Colorifier

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

Would it be posible to fit two? because the one on the boat isn't big enough to fill the bath as full as I'd like..... and the door widths in the said boat arnt wide eonugh to fit one bigger one..... what do you think lads?

[Richard Bustens]

Hi Wyndy

I have a 100ltr one and that is 16'' diamiter they also make a 150ltr one that is 19'' i would have thought that they would go through the doors.

[John Orentas]

I can't see why not, probably best to pipe the engine water 'in series' i.e. flow through the first then the second. The hot water output connected in a similar way but 'opposite' to ensure you get the hottest water first.

[bottle]

Anything is possible, but you will need "balance" pipes to avoid airlocks in the tanks.

i.e. cold supply to one tank then from that tank to tank 2. So that tank 2 is supplied from tank 1.

Hot water take off from both tanks to a tee piece and then onto taps. this way you would only need to connect to one coil (inside tank) but as suggested before the two in series would be better. Heating the water to temperature of course would take longer.

 

Be careful of deep water in the bath we would not want you to drown.

[DHutch]

Could you not have one made up?

 

- then you could have it oval, which would fitt your doors better

 

 

daniel

[Richard Bustens]

I cant see how it can work with 2 as one will feed better than the other so the cold water will get into the pipes and mix cooling it down, if you take the output from one into the feed of the other again you will disturb the cold in the bottom of the tank

[Big COL]

I cant see how it can work with 2 as one will feed better than the other so the cold water will get into the pipes and mix cooling it down, if you take the output from one into the feed of the other again you will disturb the cold in the bottom of the tank

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Hi

Wyndy,Richard

 

This is a compromise. I would not be happy with the tanks piped in series If it was to supply a shower, as well as a bath, because as you say the temperature will change from hot to warm then back to hot then cold as you empty one tank through the other. To fill a bath only, if no shower is fitted it would then probably be OK.

To be safe and sure I would plumb them in parallel using an equalised cold feed and an equalised hot output this way the tanks will empty equally, or as near as dam it, without using pressure regulators on the cold feed.

[timboharticus]

I've been thinking about something similar.

 

I've just fitted a combi-boiler in my house and have a large redundant single coil calorifier.

 

My boat has an existing twin coil fed from stove and engine.

 

I have an idea of fitting the single coil unit in the bathroom fed from the stove, acting as a pre-heater to the twin coil unit.

 

One of the advantages would be the storage of heat from the stove in the large volume of heated water acting as a heater in the bathroom.

[bottle]

Hi

 

as per my last post.

 

The tanks would be plumbed in paralel. The coils plumbed in series.

 

If you have "balance pipes" the tanks will act as one. Normal convection will equalise the temperature.

 

I must make one adjustment to my previous only take hot water from tank two.

 

The tanks will require two "balance pipes" one at high level one at low level.

Bleed valves would enable the removal of air if necessary.

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

phew...... might rethink this and see if a bigger(longer one) can be made.....

(just because the lady loves a deep hot bath!)

 

that said, there's nothing worse than sat in a bath with 6 ins of water to keep you warm!

 

[Richard Bustens]

Wyndy

How much water do you need?

 

Bottle

In theory it will ballance out , and will do under resting , but as soon as your pump starts that will go out of the window, the water will take the path of least resistance and mix all over the place .

The only way 2 tanks will work is if they are identical with same lengths of pipe to and from each, with seporate pumps again identical, and a means of blocking off the ballance pipes when the pumps start.

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

Richard:

 

Its a domestic size bath, -so up to the overflow

 

and enough to keep topping up with hot water......

Edited January 26, 2005 by wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)

[Big COL]

Wyndy

How much water do you need?

 

Bottle

In theory it will ballance out , and will do under resting , but as soon as your pump starts that will go out of the window, the water will take the path of least resistance and mix all over the place .

The only way 2 tanks will work is if they are identical with same lengths of pipe to and from each, with seporate pumps again identical, and a means of blocking off the ballance pipes when the pumps start.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Richard/Bottle

 

You are making this far too complex. As I suggested in my previous post an equalised input and output does work.

