Calorifier - pipe leak

[zimmer4me]

Hi

I have a small leak in the join of my rubber pipe work to the calorifier where the jubilee clips have been used.

I have already taken apart cleaned up and re-newed the clips when the leak was greater and am now left with a tiny dribble that appears after the engine has cooled.

I have put some newspaper uder the area so as to get a good idea as to how much and its not usually very wet. more damp but enough to want to cure.

Can I use Radweld ? I confess to not knowing how it all works but I assume that the hot water passed from the engine is coming and out via the rubber hoses and the "clean water" is in and out of the grey plastic pipes.

 

What do you reckon on radweld or something else ?

cheers

JK

[stuart]

I would be tempted to replace the rubber hoses and clips just to be on the safe side.

 

I personally wouldnt use radweld or similar. Theres no reason for the rubber hose to leak unless theres a loose connection or a hole!

[Amicus]

Is there enough hose to chop a couple of inches off the end and re-make the joint?

[steveh]

There is a slight chance you have over tighten the clip and pinch the hose. I would replace the hose and clips

[bottle]

I agree with all of the above. Hoses get tired, perish, over time.

For a leak to start where there was not one before points towards old hoses and I would definitely change them.

It is surprising how little a hose clip, "Jublilee" is a trade name, has to be tightened to make a god join.

[zimmer4me]

Is there enough hose to chop a couple of inches off the end and re-make the joint?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Yes there was and I did that already . Might just relace the hose if it gets worse cos it did not appear to be pinched on re fitting thanks to all anyway

JK

[Alastair]

You have to be very careful when putting this sort of hose on. Make sure you push it on, don't waggle it on. A slight twisting is ok, but if you push it side-to-side then the hose will deform. No amount of jubilee clip tightening will then seal it.

[Alan Saunders]

You have to be very careful when putting this sort of hose on.  Make sure you push it on, don't waggle it on.  A slight twisting is ok, but if you push it side-to-side then the hose will deform.  No amount of jubilee clip tightening will then seal it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Conversely, if the hose is so loose on the fitting that there is no need to waggle or twist it then you are unlikely to get a good seal. A lubricant, e.g. washing-up liquid, helps. It is also possible to warm and pre-stretch the hose end with a suitable tool. If the hose is loose on the fitting I usually tighten the clip until I cannot easily rotate the hose by hand.

 

If you are fitting the hose to a copper pipe then it is likely that you have distorted the pipe. A hose should be fitted to a proper hose union - solid brass with several ridges or a bulge to obtain the seal; the clip is then only necessary to prevent the hose from blowing off under pressure. Otherwise, soldering a straight 'Yorkshire' fitting over the pipe will give a tighter fit, more rigidity and two sealing bulges.

 

Ensure that the fitting is clean with no corrosion, hard water deposits or deep scratches. As a temporary fix you could smear the fitting with plumber's white jointing compound but this may adversely affect the hose. Perhaps a non-hardening jointing compound, even silicon sealant would be better.

 

My calorifier to engine connections are in 15mm plastic Hep2o connected to adaptors screwed on to the BSP threaded calorifier connections. No rubber hose, no clips, no leaks for 18 years so far; longer lasting than the rubber hoses on my car. I have a notion that the manufacturer would not recommend this application!

 

The leak should be greatest when the engine is has warmed up, not when it is cooling. Perhaps the leak is so small that the fluid is evaporating when hot? Are you absolutely certain that the water is not seeping down, e.g. from the pressure relief valve, and just happens to drip off at this point? Sod's law says you have fixed one problem and uncovered another!

 

Alan

[David Schweizer]

An Alternativwe suggestion - You do not say how long or what diameter the pipe coming out of the calorifier is, but if it is a standard 22mm, or 15mm pipe and is at leas 2.5mm long, why not try using a Hep20 fitting and connect this to the rubber pipe. Better still replace the rubber pipe with Hep20 or copper pipe.