Deck Paint

[blackrose]

I recently painted my bow deck with a Teamac product called Suregrip anti-slip deck paint http://www.teamac.co.uk/product-detail.aspx?productID=13

 

As it says in the product details it contains coarse aggregates and dries to a hard anti-slip finish. Trouble is although the finish may be anti-slip, the paint won't key to the primer! I've had to take it up once when it wouldn't go off after Teamac told me I'd painted it on too thick. "Did you follow the coverage guide?" they asked? Well, 6-10 metres/litre doesn't really mean much to me while I'm painting it on with a brush, but the second time I painted a small test area as thinly as I could - so thinly in fact that the aggregates were not in evidence in some areas, but I thought a second coat would put this right.

 

Anyway, even after 4 days I can move the paint on this thinly painted test area by pushing hard with my fingernail! Before anyone asks I have primed the area properly with a Teamac primer.

 

I've now given up with this paint - it definately doesn't do what it says on the tin and moreover it's just not up to the job. Does anyone have any recommendations on GOOD non-slip deck paints or would you just stick to old fashioned sand? The thing that I've heard about sand is that the topcoat can wear off which then leaves a path for water to penetrate.

Edited April 30, 2007 by blackrose

[John Orentas]

Industrial floor paint is the best stuff, we had a surplus when we had the factory floor done so nicked some of that. There are two types air drying and the twin pack, I have found from experience they don't like to be mixed. I found air drying the best and least fussy, I seem to get 4/5 years out of one application. There is no manufacturers name on the tin but I am sure it is easily available.

 

For places without the heavy use, International deck paint is the best, good for 6 years with light usage, leaves a good mat finish so looks good too. Don't fiddle about with the sand and paint method, OK for gang-planks but thats about it, yes it does cause rusting and it's a pig to get off.

Edited April 30, 2007 by John Orentas

[KenK]

I recently painted my bow deck with a Teamac product called Suregrip anti-slip deck paint http://www.teamac.co.uk/product-detail.aspx?productID=13

 

As it says in the product details it contains coarse aggregates and dries to a hard anti-slip finish. Trouble is although the finish may be anti-slip, the paint won't key to the primer! I've had to take it up once when it wouldn't go off after Teamac told me I'd painted it on too thick. "Did you follow the coverage guide?" they asked? Well, 6-10 metres/litre doesn't really mean much to me while I'm painting it on with a brush, but the second time I painted a small test area as thinly as I could - so thinly in fact that the aggregates were not in evidence in some areas, but I thought a second coat would put this right.

 

Anyway, even after 4 days I can move the paint on this thinly painted test area by pushing hard with my fingernail! Before anyone asks I have primed the area properly with a Teamac primer.

 

I've now given up with this paint - it definately doesn't do what it says on the tin and moreover it's just not up to the job. Does anyone have any recommendations on GOOD non-slip deck paints or would you just stick to old fashioned sand? The thing that I've heard about sand is that the topcoat can wear off which then leaves a path for water to penetrate.

 

This may be the stuff my front deck was painted with, I cleaned it with a power washer and all the paint lifted, fortunately nowhere else. One coating I've seen advertised is Protectakote (www.protectakote.co.uk) I've not tried it yet but asking around the marina a couple of people gave it a good recomendation. It should be good it's certainly not cheap.

 

Ken

[DHutch]

Our walkways/foredeck/roof are just done with the same twopart polyuerthene geloppy we use for all of the rest of the boat.

- On boats with very narrow, round edged, gunnels then some anti-slip gritted stuff has got to be a good idea. But largely i dont thing its really nessary.

 

The back deck, which gets much more wear, is nominally painted with blue internation deck gloss or whatever. However in practice its down to the EpoxyZinc anywhere anyone ever walks.

 

 

Daniel

[blackrose]

For places without the heavy use, International deck paint is the best, good for 6 years with light usage, leaves a good mat finish so looks good too.

 

Is this International Interdeck? http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs...72-c1f6e7eeeb9f

[lymmranger]

Use "Bird Grit" (bottom of bird cage stuff) for gunnells

 

Costs around £1 a box does job at least twice!

[blackrose]

Use "Bird Grit" (bottom of bird cage stuff) for gunnells

 

Costs around £1 a box does job at least twice!

 

The only problem with that is that the paint on top of the grit is soon worn off.

 

Has anyone used the International non-slip additive that comes in sachets and you mix into paint? Any good?

Edited April 30, 2007 by blackrose

[Phil Speight]

The only problem with that is that the paint on top of the grit is soon worn off.

 

Has anyone used the International non-slip additive that comes in sachets and you mix into paint? Any good?

The anti-slip granules work perfectly well . Believe me , there is no need for any DIY painter to ask this sort of question. International ( who are our main competitor so I need do them no favours ) wouldn`t market the stuff if it wasn`t any good . Whatever you buy , if it carries a well known brand name , will be perfectly fit for purpose if it`s used properly.

Both International Interdeck and our own Craftmaster Anti-Slip Deck Enamel will give a strong textured finish that is more subtle in appearance than others. If you want to "sand" the deck , yes- use sand from a pet shop . Cover wet finish with it ( finish - not primer or undercoat , they should be already there ). Let it dry , sweep it off and then put two finish coats over what`s left.

Otherwise a plain hard wearing finish like our Raddle or an industrial floor paint , or , since any deck paint is ultimately sacrificial to a greater or lesser degree the cheapest red oxide finish you can find and re-do it fairly regularly.Just beware glossy finishes that can be slippery when wet.

Cheers

Phil

Edited May 1, 2007 by Phil Speight

[blackrose]

The anti-slip granules work perfectly well . Believe me , there is no need for any DIY painter to ask this sort of question. International ( who are our main competitor so I need do them no favours ) wouldn`t market the stuff if it wasn`t any good . Whatever you buy , if it carries a well known brand name , will be perfectly fit for purpose if it`s used properly.

Both International Interdeck and our own Craftmaster Anti-Slip Deck Enamel will give a strong textured finish that is more subtle in appearance than others. If you want to "sand" the deck , yes- use sand from a pet shop . Cover wet finish with it ( finish - not primer or undercoat , they should be already there ). Let it dry , sweep it off and then put two finish coats over what`s left.

Otherwise a plain hard wearing finish like our Raddle or an industrial floor paint , or , since any deck paint is ultimately sacrificial to a greater or lesser degree the cheapest red oxide finish you can find and re-do it fairly regularly.Just beware glossy finishes that can be slippery when wet.

Cheers

Phil

 

Thanks Phil, after my problems with Suregrip I'm obviously being too careful - fed up with spending time painting and then having to strip it all off.

[elessina]

Is this International Interdeck? http://www.force4.co.uk/ProductDetails/mcs...72-c1f6e7eeeb9f

 

We have this (International Interdeck). Still very good after 3 years, on salt water river, I see no reason why it should not last a few more years. Only complaint is that when the sun is out it atracts the heat and is to hot to walk on barefoot - but that is more to do with colour (grey) than type, but I note that you can buy it in different colours.

 

Ian