Key for 5/16" Drain Cock

[MtB]

The washer may be stuck to the seat, but it has been there for more than 30 years, I supspect that it might also have something to do with the fact that the boiler casing gets very hot, and the drain cock is only inches away fromn the burner

 

 

Err yes, just like most of them...

 

I'm not getting your objection to just scrapping the embrittled washer from the seat and fitting a new one. I do it on an almost daily basis. Very simple and fixes the problem you describe.

 

MtB

[MtB]

P.S. Swerving off-topic for a sec, draining and refilling the system is never a great idea if it can be avoided, as the calcium in the new water gets deposited on the inside faces of the boiler heat exchanger. I guess you drain it often enough to have noticed the dodgy operation of the drain cock for frost protection. Better to add antifreeze in my personal opinion. Apologies for my string of assumptions if way off the mark!

[David Schweizer]

 

Err yes, just like most of them...

 

I'm not getting your objection to just scrapping the embrittled washer from the seat and fitting a new one. I do it on an almost daily basis. Very simple and fixes the problem you describe.

 

MtB

 

 

P.S. Swerving off-topic for a sec, draining and refilling the system is never a great idea if it can be avoided, as the calcium in the new water gets deposited on the inside faces of the boiler heat exchanger. I guess you drain it often enough to have noticed the dodgy operation of the drain cock for frost protection. Better to add antifreeze in my personal opinion. Apologies for my string of assumptions if way off the mark!

 

Assumptions permitted Mike, perhaps I should explain a bt more. The system on our boat is a little unconventioal in as much as we only have a single coil calorifier and the water in the central heating system and boiler is the same water as that which is circulating through the engine - that is a lot of water.

 

I have only completely drained down twice in the last 18 years and have always refilled with a strong antifreeze mixture, but as you know antifreeze whilst retaining it's antifreeze qualities, looses it's rust inhibitng ability over the years, so I decided to add some Morris's Ankersol to the coolant this year rather than completely drain down. Ankersol has a very thick consistency, and I decided that it would be bettter to dilute it in some of the existing coolant rather than risk it becoming a blob of sticky stuff to clog up the water jacket etc. That is why I had to drain off a couple of gallons in order to use it to mix with the Ankesol and then re-introducing it to the engine/heating system.

 

That having been done, I ran the engine for a couple of hours, and after allowing it to cool, drained off some of the coolant, to check that the mixing had been successful and was circulating. It had mixed well so the drained off coolant was pourd back into the Bowman expansion tank, and the radiatord were bled. The heating is now protected for a few more years before I completely drain down and re-fill with new mixture.

 

Draining down has always been a pain because there is no drain cock on the engine, and most of the coolant has to be drained from the boiler. Only a comparitiveley small quantity can be removed with one opening of the draincock which is a somewhat inaccessibe position, so finding a spanner which can be used like a screwdriver will make this process less tiresome, hence my request for suggestions.

 

When I next drain down completely i will fit a replacement washer, as suggested. I assume they can be obtained from any plumbers merchant.

 

Sorry about the essay.

Edited January 9, 2015 by David Schweizer

[MtB]

 

 

 

Assumptions permitted Mike,

 

<snip>

 

Draining down has always been a pain because there is no drain cock on the engine, and most of the coolant has to be drained from the boiler. Only a comparitiveley small quantity can be removed with one opening of the draincock which is a somewhat inaccessibe position, so finding a spanner which can be used like a screwdriver will make this process less tiresome, hence my request for suggestions.

 

When I next drain down completely i will fit a replacement washer, as suggested. I assume they can be obtained from any plumbers merchant.

 

Sorry about the essay.

 

I see!

 

I have never seen a 'screwdriver format' tool that fits the 8mm square on them. There are 'Y' and 'X' format tools around that fit (supposedly), one branch of which could be sawn off and silver soldered or brazed onto a screwdriver to make one.

 

But as the whole design of these drain cocks is appalling I'd be inclined to unscrew the whole thing from the boiler next time you drain down completely and fit a gate valve or proper hose union drain cock.

 

Something like this for example:

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-Lever-Hose-Union-Bib-Cock-/261270614309?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3cd4f13125

 

No messing about with tools at all, then!

 

MtB

[David Schweizer]

 

I see!

 

I have never seen a 'screwdriver format' tool that fits the 8mm square on them. There are 'Y' and 'X' format tools around that fit (supposedly), one branch of which could be sawn off and silver soldered or brazed onto a screwdriver to make one.

