RAP

If I put Shire diesel engine oil, 10W30 API CC multigrade in my JP3, should I expect a smokier exhaust and a drop in oil pressure? Should I use a monograde instead? Thanks. PS Will anyone with a JP3 (and their boat) be at the Braunston Historic boat gathering at the end of June - would love to compare notes/engines?

My skin tank is well baffled, and at 600x2000x25 is quite adequate. I had some overheating issues on my JP3 which were due to an incorrect plumbing circuit and thermostat bypass problems, not the size or functioning of the skin tank. I am grateful to the forum for their help and advice to overcome this issue. Although I have yet to test my revised plumbing on a river, I am confident that my skin tank is more than adequate, so in my humble opinion I think your slightly smaller sized skin tank is also adequate.

I am considering Morris SAE 20 and Morris SAE 20w50 for my stationary JP3, which one should I use? Thanks.

My Lister JP3 appears to have an oily bubble leak at number 3 cylinder head gasket joint which may suggest a loss of compression. Here’s a video so that you can see for yourselves. T0hESIdlWjI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0hESIdlWjI On number 1 cylinder I have a very small water leak/weep. Should I be concerned or does this coupled with the oily bubbles indicate heads off, skimmed (if needed) and replaced with new gaskets? Other factors that you may need to be aware of: 1. I have not tested compression - not sure how to achieve this, but the engine starts easily ('on the button') and the exhaust is clean when up to temperature; 2. Fuel consumption is OK, about 1.25 to 1.5 litres per hour; 3. No oil consumption, well none that has been noticeable over time. Appreciate your comments. Thanks, RAP

I have now replaced the 74 degree stat with an 82 degree stat. I made a small bypass hole in its ‘moveable’ rim. The hole is ‘v’ shaped because I used a file to make the hole (too tricky to drill this central part of the stat) and the size of the hole is about 1.5mm2. Tested the engine running at 520rpm, stationary (not in gear). It reached 80 degrees before the stat opened and settled at 77-78 degrees. Engine was running for 2 ½ hours. So far so good. Took the boat out yesterday for a proper run. Cruising at 620rpm the stat initially opened at 84 degrees and then settled to a worrying 67-68 degrees. This told me that the water pump is working very well, and coupled with the very small bypass hole in the stat is allowing too much flow. It was OK at 520rpm, but not at the faster 620rpm. I have a 28mm gate valve fitted on the keel cooler return flow between the gearbox oil cooler and the engine, and simply reduced the flow by 75%. Cruising at 520rpm, 620rpm and even a very fast 750rpm the temperature maintained a steady 77-79 degrees. After cruising for 2 ½ hours I think I have now solved my engine overheating issues, or have I? A much longer cruise under varying conditions would be a better test. Thanks for your help. RAP

Now fitted with a 74 degree thermostat with a 2mm hole. Still not overheating, in fact it is running too cool. Average temperature is now 69 degrees. My next plan is to replace the thermostat again but without a hole. This is the next logical step. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

I removed the one way valve, filter and isolation assembly and replaced it with 28mm pipe. Took the boat out this evening and gave it a good run/ test. As predicted the engine is now running several degrees lower than the thermostat's rated 74 degrees. I will replace the thermostat and drill a 3.5mm hole in the rim unless any of the experts suggest a smaller hole. Interestingly, with the engine idling, waiting to go through the swing bridges the temperature dropped to 60 degrees. Thanks again for your valuable advice.

Thanks for your feedback, it has been enlightening. Some answers to the queries raised: Bagdad Boatman: The supply pipe from the keel cooler does not get hot. The boat was built by Tim Tyler and on that basis I do not doubt the keel cooling tank. Timleech: Before deciding to keep the pump I queried whether it could cope with a keel cooler. I asked two separate and well known and well respected Vintage engine specialists. Both said it could cope. By’eck: The stationary pump doesn’t allow plumbing as you recommend, but it is close. I can see that adding separate Jabsco/Johnson pump could be plumbed as you recommend. Timleech: The stationary pump mounted on the head is, as far as I am aware, original equipment, and would have fed the large radiator mounted in front of the engine (when it was a generator). By’eck: Other engines with similar configuration. I believe narrow boat Zeus retains its original head mounted water pump. I agree that the 4.5mm thermostat bypass hole is large. Plenty of hot water is bypassing this hole and reaching the keel cooler. Timleech: Pipework is 28mm throughout except where the one way valve reduces this to about 15mm. I agree the combined filter, one way valve and isolation assembly is the root of my problem. I believe this restriction coupled with the reduced pressure return from the keel cooler is preventing cool water from entering the system. I also agree that the thermostat bleed hole is too big but I can’t test this until I remove the one way valve – if it then runs too cool I will replace the thermostat and drill a smaller hole in the rim. The yellow box on the engine is the water feed. The water outlet is behind the pump on the head. The pump pushes water through the engine from the water outlet, via a tee before the thermostat, to the water feed. When the thermostat opens the pump will push water to the keel cooler and return cooler water via the oil cooler to the water feed. Steamraiser2: Agree, I will remove the filter and one way valve. Only reason for adding it was to prevent hot water feeding back into the oil cooler, but having pondered this, then providing the thermostat is doing its job then it should be OK. I assume checking the head for the generator type pump means I have the water outlet in the side of the head? Airlocking pump – I’ll make sure there’s no air by loosening the jubilee clips where the copper piping is connected to the pump. So, my action plan is: Remove one way valve, filter and isolation assembly; Test; Feedback results to forum; If running too cold then replace thermostat with bypass hole drilled to 2mm diameter. If still running too hot, consult the forum. Again, thanks for your valued feedback.

