pete.i

Hi Kieron well I would except that I now have these pipes at home as I am, hopefully, trying to refurb another BMC 1.5 in my garage and I thought that maybe I could use them on that but they wont fit anything on that engine without adapting them. If the conundrum hasn't been settled by Tuesday I will take them in and ask Malcolm. Cheers Pete

Hi all Does anyone what these fuel lines are for? They were on my boat (Keb) when I bought it. I know they are fuel lines because it says so but all the fuel lines on my boat ate either 8mm or 10mm copper pipe. There is a flexi pipe that takes the fuel feed from the end of a 10mm pipe, that is connected to the fuel tank, up to the lift pump everything else is copper pipe. These are 6mm ends so they are not going to fit anything on my boat without an adapter but my question really is a general one i.e what would they be used for? Possibly if Leo sees this post he will know as he had the boat once and my assumption is that these pipes were on the boat when he had it. The other conundrum that I have is that I have five of these pipes so whatever they are for it would seem to a belt/braces/bit of string/knicker elastic situation. Anyway as I say I know they are fuel lines because it says so on them but where would they be used? http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140524_185644.jpg http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u492/pete-i1/20140524_185644.jpg Cheers Pete

The problem with white silcone (why white anyway it will be hidden) anyway the problem with silicon is that the stuff youi buy these days is pretty much junk in comparison to what used to be available. Now I know I'm going to get flamed for saying that because, well just because. I think the E.U. ? got their hands on the formula. Silicon is sort of okay for nice domestic in the house type jobs but on a boat where the enviroment tends to be a lot harsher and there are lots and lots of vibration I think I would tend to use a marine adhesive such as Sikaflex. Massively more expensive than plain ole silcone I know but thats because it has "marine" in front of the name. The other problem that I have found with silicon and UPVC is that silicon doesn't actually stick very well to smooth UPVC. You need to rough the surface up on the side that is going to be stuck down. Stikaflex, on the other hand, will stick, almost, anything to anything. Pete Oh for the info of the potential flamers. I have just fitted out someone's bathroom and the problems with silicone that I have mentioned above were exactly the same problems I had. I eventually ripped everything out and started again but I will admit that I am no professional boat fitter.

But but Mr Leo Sir you had oil lamps on a boat you once owned and very good they are too. They don't smell, at least not that I have noticed, and they keep the mozzies away. I don't get black soot on the ceiling or on the soot arrester that is on the bracket that holds the lamps. I do use low smell paraffin and I do trim the wicks every time I use the lamps. I do not think I would be happy using candles on board to be honest. To much risk of them falling over. Pete

If it ticks all the boxes then it, probably, is worth the risk. If you are going to buy any boat then, IMO, a hull survey at least is a bare minimum. Also even if a boat has been blacked recently there is no guarantee that the blacking isn't covering some abject horror. So whatever you do a survey is an absolute must and if the survey is not good then walk away. Of course if the boat doesn't tick any or only a few of your boxes then it, probably, isn't worth it. Peter

Dunno about pressure relief valves or anything like that but it is, more or less, exactly what my BMC 1.5 does and has done for the last four years that I have had my boat. Don't forget that these are old engines. My oil pressure gauge is not an electric one so I suppose it accurately reflects the actual pressure as opposed to an electronic gauge that will take a finite time to register a change, at least that is the way I see it. Also the oil pressure will fluctuate with engine revs and as the oil and the engine get hot. As I say mine has done that since I have had the boat and according to the manual the pressure can be anything between 15 lbf/in squared (cant do the little 2 above the in without faffing about) and 50lbf/in squared. I have absolutely no idea what that means but as long as my gauge says it somewhere between those levels then I don't worry about it although no doubt someone will come up and tell me that I should worry about it but life is too short. Pete

Hi I'm not sure this is feasible with your stove but I have a Villager Puffin (or Puffin Villager whichever way round it is) and when this happened to mine I drilled the old nuts and bolts out and used 10 mm nuts and bolts to replace the old ones. My glass is held in by four small copper plates on each edge of the glass which are retained by the nuts and bolts and the copper plates had also virtually corroded away. I replaced those with small steel retainers that I cut from those repair plates sold in DIY stores. That fix has been working now for 4 years and if I have to replace the glass and I find that the nuts and bolts have seized again I will just drill them out again. Pete

Hi again all. Errm right just revisited this post and saw oldbulldog's post and RLWP's reply. Yes I still have the gearbox. There are no guarantees with it though. I have absolutely no idea how good or bad it is. Either one of you can have it. If Richard (cos he had first dibs on it) says you can have it that is fine by me oldbulldog. Although you can have the gearbox for nout you will need to collect it or pay to courier it to you. Pm me if you still want it oldbulldog I wont get rid of it P

Mine does. I have a Hurth HBW 100 and there is a cast ally box that is bolted to the flat side of the gearbox that the raw water passes through on its way to the engine cooling system. it's not an oil cooler in the "normal" sense it draws heat away from the whole gearbox which in turn cools the oil cos Hurths like to run cool I'm told. http://s1070.photobucket.com/user/pete-i1/embed/slideshow/"></iframe> Pete HHMM dunno why some of my pictures show and others do not oh well.

