bowten

OOOOOPS better get out the kitchen!

Check the water tank especially the breather pipe and filler pipe they may have become dislodged.If this is the case every time the tank was filled water would enter the bilge.Another possibility is a leak from the water pipe from the tank to the water pump.

Exactly,the stern gland is not the problem here.

Must agree with this,Karndean is exceptional stuff.Looks just like wood and is very long lasting.

As you probably already know I use pea gravel as ballast, I have never had a wet bilge caused by condensation in any of the boats I have built.To be honest it is taken for granted that the bilge will be bone dry.

The new finrads give a good heat output per metre and very cost effective,they look good and can be sprayed in different colours.If used in conjunction with good sized towel rail as a heatsink I think they look much better than domestic radiators.

It is quite viable to run a multi fuel stove without a back boiler and be very cosy even in the depth of winter.However this can depend on your interior boat layout and the type of insulation.If yer keep your stove running 24/7 and keep your interior doors open there shouldn't be a problem.I usually fit a 7kw stove for this size of boat,this has the capacity to be able to load the stove and leave on 'tickover' for many hours if the boat is to be left unattended.

Those blasted fellow moorers,how dare they.

Ctek is very good stuff

It is.

Batteries but with a difference.Energy Solutions are now selling Lithium Ion batteries,but before you start dribbling prepare yourself for a sharp shock.The prices quoted for a 200 amp is astronomical,not really financially viable.£4740,Oh well.

But yer can moor yer boat there for a lot less.

This thread is no good without pictures

I use Blue Sea systems.400 amp mega fuse and holder.Expensive but the best.Will take mega size cables,by the way I use welding cable to suit the size and length required to do the job.I always over specify on cable size.

Have indeed spoken nicely to the said operators over several years to absolutely no avail.Have shouted at said operators to no avail.Have threatened said operators to no avail.

I agree,being moored in Skipton can be hazardous.Having had my boats hit on numerous occasions I never look forward to the silly season.Drunks,foul mouthed yoofs and arrogant crews and thats just the marina and fine weather boat owners.The hire companies have alot to answer for,do they actually spend any time giving instruction to the crews of these boats.I was hit yesterday by a wide beam hire boat and several years ago had to be craned out to repair the rudder and skeg,hire boat again.Sorry to piss on yer parade but I thought your thread was a dream,one that I cannot share I'm afraid.

Concrete slabs have lime in its manufacture,lime does not like steel.These take on moisture and then slowly release it.Metal is expensive if you are ballasting a new boat,you may need up to 9 tons(large wide beam).Lead is a not an option unless you are metal thief or own a back street salvage yard.The bricks from used/old electric storage radiators,extremely heavy and very cheap.Washed pea gravel or round shaped pebbles the size of a pea or slightly larger are cheap at £47 per ton including delivery,there are no detrimental effects by using these no matter what some of the keyboard scientists say on here.However please use wotever suits thee.Sez thee later gone fer a pint or two of Black Sheep bitter and a chat with the local boat fitters.Regards the Boatman.

Could you give me a quote for a ton of lead please.I hope this is not from the local chapel roof.Mind you its one way of hiding yer dosh under the bed.Anything to do with metal is expensive these days ask the Chinese.

I use washed pea gravel,the type used for driveways.It's cheap and easy to handle and readily available.Delivered in in 1 ton bags just cut the bags and shovel into boat.Another good material is the heavy bricks used in electric storage radiators.Dont forget to use anti rust treatment in the bilge.