CaptainJacks Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hello can anyone shed any light on how I would test to see if a converter is galvanically isolated, so the input negative has no contact with the output negative? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kae Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Multimeter set to check continuity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Or, if you don't have a multimeter, a light bulb from input positive to output negative (if it's isolated the bulb won't light) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Or, if you don't have a multimeter, a light bulb from input positive to output negative (if it's isolated the bulb won't light) Low voltage dc light bulb and battery, please Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Low voltage dc light bulb and battery, please Richard Agreed low voltage bulb (12v if the unit has a 12v input) What's a dc light bulb? I was assuming that the input is already connected to the boat's battery so only the light bulb would need to be connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainJacks Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks. I have a multimeter but at what points would I test its a closed unit with a male connector that plugs into a cigar type socket? How would I resolve the problem if the test fails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smileypete Posted September 11, 2014 Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Why do you want isolated? Any link to what you have? cheers, Pete. ~smpt~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyLady Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) Thanks. I have a multimeter but at what points would I test its a closed unit with a male connector that plugs into a cigar type socket? How would I resolve the problem if the test fails? 1. Plug in the converter 2. Test from either side of the output plug, with your multi-meter set to 12V+ (e.g. to 20V) to another part of your boat electrics. 3. If that shows 0V, retest with the meter set to 'continuity'. If that shows no continuity, there is isolation. Having said that, may I ask why you care? I have at least 3 converters (2 phones and a laptop - and soon to to have a dc-dc converter for an Aldi 15V rechargeable vac - why I'm reading this thread) and in every case, the item has a plastic casing, so it won't hurt if it touched the boat hull. I don't care if the neg., or even the pos. is shared with the boat supply's. If a short like that is your worry, just make sure the output from the converter is plugged in, so not available to short, before you plug the converter into the boat supply. 'Galvanic isolators' tackle a completely different problem - galvanic hull corrosion when you share a mains supply with other boats in, for instance, a marina. Roger Edited September 17, 2014 by MyLady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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