Shoreline 12v Fridge flashing light problem

[Trousers1000]

Thanks guys.

 

The main fuse switch panel is say 1 metre from the batteries.

Then the cable from the fused switch to the fridge is, as I've said, prob 7 metres.

Will it be sufficient to only replace the cabling from the switch to the fridge ( relaxing the other cabling too would be a right bugger of a job).

[OldGoat]

If the existing setup is wired throughout with domestic 2.5mm T&E - which looks 'par for the course' as indicated above, then NO. Do the job properly and get it right for any future additions.

 

Just 'cos it's a pain to do isn't really a good reason to not to do it.....

[Trousers1000]

No

The boat is not wired with 2.5mm T&E

 

The only reason I asked about using this was because I have a roll in the car.

 

So, back to my previous question .....will it be ok to run the 10mm cable from the output side of the fused switch panel?

[Tony Brooks]

Thanks guys.

 

The main fuse switch panel is say 1 metre from the batteries.

Then the cable from the fused switch to the fridge is, as I've said, prob 7 metres.

Will it be sufficient to only replace the cabling from the switch to the fridge ( relaxing the other cabling too would be a right bugger of a job).

 

And what is the conductor cross sectional area of the cable from battery to fuse panel (both pos & neg)? That cable must be at least 8 sq mm on your figures as should the cable running to the fridge. However the first cable needs to be a fair bit larger because it also has to carry the domestic loads. Much better to treat the fridge wiring as a totally separate circuit and wire from the master switch, via a fuse to the fridge (I use a 40 amp double pole domestic switch with both contacts in parallel as an actual fridge switch). Then take a similar sized negative back to the common negative ground point or the domestic battery negative.

 

Several people have told you 10 sq mm CSA cable and that is good advice.

[Trousers1000]

Hi Tony

Thanks again. Think I will buy a roll of the 10mm cabling. connect up and wait for fridge to stop working due to flashing led.

Then disconnect the feed to the fridge and temporarily connect direct from fridge to batteries and see wha happens.

I'm working on the basis that if the fridge then starts working, this pretty much proves the issues are voltage drop due to insufficient cable cross sectional area.

 

On an off topic, if ever you need any advise re life jackets, design of, approvals, definition clarifications,etc......just let me know as I design and make them and also represent the UK at international level on the same subject matter.

Hope that doesn't sound too pompous or such like....just wanted to explain why i would be in a position to offer some helpful advise if ever needed.

Cheers.

[Tony Brooks]

Hi Tony

Thanks again. Think I will buy a roll of the 10mm cabling. connect up and wait for fridge to stop working due to flashing led.

Then disconnect the feed to the fridge and temporarily connect direct from fridge to batteries and see wha happens.

I'm working on the basis that if the fridge then starts working, this pretty much proves the issues are voltage drop due to insufficient cable cross sectional area.

 

On an off topic, if ever you need any advise re life jackets, design of, approvals, definition clarifications,etc......just let me know as I design and make them and also represent the UK at international level on the same subject matter.

Hope that doesn't sound too pompous or such like....just wanted to explain why i would be in a position to offer some helpful advise if ever needed.

Cheers.

 

That sounds like a good plan but you need to do the same for the negative otherwise you could still get voltdrop on the negative cable.

[Arnot]

Unfortunately we still don't seem to know how far away from the battery this fridge is or what thickness the cable is so any comment on this must be guesswork. However, the symptoms do seem to point to problems in the supply side.

 

Just a couple of ideas based on my experiences with fussy fridges...

 

One is to check the fuse for the fridge. Sometimes with age and damp, the connections at the ends of the fuse increase their resistance. This is difficult to check without good instrumentation, knowledge and experience but the good news is that it is easy and cheap to eliminate as a possibility. Just change the fuse... Of course it's not so easy if you have circuit breakers, these are popular but can cause problems such as this.

 

Another is a bit more obscure. I note the use of a solar controller and suspect it is a PWM type. In a few instances I have seen these slowly reduce the electrolyte levels in the battery to a point where the capacity falls significantly. Have you checked your battery levels? If they are very low, this will cause the voltage to sag prematurely and cause the problem you report.

 

If this has occurred then consider replacing the controller with something like the Victron blue power mppt unit. I have cured this problem by fitting this unit three times and at the same time got a useful increase in the solar panel charge rate.

 

Hope this helps...

 

Arnot