[Richard Bustens]

Hi Big C

Yes that would work but how do you intend to get a equalized / balanced input and output,

 

Also it relies on there being the same amount of hot in both tanks.

 

Wyndy

I have a full size bath and also like a lot of water in it but not perhaps as much as you. also being on the large size it takes less water to fill than with a dainty ladylike yourself. I would have thought that a 100 ltr tank would fill the bath as you would have to put some cold in to get it down to temperature.

 

The other way would be to increase the amount of material in the bath reducing the amount of water required, so follow the old wartime recommendations " share a bath" if you can not find anyone to share with you , stick in a few bricks.

[rustyduck]

Wyndy, I assume you have a large main water tank, or are moored on top of a water point.

 

A standard domestic bath holds around 200 Ltrs, so you'll be filling up pretty frequently - still, if you need someone to scrub your back......

[Richard Bustens]

Bog off Rusty, i was hear first!!!!! get in line.

[DHutch]

Wyndy, I assume you have a large main water tank, or are moored on top of a water point.

 

Yeah, where on the moporing ontop of a waterpoint system. as our tank is 80l, and the bath is about 160!!

 

- but we do have have a good supply of hot water, as long as we have the cold to put in in the first place!!

 

danel

[dor]

All these balance pipes and things, double pumps, taps & valves, differential flow etc all seems a bit complicated to me.

 

I think there is one way which would be relatively simple, using two cylinders.

 

Take cylinder A & cylinder B

 

Firstly the coils: connect in series, i.e. engine to top of coil in A, output from bottom of coil in A to top of coil in B, output from bottom of B back to engine.

 

So A gets heated first, and will therefore be the hotter.

 

Now the water: From pump into bottom of cylinder B. Output of B into bottom of cylinder A. Output from top of A to taps.

 

This way, you will be drawing the hottest water first, from the top of A. This gets replaced by the warm water in B which is replaced by cold water from pump.

 

If the whole thing is running for long enough, A will be nearly as hot as the engine water so won't cool it; therefore it can use nearly all its heat to heat B. Eventually A & B will both contain very hot water, hopefully enough to submerge Wyndy.

 

Which I think is what John Sq. was saying in the first place.

Edited January 26, 2005 by dor

[wynd lass(nb.Black Pearl)]

hi again,

 

its a 200 gallon water tank , if i remember correctly.....and yes, i have a tap near the boat, because of the hot water situation at present i take a shower......but i bought a bubbly water thinggy which sits in the bottom of the bath, so you can have a whirlpool/airspar bath........except i cant at the mo! dang...... unlike the last boat, this one hasn't a jacuzzi on it (yet!)

[Richard Bustens]

that will work when tank a has hot water from top to bottom of the tank, if there is hot at the top of a and cold at the bottom which is normaly the case the hot leaving tank b and going into the bottom of tank a will mix together and ballance out the temp. so you will get the hot from tank a followed by the warm from the mixing of the cold from the bottom of a and the hot from tank b.

 

But with luck by then Wyndy will be squeeky clean.

[rustyduck]

Damn and blast that Richard, I suppose I'll just have to take a ticket.

 

You could try and dispense with the calorifier and put in a thermal store. That way you'll only heat the water you draw off, and would probably produce far more gallons of hot water for a given volume of tank than using a calorifier.

 

Now that's got me thinking.....

[Big COL]

Damn and blast that Richard, I suppose I'll just have to take a ticket.

 

You could try and dispense with the calorifier and put in a thermal store. That way you'll only heat the water you draw off, and would probably produce far more gallons of hot water for a given volume of tank than using a calorifier.

 

Now that's got me thinking.....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Rusty

 

Energy usage?

[rustyduck]

Sorry BigC,

 

A thermal store is like a storage heater that you might have in your house. You would heat up a block of concrete, wet sand, stones etc with coils from the engine/boiler etc as you in a normal calorifier. Then the cold input goes through lots more coils to extract the heat. It's very efficient as you only extract heat from it for the water your using and the thermal capacity of concrete is far higher than water.

 

Robert is your parents brother.

[Richard Bustens]

Or you could just put a gas ring under the tin bath.

[rustyduck]

Richard - I think it would need to be room sealed, but it would work.