starting problem, isolator switch?

[Tony Brooks]

If you get it into your mind to strip it take care. I THINK there may be some ball beings associated with the pinion that drop out very easily and I seem to recall the contacts SirN spoke about can be a bit difficult to adjust. I might be confusing the Co-axial starters with Axial ones but still think twice about doing much more than inspect the brushes.

[TaffyRon]

Just spoke to the mechanic who took the starter away to test, he insists they tested it and its fine, it cant BE anything else, ive replaced the isolator, checked all wires, fuses, flywheel, switches, you press the ignition button and the starter just clicks once

[smileypete]

IF it always starts OK when the jump pack is used directly on the starter terminals, that does tend to suggest the starter itself is OK.

 

Maybe first try again with the jump pack across the starter terminals, just to check it still starts OK (sanity check!)

 

Next move the negative clip of the jump pack onto the start batt negative, and check it still works, to rule out the return path from engine to start batt.

 

Then move the positive clip of the jump pack to the starter batt positive terminal, and check it still works. This will rule out the feed from start batt to starter, including the isolator connections.

 

Finally, remove the jump pack clips from the start batt, and check it still works. This will rule out the start batt itself and batt terminals.

 

At some point in the above process the starter may stop working and so give an idea where the problem lies. If the jump pack clips have exposed metal it's be good to cover it with duct tape to help prevent inadvertent shorting.

 

If all else fails, a knowledgeable boating friend or neighbour with some good eleccy expertise with 12V may be able to diagnose it OK, there must be someone around.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited December 4, 2014 by smileypete

[TaffyRon]

Good post pete, thanks, will try in the morrow and return

[Sir Nibble]

There are loads of these things still about and they are still produced under the prestolite label as the s115. Yes there are ball bearings, and spring loaded garter segments and all sorts of other astonishing clockwork. Meanwhile, it sounds like a volt drop problem to me. How has everything else been checked? By eye or with an instrument?

[TaffyRon]

Problem appears solved, found a guy at a garage who got rather excited about my starter motor, he seems to know his stuff says it needs rewinding and says he could repair it but would cost more than the recon one ive been offered, so 190 quid here I come.

 

thanks for all the input