12v timer

[bigcol]

Has anyone bought one of these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NARROW-BOAT-SOLAR-CARAVAN-CHICKEN-COOP-12V-12-VOLT-LCD-CLOCK-PROGRAMMER-TIMER-/110870710747?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item19d068c9db&nma=true&si=Uu68nhS6sHUtIM5HesRjkkJc%252BgE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

 

I have instructions are no that good

 

But it has 4 connections on the back, 2for input. Which I think is 12v in, and another 2 conectors for what you want to time, in this case deck lights, I've played around with this,mand although the power light comes on, pressing the auto override button lights don't come on, and if using timer still don't work.

 

Now I'm thinking. Cheap Chinese, get what you pay for, or is there something were doing wrong.

 

The lighting circuit works when the 2 wires are put on battery.

 

 

I've put this on because I believe lots of these are sold, and maybe I've done something silly

 

I appreciate any info re the above timer etc

 

Col

[Keeping Up]

may be the inbuild battery is of no battery

[bigcol]

may be the inbuild battery is of no battery

 

Hi there Allan, don't know what you mean, but the battery inside does work

And when I conect the power cables 1 red, 1 blk. The unit has power.

 

 

Col

[OldGoldy]

There is a lot of information on the 'net if you search Google for "CN101A"

[Keeping Up]

Hi there Allan, don't know what you mean, but the battery inside does work

And when I conect the power cables 1 red, 1 blk. The unit has power.

Col

I just cut-and-pasted from the eBay advert. Perhaps I should have added a smiley :-)

 

Actually it sounds to me as if it's faulty.

[NMEA]

I have used them as heater timers and they work well, I have a thought and hope it doesn't insult, the power connections are + & - as one would expect but the other two interrupt the feed to the load rather than provide it and the - is constant.

 

This may help

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6peve0fa1wU

Edited March 17, 2014 by NMEA

[cereal tiller]

may be the inbuild battery is of no battery

Your Mandaringlish rather Blurry good

 

I have a Willhi temp. controller and i cannot program it!

 

CT

Edited March 17, 2014 by cereal tiller

[Kwacker]

Is the timer a 2 pole, or single pole switch?

edit - crossed posts - from what NMEA has posted, it is single pole, ie +ve in, +ve load out.

Edited March 17, 2014 by Kwacker

[smileypete]

Your Mandaringlish rather Blurry good

 

I have a Willhi temp. controller and i cannot program it!

 

CT

 

Try a google for 'willhi pdf' as there's a few manuals floating around.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[cereal tiller]

 

Try a google for 'willhi pdf' as there's a few manuals floating around.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Thanks Pete

Have got the manual,still cannot do it!

Several others have tried,all retired with headaches!

 

I got it just to tell me when the Gas Fridge hot tube has cooled,which would sound an alarm.

 

The Fridge gets 230volt only when the engine is running or boat is on shoreline,fridge cuts in when batteries are above 13.2 volts

 

Wanted the alarm to remind me to switch to Gas when mooring up at the end of the day's cruise

 

CT

[smileypete]

Thanks Pete

Have got the manual,still cannot do it!

Several others have tried,all retired with headaches!

 

I got it just to tell me when the Gas Fridge hot tube has cooled,which would sound an alarm.

 

The Fridge gets 230volt only when the engine is running or boat is on shoreline,fridge cuts in when batteries are above 13.2 volts

 

Wanted the alarm to remind me to switch to Gas when mooring up at the end of the day's cruise

 

CT

 

For that I'd set the parameters as follows:

 

Heating mode H

Hysteresis 1°C

Minimum set limit -50°C

Maximum set limit 110°C

Temperature calibration 0

Delay time 0 mins

 

Then set the temperature to whatever you want it to be.

 

You might find it only samples temperature about once a minute, so after setting the temp the relay won't switch over until up to a minute has passed.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[cereal tiller]

 

For that I'd set the parameters as follows:

 

Heating mode H

Hysteresis 1°C

Minimum set limit -50°C

Maximum set limit 110°C

Temperature calibration 0

Delay time 0 mins

 

Then set the temperature to whatever you want it to be.

 

You might find it only samples temperature about once a minute, so after setting the temp the relay won't switch over until up to a minute has passed.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Thanks for the clues.

 

I would like the alarm to sound when the temperature at the probe drops below 45-50 C.

 

The remote probe is in the hot tube next to the flame tube,the running temp is 55 C

 

How is the alarm set?

 

CT

[Alan Saunders]

Has anyone bought one of these

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NARROW-BOAT-SOLAR-CARAVAN-CHICKEN-COOP-12V-12-VOLT-LCD-CLOCK-PROGRAMMER-TIMER-/110870710747?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item19d068c9db&nma=true&si=Uu68nhS6sHUtIM5HesRjkkJc%252BgE%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

 

I have instructions are no that good

 

But it has 4 connections on the back, 2for input. Which I think is 12v in, and another 2 conectors for what you want to time, in this case deck lights, I've played around with this,mand although the power light comes on, pressing the auto override button lights don't come on, and if using timer still don't work.

 

Now I'm thinking. Cheap Chinese, get what you pay for, or is there something were doing wrong.

 

The lighting circuit works when the 2 wires are put on battery.

