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pete.i

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Everything posted by pete.i

  1. Hi I've tried ordinary outdoor varnish, yacht varnish and the stupidly expensive brass laquer. Nohing works for long on the chimney bands because of the heat I think. Brass laquer works for about 2 years on mushroom vents and such but there is no heat invoved with those. So I would say that the only way to keep brass chimney bands pretty is to keep polishing them. Pete
  2. Same here I have a contract with the boatyard where I moor and I pay them a mooring fee but I don't have a mooring permit. Pete
  3. pete.i

    BMC 1.8 Fuel Pump

    Hi If it is the throttle/stop lever part of the pump that is leaking this is a fairly common occurrence with these pumps now. Various theories have been put forward as to why they are leaking the most favored theory is bio fuel causing the o ring seals to leak. I have just done mine and it is a fairly easy DIY job. As was mentioned Monkey 1 has a post reference this problem but he has taken his pictures down but I have copies of the pictures. http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/image002.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/image008.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/image006.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/image004.jpg View those pictures in relation to the parts of Monkey 1s post. Complete gasket/o ring kits can be bought off Ebay for about £20 ish. Obviously if you are not going to do a full refurb of the pump and that is best left to the experts, you wont need the whole kit but the two offending o rings are in that kit. Having said that the o rings should be available on their own. I bought a big box of various sized o rings from Aldi for a fiver I think it was. Pete Hm dunno why the piccies are not showing but the links work.
  4. LOL Richard sounds like you have already tried it. But I don't know about anyone else wanting to put this great lump of metal in their car. Anyway we will see. Hi mike. What would I need a blanking plate for? Re the thermostats thanks but it's probably just as cheap for me to buy one as it would be for me to pay the postage to get one sent up but. that wasn't meant to come out as being ungrateful. i am hugely grateful for the help and info that you have given me in the past re Keb. As far as the bores and pistons are concerned on that old engine I am going to reassemble what I have after checking the other bearings etc and then do a pressure test on each cylinder. The starter motor works and i have turned the engine over without the head on and it does spin okay. I have got a diesel engine cylinder pressure tester and have used it on the engine that is in Keb. I got around 180 psi from each cylinder on Keb (um maybe that first number is wrong) anyway I got what looked like a good reading for all four cylinders (got the info of YouTube for a different engine) so if I get similar readings for this second engine I will assume the bores are okay. I only paid £250 for this engine so I can afford to spend a bit on testing it. I got what looks like a nearly new diesel injector pump and a good head also a working starter motor and solenoid and a good alternator so I am happy with what I have and it gives me chance to play with an engine that ISN'T in my boat. Pete EERR yeah 380 psi I meant LOL.
  5. Okay Tony thanks for that. The manual that you downloaded is probably the same one that I have. I got it from the Norfolk Broads site. I haven't looked in that to see if the dimensions are in it but I will do as you say. To Richard. This gearbox is heavy as you know but if anyone volunteers they do need to know that. I can get it on to whatever vehicle they bring but I would think that a small car wouldn't cut it. I would cover it very well in thick rubble type plastic sacks to prevent any oil drips. I have emptied all the oil out but there will still a small amount of residual left. Pete
  6. Okay thanks for that everyone. Where would I find measurements for the bore dimensions Tony? I have the, so called, workshop manual that I got of the tinterweb but that does seem to be a bit sparse for a workshop manual. Would they be in there? Richard do you want this gearbox? I do not want anything for it but it will cost to get it to you. I'm not pushing but if you don't want it then I'm going to bin it. Pete
  7. Hi Richard. Yes I would prefer an engine driven water pump but as this is going to be a spare engine for my boat should I need to use it then I will take the bits off my present engine. I can get a piccy of the flywheel but its down in the garage cos my missus wouldn't let me strip the engine down in the kitchen so give me a minute and I'll post a picture up. http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_185045.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_185059.jpg There ya go. Pete
  8. Hi everyone. I have, finally, managed to separate the gearbox and all the drive gubbins that were attached to the flywheel from the engine. As I have said I do not want the gearbox so if you want to pm me Richard (RLWP) then, if you want it, we can arrange to get it to you somehow. It's bliidy heavy though. Anyway pics below are from the engine. As you can see the big end bearing shells look brand new and IMO have never been run. The crank pins do have run marks on them, which I would expect, but they are not scored in any way. So basically this engine is looking good. I haven't removed the other pistons yet to check their big ends but seeing as I have got it stripped this far I might as well do that. The reason I removed this piston is because the top of the piston is quite badly scored. It looks to me as if something has dropped into the cylinder and the engine has been run with whatever had fallen in. Judging by the marks it would appear to be a washer of some sort. There is nothing in the cylinder now and there are no marks on the cylinder head corresponding to that cylinder so I think that either the head has been skimmed to get rid of any dents or the head has been replaced. I have a couple of questions for the BMC gurus though. First one. I'm fairly sure the engine has been run after repair with the piston in that state. Do you think it would be wise to put that piston back or should I get a new one? Second one. There is no water pump on this engine there is a water pump shaped casting over the hole that would accommodate the impeller but there is no impeller there neither is there a shaft or pulley to drive a pump. The casting has the