charles123

Wonderful boat. While I admire the original working boats, only having a BMC and engine room make them impractical for most owners who like the conveniences. (not a problem to the enthusiasts of course. But this one with the cabin extension and under deck bed, which I would like to see a photo of if anyone has one, makes it much more practical and does not spoil the fine lines at all Charles

Good work Lee, put some more photos up when finished. And don't forget to paint that Klaxon you showed me Charles

Seeing your photos of the stern gear reminded me to mention that I have gone for a drip less seal, I don't know how successful but had some positive feedback when I asked about them on the forum. I went for a Volvo Penta, however although one end of the seal fits the 2" shaft the other end that is clamped to the stuffing box fitting which is turned the other way round where the seal fits over is undersized by about 10mm. To resolve this I had to have a brass sleeve machined that was pressed onto the stuffing box fitting and secured with two grub screws drilled and tapped. The seal now fits perfectly over this and is clamped in place so the result when the boat goes in the water should be no drips, a clean stern bilge. No screw down greaser is fitted so no grease to mess with Charles

I think its inside Preston Brook Marina which is owned by Peel Holdings, there is a elsan disposal there and water point. The marina is just up the Runcorn arm. The skip is separate again on the main line just along from Claymore Navigation hire base between it and Midland Chandlers Charles

It may be on the high side, the price of a fully restored JP 2 or 3 or LW 2 or 3 will be about £12k (or more) inc the gearbox and alternators and they are nicer engines and older too. I dont think it will sell for quite that but most of us have read the boat tests in the mags for trad looking boats with vintage engines that cost well over £100k so if £10k or £12k is spent on the engine, for that kind of boat it is not excessive in the overall spend Charles

kedian@kedian2002.fsnet.co.uk Martin Kedian

I have flicked onto that channel a number of times and its a constant repeat of the same waterways and caravan shows, almost never anything new. I would be interested to know whats in in financially for the backers as there is very little revenue earning advertising as far as I can see and the program's are very low budget. I sometimes think you do with a whip round to buy yourselves a couple of better cameras/tripods and something to stop the wind noise you get sometimes when its outside and windy Charles

I have just fitted one to my new build, I don't know how well they work but for the sake of about £50 I thought it worth a go. I have mentioned this on the forum but regarding getting down with your hands to clear stuff, you don't need to do this if you take a mop/brush handle and attach one of those pruning saws that fold out from its handle, attach to the handle with 2 jubilee clips and away you go. Total cost about £12. When you need to clear the bags/rope from your prop saw them off without getting your hands wet, either the stuff falls away or you can hook it out with the saw and toss it onto the tow path or wherever you want Charles

Would you give us a clue of what type of fender you are after, button, side, tipcat etc? Midland offer good value especially when the have a 20% off day But how about £49.99 for a coir tipcat? http://www.compassmarine.co.uk/product_cat.asp?CategoryID=94 Charles

Indeed an excellent post from Graham and a fascinating site linked to Acme, I like the Locomotive whistle best http://www.acmewhistles.co.uk/xcart/product.php?productid=83&cat=6&page=1 But the other part of my original post is about why we dont see them in old photos or decoration in modern BMC? Charles

Watching the film painted boats, several times you see the steerer blowing a horn as a warning to other boats. I wonder what these were called. Also I dont think I have seen them hung up in the cabin in old photos, you think they would be given they are decorative and polish up being made of copper or brass. Nor have I seen one in modern boats boatmans cabin, you see plenty of plates, lace and brass items but not the horn Charles

I noticed that as the butty entered the tunnel the lamp was switched on so there must have been a battery somewhere, I wonder where, and I also I wonder how it got charged and whether it was used for a cabin light until flat then recharged Charles

It ought to free itself as the water rises but I can see it can be worrying. As the water rises try and push the boat off, this is what we did in similar circumstances, by the bow as that's the higher end. If you have duct tape or can get hold of any I would stick some over the openings you refer to and seal any other openings, like deck hatches or doors Hope all goes well Charles

I am about to fit the rearmost stern shaft to my boat build. it has the standard stern gear in place with the stuffing box. In previous boats I have gone the conventional way with stuffing box and greaser, so daily would wind the greaser down to stop the drips. However I understand there are alternatives that do not have to be greased daily and presumably don't drip. Is this a Water lubricated Cutlass bearing. From Vetus web site is says "Polyurethane-rubber lining. Outer bushings made of brass" What else if anything do I need to complete the installation? Anyone recommend these? Or are there others? Appreciate thoughts please Charles

Steve Regarding your question on size of pump out tank, I have gone for an 80 gal one. When I had a look on brokerage sites to see what others had fitted I found that an average size was about 60 gals All looking good on your build, keep it up Charles

Nice boat, lovely paint work and wonderful signwritting, very impressed. Can you post some more photos, especially the finished job Charles

Aluminium checker plate could work, its quite cheap and can be cut to the size you want. It is pretty thin so I would suggest its used over a ply board to give it rigidity http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/aluminium-tread-plate-chequer-1300mm-x-580mm-x-2mm-/260749724116?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item3cb5e509d4 Charles

Its well worth the trip, deep and wide, at the end there are moorings but surrounded by roads so noisy but if you ask the boat club if you can moor on their side then no one can get at you. You can walk down the line of the old flight and see Bridgewater house. Also there is Norton Priory and museum half way up, they have a mooring. I prefer a winter visit to this arm/branch. The Runcorn scallies don't like the cold Charles

Link http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9275443&fh_view_size=50&fh_start_index=0&fh_sort_order=-1&fh_sort_by=prdAveRating&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=cladding&fh_eds=%C3%9F&fh_refview=search&isSearch=true Charles

Kevin What I would recommend is reed and bead T&G, much nicer on the eye than standard T&G. One of the most convenient suppliers is B&Q who do this as a premium grade softwood with less knots than usual Keep up the good work Charles

I think you will find it does not work that way for new builds, there is not sufficient profit in the price for the boatbuilder to discount the price. In any event they all work with a long lead time according to their order book which is typically 12 to 18 months. If you were in business would you like to tie yourself to a price 12 months hence with all the rising prices such as steel let alone discount the price? My own opinion on a survey of a new boat would be a waste of money. I doubt this is a common practice. I fear you approach to the topic "surveyor and discounting" will likely be viewed a time waster by the prospective builder Charles