 

But as the whole design of these drain cocks is appalling I'd be inclined to unscrew the whole thing from the boiler next time you drain down completely and fit a gate valve or proper hose union drain cock.

 

Something like this for example:

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-Lever-Hose-Union-Bib-Cock-/261270614309?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3cd4f13125

 

No messing about with tools at all, then!

 

MtB

 

Yes I agree Mike. In fact that is what have already done with the calorifier drain cock . However, I am somewhat unenthusiastic about draining the whole system, just to fit a new drain cock on the boiler, although if I close down the radiators, and isolate the boiler from the calorifier, engine and keel tank, I may be able to drain just the pipeweork and boiler (there is an expansion tank in the pipework, so the pipes won't collapse under vacuum pressure!!)

 

Not a job for freezing cold conditions though, it will have to wait until spring.

Edited January 9, 2015 by David Schweizer

[Pennine]

I have just measured my services cabinet key and can confirm one socket is 5/16",

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/services-cabinet-key/16428

[MtB]

I have just measured my services cabinet key and can confirm one socket is 5/16",

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/services-cabinet-key/16428

 

Funnily enough I saw the brass version of than in the boiler spares merchant yesterday and checked it thinking of David, and yes it would do the job well. The brass one will be stronger than the 'white metal' version and would be needed if he decided to cut the leg off and braze it to a screwdriver to get the tool he wants.

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plumbing-tools-by-rothenberger-4-way-radiator-services-cabinet-key/84379

 

 

 

 

Yes I agree Mike. In fact that is what have already done with the calorifier drain cock . However, I am somewhat unenthusiastic about draining the whole system, just to fit a new drain cock on the boiler, although if I close down the radiators, and isolate the boiler from the calorifier, engine and keel tank, I may be able to drain just the pipeweork and boiler (there is an expansion tank in the pipework, so the pipes won't collapse under vacuum pressure!!)

 

Not a job for freezing cold conditions though, it will have to wait until spring.

 

 

It's easy enough to change a drain cock live actually. Takes just 3 minutes and a bit of nerve. I do it a couple of times a week. I'll do yours if you like next time I'm around your way! (Assuming I can get to the boiler, given what you say about restricted access.)

 

Another approach is to put rubber bungs in the cold feed and open vent. Then the water (mostly) stays in the system anyway.

 

 

MtB

[David Schweizer]

I have just measured my services cabinet key and can confirm one socket is 5/16",

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/services-cabinet-key/16428

 

Thanks for that, I will get one when I am next in Screwfix

 

Funnily enough I saw the brass version of than in the boiler spares merchant yesterday and checked it thinking of David, and yes it would do the job well. The brass one will be stronger than the 'white metal' version and would be needed if he decided to cut the leg off and braze it to a screwdriver to get the tool he wants.

 

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plumbing-tools-by-rothenberger-4-way-radiator-services-cabinet-key/84379

 

 

Looking at both of them the brass one will probably be better, with a bit of luck I can saw off the side legs and use an allen key in the socket opposite it to turn it. I only need it for rapid opening and closing, not tightening.

Edited January 10, 2015 by David Schweizer

[matty40s]

 

 

Another approach is to put rubber bungs in the cold feed and open vent. Then the water (mostly) stays in the system anyway.

 

I use this method when taking the Eberspastard out. I find the new fangled wine "corks" are ideal size.

[David Schweizer]

 

 

Another approach is to put rubber bungs in the cold feed and open vent. Then the water (mostly) stays in the system anyway.

 

 

MtB

 

I use this method when taking the Eberspastard out. I find the new fangled wine "corks" are ideal size

 

Just one problem with that advice, the boiler does not have a cold feed. The water supplty to the Ellis Heatmaster on our boat is Tee'd off from the circuit between the engine and the radiators. The best I can do is to isolate the engine supply and close down the radiators, which will probably do one of two things:- either drain the radiatoe pipework, or create a vacuum in the pipework.

 

You have to remember that ours is an old boat, built by someone who had a reputation for an inovative and often unorthodox approach to installation design (which works!!)

 

But don't worry, armed with information and advice provided in this thread, I hve both a short term and long term solution to my original question. Thanks to everyone for their help, and keeping on topic - you can deviate now!!

Edited January 10, 2015 by David Schweizer

[MtB]

 

Thanks to everyone for their help, and keeping on topic - you can deviate now!!

 

 

It's all CRT's fault really...

 

 

MtB