great stuff.

I'm in the same (metaphysical) boat Ange!

Fair point DH. The times I'd want it it would probably be useless!

I'm happy not having one and not having yet another weak point in the hull, but, sometimes, as I single hand, I really wish I did!

easiest way to find out is to top it up, go for a bit of a chug and then see what the level is. If it's back where it was, it's where it's meant to be. If it's a bit higher, then you know you needed some water. It's all part of learning your particular boat.