Oil change (?)

[ROBDEN]

Good morning everyone.

 

Thinking of changing my oil....or should I say type of oil?

 

There seems to be some good deals around at the moment on oil.

 

My engine is a Vetus 4.17.

 

I've been using 10w 40 mineral or part synthetic oil and even a mixture of the two.

 

Now thinking of changing to 5w 30 full synthetic oil.

 

Any advice/opinions?

 

Thanks in advance. Rob....

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

i asked Vetus about this for the similar M415 engine in my boat. They said to "use a good quality oil that won't hurt your pocket, whether mineral, semi, or fully synth."

 

On the subject of oil change interval, they insisted that 100hrs is the correct interval, though did say that many owners change the oil at 150 hrs.

 

I have stayed with mineral, but suspect if you move up to synth that you should stay with it? From articles that I have read, it appears that many semi-synths. are little different than mineral anyway, though I am not an authority of course.

[ROBDEN]

i asked Vetus about this for the similar M415 engine in my boat. They said to "use a good quality oil that won't hurt your pocket, whether mineral, semi, or fully synth."

 

On the subject of oil change interval, they insisted that 100hrs is the correct interval, though did say that many owners change the oil at 150 hrs.

 

I have stayed with mineral, but suspect if you move up to synth that you should stay with it? From articles that I have read, it appears that many semi-synths. are little different than mineral anyway, though I am not an authority of course.

 

Thanks Catweasel.

 

I've been changing the oil at 250 hour intervals but I am a cc’er so the engine does get run at varying speeds.

 

100 hours still seems a bit low to me even if only used for battery charging.

 

Vetus are only the maranisers. As you probably know the 4.14 and 4.17 are Mitsubishi ( SL4(?) ) units used in generators, air con plants and the like.

I can't see them getting their oil changed every 100 hours if ever at all.

 

I seem to remember reading somewhere that using a fully synthetic oil, the time between oil changes can be extended without any harmful effects.

 

Now I’m waiting to be shot down.

 

Rob...

[Guest]

Can't comment on the extended interval for synth, cause I don't know.

 

The guy who used to marinise the same engine for the Thornycroft unit told me 200hrs was OK, and highly recommended Baldwin filters (B1402). I have used Blueprint filters too. I usually go for 150 hrs these days because we are moving most of the summer. When we tended to use at weekend only, I did stick to 100hrs most times. I always put fresh oil in when winterising, but put the cheapest available in, as it only does a couple of hours until spring, when I put better stuff back in. I have had good service from Asda's own mineral oil (Mobil I am told) and Comma mineral. I used these in my Yanmar too.

 

Should add that I rarely "battery charge" in neutral.

Edited July 15, 2014 by Guest

[Richard10002]

I use Morris Golden in a 4.14. Cost isn't really an issue at about £25 for 5 litres. I change it once a year like my car.

[Guest]

I use Morris Golden in a 4.14. Cost isn't really an issue at about £25 for 5 litres. I change it once a year like my car.

Just out of curiosity, do you use pattern filters, or Vetus items? Cheers.

[ROBDEN]

I use Morris Golden in a 4.14. Cost isn't really an issue at about £25 for 5 litres. I change it once a year like my car.

Hi Richard.

 

How many hours is that?

I run anywhere between 1000-1500 hours a year, depending on where we are going.

The cost of oil and filters 4, 5 or 6 times a year does can wear on the bank balance.

[gazza]

Catweasal.

 

Use the Baldwin filters, we have a couple of gen sets with the sl4 engine that work hard for a living.

They are what I use, along with comma super diesel 15/40

 

http://www.commaoil.com/commercial-vehicles/products/view/251

 

Its api cf classification and is a very good well priced oil.

[ROBDEN]

Just out of curiosity, do you use pattern filters, or Vetus items? Cheers.

I use Baldwin filters.

 

In fact you put me on to them in a previous post.

[Guest]

Catweasal.

 

Use the Baldwin filters, we have a couple of gen sets with the sl4 engine that work hard for a living.

They are what I use, along with comma super diesel 15/40

 

http://www.commaoil.com/commercial-vehicles/products/view/251

 

Its api cf classification and is a very good well priced oil.

Cheers. That is exactly the oil that our local truck place sell, so on the strength of your experience, will stick with it. Already a Baldwin convert

I use Baldwin filters.

 

In fact you put me on to them in a previous post.

Sorry, gone a bit forgetful these days. I can remember exactly what I did 40 years ago though

[Guest]

Just got this which is the maintenance schedule for the Vetus base engine (Mitsubishi S4L)

 

The standard maintenance schedule is as below for the industrial engine type:

 

Every 50 service hours

Draining water from the fuel tank

（With water sedimenter, every 500 service hours or every 1 years） 8-1

Checking the air cleaner 8-1

 

First 50 service hours for new or

overhauled engine

Checking and cleaning solenoid fuel pump filter 8-2

Changing the engine oil and oil filter 8-3

Re-tighten bolts and nuts on engine *

 

First 100 service hours Checking and cleaning solenoid fuel pump filter 8-2

 

Every 250 service hours

Changing the engine oil and oil filter 8-3

Inspecting V-belt and adjusting belt tension 8-6

Checking and cleaning the radiator fins 8-6

 