Hi, Please review my engine water cooling diagram and advise what is wrong. It overheats and boils. I suspect thermostat (unlikely, previously tested OK) and the one way valve may not be allowing throughput - perhaps the return from the keel cooler is not strong enough to open the valve? If I can avoid using the one way valve then that would be ideal. It's there to prevent hot water pumping into the gearbox cooler. Points to consider: 1. The plumbing is new; 2. The one way valve is new; 3. Previous plumbing did not allow water to circulate around engine; 4. Thermostat has 4.5mm 'bypass' hole in rim; 5. Diagram closely matches actual plumbing work, and is plumbed in such a way to accommodate engine ancillary items; 6. Water circulation pump is original Lister JP3 stationary water pump - not a modern Jabsco. Thanks for your reviews.

Shiny Sinks - you'll be impressed how easy and effortless this is. Keep it off paintwork, it is slightly abrasive? Rinse/wipe clean - job done. You can then polish with Brasso but you'll probably find it's clean and shiny enough. Oh, you won't need gloves. When you wash your hands all the black muck washes away easily with the Shiny Sinks engrained into your fingers and nails.

Has anyone fitted an exhaust filter to protect themselves from inhaling any fumes or soot particles? This would be useful for roof mounted exhaust stacks.

Any chance we can see some photos of this shared header tank with details of the connections? Sounds interesting. Thanks RAP

Hi Richard, I too have suffered your pain. I tried three attempts to match the Plover's colours using my computer. Here are the final RAL colours barring the mid green - I have yet to decide that one. Traffic Red 3020 Traffic Yellow 1023 Traffic Blue 5017 Traffic Green 6024 Note all colours share the same naming convention - Traffic. I have inserted four photos - two of Plover, and the other two of my very recent paint job. Please note the paint job is unfinished, I have yet to choose and complete the darker (mid) green, and then complete the signwriting. Hope this helps. Regards, RAP

Hi Geoffrey, Did you ask about my two queries regarding the engine thermostat housing and the tongue and groove? Thanks, RAP

Update from GAG GAG NEWSLETTER #89 Today the Shipley Planning Panel REJECTED the Sty Lane application by a vote of 6 to 1. Congratulations to all of you and a really big thank you for all your support and for your donations to enable us to fight this on your behalf. Terry Brown (Chairman) email: mailinglist@greenhill-action-group.co.uk www: http://www.greenhill-action-group.co.uk

Hi Geoffrey, I did wander over to the wet dock last Saturday during the Braunston Historic Boat Show and was delighted to view your boat. I took some photos and also spoke to Bob. You must be very pleased with the quality of the fit out and the paint job - I was. I too have a JP3 but mine is a marinised version of the stationary engine, aged 67 years. I am curious to know more about your thermostat housing. Is this a Redshaw solution? Also, where did Bob source the tongue and groove ceiling? Thanks, RAP

Redrow and Bellway along with their newly appointed architects held an exhibition on 18 and 19 February 2011 for the local community to view their latest plans before they re-submit their previous planning application (and any amendments to it following the exhibition/consultation with the public) in early March 2011. At the exhibition it was revealed that Redrow and Bellway had approached BW to request a change to the cruising license to restrict the passage of boats through Micklethwaite swing bridge during peak road traffic times. This effectively means that boats will only be able to cruise that section of the canal between the hours of 10am and 4pm. I believe BW would refuse such a change, or would they if they were offered an incentive during these difficult times? Another interesting piece of information was also raised - boat traffic (and swing bridges) has priority over road traffic. I'm not sure if this is true in that area, or whether specific moveable bridges on the Leeds and Liverpool enjoy this privilege. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Hi Frangar, I wanted to know the rpm on my JP3 so I bought a cheap cycle computer from Halfords (£15), stuck the magnet on the 26in flywheel with CT1, and it works well. Useful, since the largest diameter wheel for the cycle computer is 26 inches.I have converted the speed from mph to rpm. Since I have a speedwheel I know the rpm based upon the position of the speedwheel - no need for a separate rev counter. I now know that the engine is spinning at 650 rpm. 2.5 turns of the speedwheel from the tickover position, and gives a canal speed of 4mph. The speed was calculated over a measured distance and time. Let me know if this is useful - would be keen to compare JP3 notes/queries with another JP3 owner. Regards, RAP

Phylis, you've seen something that some of us haven't or have possibly overlooked, please enlighten. Thanks.

The application document numbered 974848, recommends option E. This is to replace the current single lane bridge with a two lane swing bridge. The road will be 4.8 metres wide and footpath 1.8 metres wide. This means the swing bridge will be 6.6 metres wide. The fixed overbridge option was rejected by the developers for fear of objection from local residents and steep accessibilty to clear the required height over the canal. However, BW and the local council originally favoured a fixed bridge. Please note that the application has been submitted for a new and much wider swing bridge. I have heard a rumour that the developer will evict the local Airedale Boat Club moorers from their club moorings. The moorings form part of the canalside boundary. The developer wants to close the lane and the canal for six months. I am off to sign the Greenhill Action Group's petition, and write to council to object. I urge you all to do so too. We cannot let developers evict boaters from their moorrings and close the canals for their fat profits, or eat into the green space beside the canals.

The application docs refer to a two lane swing bridge, one main access road in and out of the new housing estate, with a gated alternative access for emergency vehicles, should they need it. The canal and lane could be closed for up to six months. This looks disastrous for the area.