bit where the shaft would be blanked off but it's not a blanking plug it is part of the casting. Is this normal? I assume that an external pump of some sort would have been used to move the water around the engine. There is a thermostat on the head and that is in a conventional thermostat housing. There is only one pulley attached to the end of the crankshaft and that is used to drive the alternator. Oh and there is a starting handle boss as well on that pulley and I'm told that this is an early engine because of the starter handle boss. That's not relevant to my questions though, I just thought I would throw that in. Third one. Now that I have removed the gearbox and the drive cog and bearings from the engine I now have a recess in the middle of the flywheel which has five studs protruding from it and these studs are what attached the drive shaft to the gearbox. My question is is this a standard flywheel or is has this flywheel been made/adapted specifically for the gearbox. The reason I have put the piston side view piccy in is because there was a discussion about pistons in BMCs with five rings and that seemed to be not normal, at least that is what I gleaned from the posts. Anyway as you can see my engine has five rings on the piston and they look okay as well, although assuming the other big end bearings are okay, I will replace all the rings on the pistons as a matter of course. http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_163832.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_163748.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_164031.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140307_163859.jpg Okay that will do for now. I'm sure I will have more questions later and thanks for your help it is much appreciated. Cheers Pete
  9. Hi Scuse my ignorance on this chaps and apologies for jumping in with an irrelevance but what is the difference between replating and overplating. I understand what overplating is but my concept of replating is removing all the old hull steel plate and replacing it with new sheet steel. If that is correct surely that would be a massive undertaking. Enlighten me please. Cheers Pete
  10. Yep i'm only using a titchy lump ammer. I'll have to dig out my sledge ammer.
  11. Hi Tony Yes there is a sandwich plate between the box body and the flywheel housing. But everything is beginning to move now after wiggling and pushing and pulling. It's only a very small movement but from small things big things can be achieved or something like that. Anyway it is coming off so I will persevere. Cheers Pete
  12. Morning all and thanks for the replies. Richard you can have the box for free I have no use for it. A couple of problems though. First, I haven't managed to separate it from the engine yet. Despite taking all the screws out from everything that I can see securing it to the block, so far, it hasn't budged a mm. Secondly I am in Selby Yorkshire so getting it to you could be a problem and thirdly I took the oil drain plug out this morning and about a gallon of water came out. The drive shaft does move so it isn't seized but, obviously, water shouldn't be where it was. Anyway your welcome to have if you still want it subject to me separating it from the engine and making arrangements to get it to you. Cheers Pete
  13. Hi all I was wondering if anyone can identify this gearbox for me. I have bought this engine and gearbox and I hope to refurb the engine. I do not want the gearbox but if it is any good then I will be, possibly, looking to offload it at a later date. Thanks Pete
  14. Another recommendation for Mike of Blue star from me. Pete
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  17. I have the bigger one of these and I found that it was a bit too low down for me to sit comfortably on it. I built a 3 inch wooden plinth to stand it on. I have to say that the seat is not quite as wide as a standard domestic loo and if you have a fat arse as I have. well you can imagine. I am only of average height, 5ft 9 ish. Pete
  18. I wouldn't say it was untrue in any way. Perhaps a little exaggerated but then where safety is concerned a little exaggeration, to err on the cautious side, is a good thing IMO. They do produce bucketloads of condensation and where ever I have seen them used everything is soaking especially windows. Quite obviously the BSC chappies are not too keen on the idea of portable gas appliances on boats and that would be good enough for me. Pete
  19. I wouldn't use one on my boat, although people do use them in houses, after reading this:- http://www.cea.co.nz/files/Unflued_gas_heater_brochure_webversion.pdf which does say they produce carbon monoxide, amongst other gasses, although the article does stop short of saying bucketloads. What it will produce bucketloads of, over the course of a day, is condensation. The article also states that they are a fire risk but then so is any high source of heat. I would have thought also that quite apart from any other problems that will crop up with the BSC I think that they would have to be secured to the floor in the same way that solid fuel fires have to be. Pete
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  21. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT91tsQZDVE Just the last few seconds unless you want to watch them build the boat Pete
  22. Don't worry nothing will be improved anywhere up north. David Cameron has said that all the money will be allocated for the southern floods. In his own words "Money is no object."
  23. Hi This page might be useful to you. The AT oil that they refer to on that page is available from EBay. This is the one I used:- Red Line Synthetic ATF cos I couldn'r get the Foley one. http://www.foleyengines.com/resources/tech-tips/zfhurth-marine-transmissions-six-step-program The drain plug should be directly below the filler plug, or at least that is where it is on mine and whilst yours is a different model to mine the pictures on Google for the Hurth HBW 50 seem to bear that location out. Hope that helps Pete
  24. Hi Apologies if this has been posted elsewhere but if it has I couldn't find it. 2 guys got away with a suspended sentence and a fine after dumping tons of waste. Story here:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leeds-25933166 This is of interest to us because they had rented sheds from the C&RT and C&RT have had to spend 1.4 million pounds clearing the sheds of the dumped rubbish. It doesn't actually say that in that BBC report but local news has been reporting the C&RT spend. Pete
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