Blacking

[Jacqmar]

This will seem a silly question, but as novice boaters I will ask anyway!!

Our first boat, 8 years old, and we had the blacking done last November. We have only been out 3 or 4 times since then and we have noticed that the blacking seems to be flaking off above the water line. As I say we are not experienced boaters but not too bad in the boat handling so not all due to contact with the lock gates!

Really disappointed as expected it to last a bit longer than a few months seeing the cost of having it done!Perhaps we are being too fussy!

Your comments appreciated!

 

Jackie

[mayalld]

This will seem a silly question, but as novice boaters I will ask anyway!!

Our first boat, 8 years old, and we had the blacking done last November. We have only been out 3 or 4 times since then and we have noticed that the blacking seems to be flaking off above the water line. As I say we are not experienced boaters but not too bad in the boat handling so not all due to contact with the lock gates!

Really disappointed as expected it to last a bit longer than a few months seeing the cost of having it done!Perhaps we are being too fussy!

Your comments appreciated!

 

Jackie

 

It shouldn't be flaking off.

 

Could be poor preparation, could be inappropriate materials.

 

I'd go back to whoever did the job, and ask them to sort it.

 

Were put for blacking soon, and I'll be doing the job myself, that way I know it's been done right (plus it will be cheaper)

[Breals]

Ever since I had mine done it has been coming off in big flakes, leaving smooth metallic-pink primer underneath (no rust). It has stuck better to the rustier metal on the waterline. I don't think its properly done.

[DHutch]

It shouldnt flake.

- Our paint is 15 years old, reblacked about every 4 years, and it doesnt flake.

- Occationly obvously you scrap bits off (although usuall only to the zinc primer) but i should flake, it should be too soft and well stuck for that.

 

 

Daniel

[steveh]

It shouldnt flake.

- Our paint is 15 years old, reblacked about every 4 years, and it doesnt flake.

- Occationly obvously you scrap bits off (although usuall only to the zinc primer) but i should flake, it should be too soft and well stuck for that.

Daniel

 

 

Would you re black the bits you've scrapped off now and again? ie from between the first rubber strake and above the water line?

[Gary Peacock]

We made a decision last year to go back mainly to more standard types of blacking after having problems over and over again with the more expensive flavours. Looking at a lot of the more expensive stuff it definitely came down to good marketing but when it failed it was always blamed on application.

Now once maybe, but repeated problems brought us to the conclusion that the stuff although it was more expensive and came emblazoned with a multinational organisation's name on the tins was no better or in some cases evidently worse than the cheap alternatives.

 

Generally if you do have problems application would be the suspect but there are rumours in the trade about one of the popular products being profitable to sell but rubbish to use!

Edited May 9, 2007 by Gary Peacock

[Timleech]

Ever since I had mine done it has been coming off in big flakes, leaving smooth metallic-pink primer underneath (no rust). It has stuck better to the rustier metal on the waterline. I don't think its properly done.

 

It's not usual to prime under blacking. Unless you use one of the special primers intended for the job (and maybe even sometimes if you do?), the blacking *will* tend to flake away from the primer.

 

Tim

[Breals]

Thanks Tim. I suspected that it might be more to do with the qualities of the primer rather than the blacking itself. While it's nice to see that the pink primer is intact and completely rust free (apart from some bits at the waterline where ice has scraped it off) it looks unsightly.

 

Would you recommend shotblasting (and maybe applying an epoxy-type blacking)?

[DHutch]

Would you re black the bits you've scrapped off now and again? ie from between the first rubber strake and above the water line?

No, we dont both.

- For a kick off, its so very rair for it to do down to the steel, other than on the strakes, its almost irrelvent from that point of view, and secondly, its just the blacking, its not ment to look perfect.

 

When we dry docked this year, after four years of heavy crusing, There where about four areas down to the steel on the whole of the sides of the boat, Mainly on the chine, each no bigger than about 4inches long inch wide.

- What was down to steel was brighten up with an angle grinder and painted with red blast primer.

- Then that as anywhere just down to the red was painted with a coat of zinc high build primer.

- Then a coat of blacking over thoughs bits. And two full coats over everywhere. Same on the bottom.

 

 

Then the cabinsides get exactly the same, only less often (8yrs ish), and the paint is diffrent (twopart).

 

 

Daniel

[Jacqmar]

Thanks for all your replies. Nice to know, in your experience, we are right to be concerned.

Our marina have agreed to take the boat out of the water and have a look, so hopefully we can get this resolved and learn some lessons!

Thanks again

Jackie

[DHutch]

Yeah.

 

Also, its worth mentioning at this point that our boat was dry shot blasted to bright steel when new, with the primmer being applied as the blasting was in process, within half an hour of the blasting.

- If your paint is totally foobar'ed, and/or if the mill scale is still on the hull. This may be your best option.

- Get it blasted back to bright steel, and then get some two part blast primer on quick sticks, followed by zinc/alu primer and your choice of blacking.

 

 

Daniel

[Timleech]

Thanks Tim. I suspected that it might be more to do with the qualities of the primer rather than the blacking itself. While it's nice to see that the pink primer is intact and completely rust free (apart from some bits at the waterline where ice has scraped it off) it looks unsightly.

 

Would you recommend shotblasting (and maybe applying an epoxy-type blacking)?

 

I wouldn't recommend shot(grit)blasting *unless* you're going to use a 2-pack afterwards.

It's a good option, but expensive and not many people offer it (I don't).

It really needs a dedicated site with proper screening etc.

 

Tim

[John Orentas]

Where do you lot get your boats grit blasted, my local dry dock allowed someone to do it once that was about 20 years ago and he is still sweeping up. Don't try to get too sophisticated with this bottom painting business, a high pressure hot wash is all you need if the old paint does not come off with that it isn't going to fall off on it's own so just paint over it. I have always found old fashioned bitumastic as good as anything.

[DHutch]

I beleave they will do it for you at Tarleton down the rufford branch of the L&L.

- They said they would do emilyanne if we every want her taken back to steel again, should it ever come to that point.

 

 

Daniel

[Breals]

JL Pinder's do it at Tardebigge. Costs an absolute bomb ('bout £1400 with the spoxy blacking) but allegedly lasts much longer. Only interested in the option because the black seems positively repelled by my hull.

[BORNJOYFUL]

[.

 

- my partner today talked to another boatee who said he wished he had first blacked his hull at least 5 times.

 

i thought this excessive- is there any merit in it

 

what is the normal amount that you all agre eon out there in the forum

 

also any particular paint no gimmicks? thanks tania