MyLady

I think I've cracked it, simply a loop of stainless multi-strand wire, held shut with those compression swages

Thanks for that, but remember these panels tilt towards the sun, so their mid point is about 6" from the deck and one or other edge is twice that. Which edge depends on where the boat is lying that day. and both ends of the bolt (i.e. head and nut) are accessible. I accept that total theft-proofing is impossible but want to defeat those carrying only a Swiss Army Knife

I have a 30A Tracer, that I've just had to replace because I disconnected things wrongly, however if you read & follow the instructions it works fine and will run the fridge and water etc. pumps plus keep 2 phones and a computer charged from March to September without running the engine at all or using any other charger (2 x 165W solar panels Voc 42.5V, but will handle 3 of those).\ http://www.bimblesolar.com/offgrid/mppt/Tracer3215BN What you have to do is make sure you match the panels & the charger - as long as you stay under 150 volts (e.g. 3 x 42.5V panels - in series) you're safe and sound! (My comments relate to our 12V system which allows standard car bits like the chargers to be used. If you can handle a 24V supply the tracer is even better value.) Plan the whole system carefully, don't just add bits at random. You don't need to buy everything at once but know exactly where you are going! All the best ... ... ...

Hi, Last time we left Milady moored to a towpath one of our solar panels got stolen - they're only fastened on by screw knobs to the triangle mounting plates that let us tilt them to and fro. They are safe in a marina now, but we want to go out again... How do we fasten the remaining two on so they are still there when we leave her out again? Can we buy some wire strops and if so how do we fasten those to the panels and the boat? Are there some tamper-proof bolts and what are they called? Any other suggestions welcome! TIA,

Ours is at the opposite end to the outside: like you I thought that would be best, unfortunately that puts it right next to the fridge! We've replaced the stove with a Boatman with a back-boiler to heat the water and that acts as a heat-sink so we're no longer heating the fridge as much. My point is that this isn't a single issue problem... Roger

Just had a Boatman fitted with back-boiler. We had some problems with the flow (needed a new pump) but now it happily drives 2 radiators and hot water in the calorifier. It also keeps the saloon nicely warm - and is fully controllable. Recommended! Roger

Sorry not to get back to you sooner, but yes, it is repeatable - several times over the last week, including just now (1:53 Sat, 17th). I don't understand you first question, but it was to the Equipment forum, (re Lancs Marine not responding about a solar panel of mine John has, about an alternative to taking legal action, but I've now contacted my solicitor, so the query is now redundant...) I'd much prefer that John did my work, but the agreement we had was that it would be done, "before Winter" and it's too late for that now! I don't know if anyone else has the same problem with the forums. A happy and prosperous new year to you (and all forum contributors), Roger

Greenie. Linux is free (except for the internet link which isn't trivial for a mobile connection) to download and update. More, lots of distributions (means versions) have discs that allow you to run them without installing to your hard disk, then install it if you like this distro. That means you can "try before you buy", and when you do buy, it's still free. And so are almost all the programs! Not that you want it but DTP s/w, costs 500 -2k for Mac or Windows, but costs nothing for Scribus (which is capable of professional publishing, including all print-preparation) Similarly for all the free favourites like Firefox and Thunderbird (which run, almost identically on linux and 'doze) and LibreOffice, which is a superior product to M$ Office that reads (& writes) M$ formats as well as its native, smaller, formats. And the GIMP, which is just as good as PhotoShop. And ... and ... I could go on far longer than you'd want to read! Once you've got used to the small differences, you'll never want to go back to the endless problems and expense of Microsoft or Apple products. Roger

I'm having trouble in opening a new topic in "Equipment" - I get: ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Forbidden You don't have permission to access /forums/index.php on this server. Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. WebServerX Server at www.canalworld.net Port 80 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ed to add timestamp: Tue 13 Jan 2015 01:33:42 GMT

Remember that most trucks are 24V. Quite a lot are 'liveaboards' in that many truck routes last a week, and foreign routes can be significantly longer. I won't claim that washing machines or vacs are common on trucks, but entertainment systems (TVs, radios, cd players etc.) and small cooking systems are not rare. Chances are, your engine was originally developed for a truck - diesels for cars have only fairly recently become common. So, look up your local truck dealer, then go 24V! Roger

Thanks one and all for the info - I know much more now than when I started this thread!

Hi all, We have lots of 230V sockets on Milady, but hardly use them, but only 2 12V sockets (of the cigar lighter variety), which we do use... Those cigar lighter sockets are, IMHO, only just fit for purpose: the slightest pull on the cord disengages them; and one of the two has just failed (erosion of the centre terminal). Is there any alternative type of plug/socket that is electrically safe for over 10A, but much more mechanically robust? I'd think of the old round-pin 15Amp plugs, but they are relatively huge; the 2Amp round-pin standard is a better size, but I assume those are called "2Amp" for a reason! I recall from my disco days other types of connector but would prefer something that would pass BSS inspection. Help... Roger

Hi Matt, With the old fashioned, car battery chargers, they relied on the presence of a battery to pull down the charger peak votage to a nominal 12V: without a battery they turned in ~17V (peak vs RMS from crude rectification). I can't test the off-load voltage given by the charger for my Lenovo lap-top because my DVM doesn't provide the right signal, but are you SURE the charger won't provide too many volts with no battery in place? Wouldn't it be safer just to pull the charge plug when the battery is fully charged? Roger "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing!"

Hi, Has anyone managed to contact John Rushton of Lancashire Marine lately? We've been trying to get in touch about some work he's doing for us on Milady, but haven't heard from him since the 8th of October. We've tried phoning, texting and emailing with no success. Can anyone help? Roger

Get Matty to install bedazzled LEDs. It didn't cost much (compared with the boat; license; insurance; etc. etc.) and altered our power balance from 2 days cruising without external charge flattening the battery bank to unlimited life. Fluorecents (sp?) are better than filament bulbs, but LEDs are best! (But get "warm white")

The circuit board has arrived. I need to add a fuse and wire it in, but not back on board yet. Will report back. Further to other replies/questions/reservations: the cleaner does work quite well: dirt & dust that never before was completely cleaned does get sucked up; so far it isn't a good solution, because, to avoid flattening the battery bank (marginal effect, on top of all other load) we've had to take it home to charge, with total cleaning time when back on the boat limited to 15 mins from a charge. With this c-board we hope to charge it on board. An oddity is that when the charge light indicates fully charged, switching the mains supply off, then immediately on again leads to several hours more charging before the light indicates full again. My guess is that the wall-wart is too primitive, but it could be a high rate of self-discharge. I hope that is a function of having to take the whole kit and caboodle home to a mains supply, aiming to hit 100% SoC ready for the next visit to the boat... Once we can viably recharge on board, reaching 100% will no longer be an aim, enough to do some more cleaning will suffice because we can recharge straight away. DoD and battery life will remain a concern (no idea what the battery technology is), but at a price of 40 quid, plus 4 for the charger, we can afford to take that risk! In the meantime we can keep Milady cleaner than any hand brush can achieve... Roger