 

 

I've put this on because I believe lots of these are sold, and maybe I've done something silly

 

I appreciate any info re the above timer etc

 

Col

As others have said 'Google Cn101A'. I did not find a specific document in good English or a simple diagram but, so far as I can determine:

• The same model number and instructions apply to both the 12V (AC/DC) and 120/240V versions.
• Any version may be used to switch any voltage so there is no internal link between the power supply and the contacts.

Ideally you should power the device via a 1A or 2A fuse and connect the contacts in series or parallel with the existing manual switch.

I would power up the switch and test its operation with only an ohmeter or independant battery powered test lamp across the terminals.

 

Maybe there should be evening courses in Chinglesh.

HTH, Alan

[Keeping Up]

I have used them as heater timers and they work well, I have a thought and hope it doesn't insult, the power connections are + & - as one would expect but the other two interrupt the feed to the load rather than provide it and the - is constant.

 

This may help

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6peve0fa1wU

 

This could indeed be the key point

[smileypete]

Thanks for the clues.

 

I would like the alarm to sound when the temperature at the probe drops below 45-50 C.

 

The remote probe is in the hot tube next to the flame tube,the running temp is 55 C

 

How is the alarm set?

 

CT

 

To adjust temperature press SET then up '^' or down 'v' then press SET again to exit.

 

Don't know which exact model you have but it's unlikely to have an alarm, probably will need to add a 12V beeper which is powered via the switching contact connections 1 and 2 at the back of the controller.

 

This is the manual I'm looking at:

 

http://www.al-electronic.com/image/PDF/willhi%20wh7016c%2012vdc%20%20user%20manual.pdf

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited March 17, 2014 by smileypete

[cereal tiller]

 

To adjust temperature press SET then up '^' or down 'v' then press SET again to exit.

 

Don't know which exact model you have but it's unlikely to have an alarm, probably will need to add a 12V beeper which is powered via the switching contact connections 1 and 2 at the back of the controller.

 

This is the manual I'm looking at:

 

http://www.al-electronic.com/image/PDF/willhi%20wh7016c%2012vdc%20%20user%20manual.pdf

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Model number WH7016E

does have an alarm,

Will not be using switching contacts

 

Just want the alarm to sound when less than 45C.

 

CT

[bigcol]

Many thanks for the posts

 

NMEA no insult at all, when it comes to tec stuff, children pic books are the way to go with me. I really do apreciate your advice

 

I've looked at the video, and now others I've got the unit with 4 terminals

 

2 on the left, no - or + signs, marked power in, 2 on the right with a sign of a switch That's it!!

 

So I put the 2 wires from the battery direct to these 2 terminals don't know what way round as no marking re + -

 

 

the 2 terminals on the left I put the 2 wires from the led lights again no marking as to + -

 

Red power light comes on but the manual button doesn't work, struggling to see the unit work switching on the lights

 

The unit cost me under a fiver

 

In a couple of vids some of these units have 5 terminals, or have seen some linking a wire from the power in terninals to the switching side

 

I thought it be simple, but I'm just that simple my self

 

I will be looking at google links this morning,

 

I'm thinking should there be a linking wire?

[Keeping Up]

Yes connect the 12v power to the power in terminals and check that the unit appears to do something.

Now try putting a link wire from the negative input terminal to one of the output terminals.

Then put the positive wire of your LED lamp to the positive input terminal.

Finally put the negative wire of your LED lamp to the other output terminal.

 

Does it now work?

[bigcol]

What can I say

 

Thank you Allan, and everyone who contributed to this post

Followed your last post instructions

 

Done and up and running!!!!! Yay!!!!!!!!!

 

The instructions that come with it were bloody useless

 

Whilst down in the engine bay, finished another job re another post I put in re bow thruster charging but will post there,just to make sure I done the right thing

 

Many thanks

 

Greenie to keeping up and NMEA

Edited March 18, 2014 by bigcol

[smileypete]

Model number WH7016E

does have an alarm,

Will not be using switching contacts

 

Just want the alarm to sound when less than 45C.

 

Looks like it has a high alarm which can be up to 15°C above setpoint, and a low alarm which can be up to 15°C below setpoint.

 

So you could set it to 60°C with the low alarm 15°C below, and the high alarm 15°C above. Trouble is the alarm would also go off if the temperature goes above 75°C.

 

This is the manual I found for the E model though it's not that clear and some google searching helped.

 

http://www.al-electronic.com/image/PDF/willhi%20wh7016e%20220vac%20user%20manual.pdf

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46976

 

Using the simpler WH7016D model with a separate 12V beeper controlled by the switching contacts could have been more straightforward.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[cereal tiller]

 

Looks like it has a high alarm which can be up to 15°C above setpoint, and a low alarm which can be up to 15°C below setpoint.

 

So you could set it to 60°C with the low alarm 15°C below, and the high alarm 15°C above. Trouble is the alarm would also go off if the temperature goes above 75°C.

 

This is the manual I found for the E model though it's not that clear and some google searching helped.

 

http://www.al-electronic.com/image/PDF/willhi%20wh7016e%20220vac%20user%20manual.pdf

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46976

 

Using the simpler WH7016D model with a separate 12V beeper controlled by the switching contacts could have been more straightforward.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Thanks Pete

I originally got it to check the fridge internal temperature,thought it might do the stackpipe job instead

 

Will obtain a simpler version

 

CT

[smileypete]

Or maybe just get a button/disc thermostat, the 'normally closed (NC)' type in the required temp:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=%28disc%2Cswitch%2Cbutton%29+thermostat&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited March 18, 2014 by smileypete