I have just bought one for my BMC 1.5 and it cost me £7:50p from my local motor factors. That didn't come with a gasket and I thought that was cheap. I knew I should have looked on EBay. Pete

Well the bit where the thin pipe joins the fat pipe, which is what I called the Y shaped bit, is the same as yours. My exhaust pipe, the fat pipe, is a different shape, My bends in that pipe are different to accommodate the different way that my pipe exists my engine bay.

There isn't anything clever inside mine. It's where the (in my case) raw water from the canal that is pumped into the heat exchanger to cool the engine coolant is pumped back out into the canal via the engine exhaust pipe. it's just an elbow but needs to be of a specific shape to connect into your particular engine mounting configuration. Pete Edited to add Mine goes up from the exhaust manifold yours exits to the right of your engine looking at your picture. So mine would be a different shape to yours. I think that there wouldn't be a standard fitting for that part and it is fabricated when the engine is marinised for a particular boat that is why Mike had to have one specially made when he owned my boat (I assume) and if I ever need one I would have to go and get one made up or use various bits of pipe and couplings to make one up which, as you rightly point out, is not a preferred way of doing it.

Hi Mike if you mean the Y shaped (kinda sorta) metal junction where the exhaust and raw water cooling water get together (mixed) before exiting the boat via the exhaust into the cut then yes it is still going strong. I would have called that a mixer elbow for the want of a better term but I wouldn't know it's correct name. I think if I was going to replace that I would have one fabricated as you did. Pete

Hi Most of the bits I needed I got from here:- http://www.acorncanvas.com/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=1015831 Pete

Yes I have heard it's not a good idea to use that stuff too often but, as you say, no-one says what too often is. I have never had to use it on my BMC but I did use it once on a Seagull outboard that I have. Anyway hope your engine problems get solved soon cos the cruising season is upon us. Pete

Hi I don't have a JP3 I have a BMC 1.5. But after changing my fuel filter I had the same problem. If you think about it when you change the fuel filter that will introduce a lot of air into the system. Also until the filter is absolutely saturated with fuel some air will still be there to circulate through the intake side of the fuel system. What I found with mine was that for the first few times of starting I would have trouble. A quick bleed on the rotary fuel pump would clear it and then the engine would be fine until the next time. This situation continued for a while until, I assume, all the air bled through and now it starts fine every time. As I have stated a BMC is not a JP3 but they would both suffer from air in the fuel system. It doesn't need much air to stop it running properly and especially when the engine is cold which is when most diesels are hardest to start. I would also check that the heater plug connections haven't been disturbed (assuming a JP3 has heaters) as that will also cause starting problems when cold. Pete

EERR yes I did. Thanks for that Grace & Favour Pete

Hi Yep just do it no need for flushing it's just more mess to get rid of. The BMC 1.5 should take 4.7 liters / 8.25 pints including whats in the oil filter so yours is a bit low if that is all you got out, although to be honest most if not all BMCs burn oil when they are running and if you have one of those brass oil extractor type pumps they don't get it all out anyway IMO. A much better plan is to use an electric or Pelham type pump and put a thin pipe down the dipstick hole. But others will tell you different. Also if you have run your engine to warm the oil up so making it easier to pump out then a good lot of the oil will be up in the engine so wont get pumped out. My BMC 1.5 throws at least a liter out of the rear oil seal as well if I put the full 4.7 liters in so I usually only put about 3.5 liters in initially then run the engine for a short while and after letting it settle check the oil again and if the level is below the halfway mark top it up. Pete The manual is here with everything you need to know specs wise for that engine. http://the-norfolk-broads.co.uk/downloads/bmc1500L-diesel-workshop-manual.pdf

I think it's with the dipstick screwed out according tp the manual here. http://www.nathape.com/res/Logoundanderes/hurth_hb_manualowner.pdf Pete

Yeah you would be saying that if it was your boat they smashed into the side of then you found that their insurance didn't cover them for the damage done. But then, obviously that wouldn't concern the likes of you. Pete

Hi I think you should contact your insurance company and ask them where you stand if your boat becomes damaged, the other boat becomes damaged or someone else's boat becomes damaged. Also where would stand with respect to any injury's to you them or someone else. I think there is a lot to think about and a lot to discuss with your insurance company before embarking on this exercise. Pete Yeah okay that's good advice from Bizzard but I would still think long and hard and be discussing the ramifications with your insurance company.