Every 400 service hours Changing fuel filter (Cartridge type) 8-7

 

Every 500 service hours

Changing fuel filter element (Cock type) 8-8

Inspecting and adjusting valve clearance *

Cleaning fuel tank (Every 500 service hours or every 1 years) *

Checking glow plug *

Replacing solenoid fuel pump filter 8-8

 

Every 1000 service hours

Inspecting starters 8-9

Inspecting alternator 8-9

Re-tighten bolts and nuts on engine *

 

Every 1500 service hours Cleaning nozzle tip *

 

Every 3000 service hours Checking fuel injection nozzle *

 

Every 2 years Changing the coolant 8-10

As required

Cleaning, inspecting, and replacing the air cleaner element 8-12

Bleeding the fuel system 8-13

Draining water sedimenter 8-14

Checking the specific gravity of battery electrolyte 8-14

Edited July 15, 2014 by Guest

[gazza]

250 is the service interval on our gen sets. They run at 1500 rpm +/- 50 day in day out. When the steam boiler and compressors are fired up it makes it grunt!

Ours are turbocharged and as I said get a relatively hard life, excellent bit of kit, with nice easy one sided servicing.

 

We have a couple of old water boilers with perky 3.152 electropaks in them. Our install crews and residents of any street we are working much prefer the SL4 powered units :-)

 

That said, the Perkins kit has been very good as well, pretty old hat now though!

[OldGoat]

Synthetic oils were introduced because motor vehicles were increasingly using turbos and mineral oils couldn't cope with the high temperatures.

It's easier to make low viscosity oils using synthetic lubes and modern engines are made to closer tolerances nowadays, which need lower viscosity oils to be efficient. Mineral oils break down faster in use, whereas synthetics have a much longer operating life

 

Beta Marine - who have always prided themselves for their low smoke canal engines. say do NOT use synthetic oils in their Kubota engines.

If you don't mind your engine smoking a bit or are running gensets working hard so there's less risk of glazing bores.

 

The problem is that 15/40 is more difficult to find at a sensible price. OK if you're near a Morris outlet - so I go to a motor factor and buy it in 20 / 25 litre drums.

 

 

[gazza]

Synthetic oils were introduced because motor vehicles were increasingly using turbos and mineral oils couldn't cope with the high temperatures.

It's easier to make low viscosity oils using synthetic lubes and modern engines are made to closer tolerances nowadays, which need lower viscosity oils to be efficient. Mineral oils break down faster in use, whereas synthetics have a much longer operating life

 

Beta Marine - who have always prided themselves for their low smoke canal engines. say do NOT use synthetic oils in their Kubota engines.

If you don't mind your engine smoking a bit or are running gensets working hard so there's less risk of glazing bores.

 

The problem is that 15/40 is more difficult to find at a sensible price. OK if you're near a Morris outlet - so I go to a motor factor and buy it in 20 / 25 litre drums.

 

 

Use a decent motor factors. 15/40 is absolutely not hard to get hold of.failing that, Www.eurocarparts.co.uk or www.carparts4less.co.uk do home delivery and can be quite competitive.

[OldGoat]

Use a decent motor factors. 15/40 is absolutely not hard to get hold of.failing that, Www.eurocarparts.co.uk or www.carparts4less.co.uk do home delivery and can be quite competitive.

 

I do and they want silly money.

Returned to a previously used factor and they do 5 for the price of four in 5l cans - so they get my business.

 

Used to be able to buy it from Asda (more convenient0 - not any longer.....

 

But thanks for the suggestion!

[Richard10002]

Just out of curiosity, do you use pattern filters, or Vetus items? Cheers.

Mann in 11/12, Vetus 12/13, Mann at the moment, and a Baldwin in a few months.

[Richard10002]

Hi Richard.

 

How many hours is that?

I run anywhere between 1000-1500 hours a year, depending on where we are going.

The cost of oil and filters 4, 5 or 6 times a year does can wear on the bank balance.

 

I have done about 500 hours a year. My car service interval is 12,000 miles, but I only do about 8,000 miles a year. At an average of about 15mph, that's 533 hours. Not sure why a boat diesel should be much different to a car diesel, and at 13 years old, my warranty ended well before I owned the boat.

[Guest]

 

I do and they want silly money.

Returned to a previously used factor and they do 5 for the price of four in 5l cans - so they get my business.

 

Used to be able to buy it from Asda (more convenient0 - not any longer.....

 

But thanks for the suggestion!

I have noticed that my local Asda don't always have the mineral 15/40 of late. i have found Comma 15/40 to be easily available locally for (I think) 18 quid for 5 litres. A bit dearer than Asda's own but still not bad.

[gazza]

 

I do and they want silly money.

Returned to a previously used factor and they do 5 for the price of four in 5l cans - so they get my business.

 

Used to be able to buy it from Asda (more convenient0 - not any longer.....

 

But thanks for the suggestion!

No probs.

 

Every now and Again they do 30% off plus a free filter. A quick Google may yield a car/van etc fitment for your filter.also

worth checking for any online discount codes via Google.

 

I did a kad32 Volvo recently, if memory serves it used a Volvo 740 2.4 oil filter so that was a bonus!

 

I don't take the pee at work as we have fairly tight stock control :-(