Bubble stove engineer

[Ex- Member]

Our Bubble stove has just gone kaput, it seems some kind of failure in the Toby Valve, it seems as though the valve has completely failed and the 2 flame adjusting screws have dropped inside the valve enclosure. Really strange. It's 10 years old though so I suppose we should expect something to fail in that time. Just replaced the stove door rope as well.

 

Any stove engineers local to Devizes know about this particular stove. Do Harworth Heating have engineers who can service and repair these? They would probably be pricey and would prefer to give the job to someone local.

 

ETA

 

Corner Bubble Stove with backboiler and Toby valve. Supplied new 2004.

Edited January 12, 2014 by Julynian

[springy]

Would this help ?

 

http://www.euroheat.co.uk/ImgShare/1018646315TB115%20Toby%20Oil%20Control%20Valve%20Low%20Res.pdf

 

if nothing else it may give a clue as to whats happened

 

springy

[Ex- Member]

Would this help ?

 

http://www.euroheat.co.uk/ImgShare/1018646315TB115%20Toby%20Oil%20Control%20Valve%20Low%20Res.pdf

 

if nothing else it may give a clue as to whats happened

 

springy

 

Hi springy,

 

Thanks for the link

 

We actually found the same site just after posting, some really good photo's of the unit and description of faults. I didn't realise how easy it came apart so I've just spent the last hour taking it apart, I had over screwed one of the adjuster screws which dropped inside the casing.

 

I've just, "HOPEFULLY" Corrected that and fitted it all back together, although it took several attempts to do so, an internal gravity lever kept thwarting me, I sussed it in the end though. Dinner is ready we'll fire it up later. If it works it'll be another hour or so adjusting the high and low flame setting.

 

This unit needs a really good servicing though even If I do get it going later.

 

It bette

[jelunga]

 

Hi springy,

 

Thanks for the link

 

We actually found the same site just after posting, some really good photo's of the unit and description of faults. I didn't realise how easy it came apart so I've just spent the last hour taking it apart, I had over screwed one of the adjuster screws which dropped inside the casing.

 

I've just, "HOPEFULLY" Corrected that and fitted it all back together, although it took several attempts to do so, an internal gravity lever kept thwarting me, I sussed it in the end though. Dinner is ready we'll fire it up later. If it works it'll be another hour or so adjusting the high and low flame setting.

 

This unit needs a really good servicing though even If I do get it going later.

 

It bette

Hope you can fix it. We love ours. Simple relisble low tech.

Why diid you fiddle with it? Just like to know incase ours does the same. Factory settings are usually the best.

I guess you wanted ti lower the output on low. This is one of their bad points since any lower than factory low leads to yellow flame and coking up jn low wind conditions and being blown out in high gusty wind conditions.

But apart from this a good reliable stove. We have used only 10 litres over January so far although we have been away for 4 : days and turn it off at night.

[Ex- Member]

Hope you can fix it. We love ours. Simple relisble low tech.

Why diid you fiddle with it? Just like to know incase ours does the same. Factory settings are usually the best.

I guess you wanted ti lower the output on low. This is one of their bad points since any lower than factory low leads to yellow flame and coking up jn low wind conditions and being blown out in high gusty wind conditions.

But apart from this a good reliable stove. We have used only 10 litres over January so far although we have been away for 4 : days and turn it off at night.

 

Hi j

 

The old door rope needed replacing, the fire behaved differently so I was adjusting the flame settings, the stove with the old rope was clearly drawing air and causing Yellow flame, I completely mal adjusted the flame setting screws and then realised the rope was the culprit, on replacing the rope further adjustment were required the high flame screw ended up going right through the casing My fault entirely due to impatience/frustration.

 

I thought I completely fecked it, then found that website and it all looked pretty simple to put right, so I had a go.

 

All back together now, lit it again about 40 minutes ago, lovely Blue low and high flame now, all adjusted perfectly.

 

The stove overall has been fantastic, the slight problems I have had in the past were all due to lack of maintenance. I'm now going to give the whole thing a complete makeover. There's a stainless steel plate at the rear as well that's loose, it looks like some kind of heat guard to protect the Toby it's fixed on the Left side rear but loose on the right, just can't see a fixing screw.

 

Ref diesel we've had to buy £90 quids worth so far, and dipping the tank again today it seems about another 90 quids worth has been used. So from Early Nov til now about £180

 

I will say though, much of the time its been running, when it really could have been switched off. we're constantly opening the cratch and side doors to cool down, a bit wasteful I know but it saves having to keep lighting it

[jelunga]

 

Hi j

 

The old door rope needed replacing, the fire behaved differently so I was adjusting the flame settings, the stove with the old rope was clearly drawing air and causing Yellow flame, I completely mal adjusted the flame setting screws and then realised the rope was the culprit, on replacing the rope further adjustment were required the high flame screw ended up going right through the casing My fault entirely due to impatience/frustration.

 

I thought I completely fecked it, then found that website and it all looked pretty simple to put right, so I had a go.

 

All back together now, lit it again about 40 minutes ago, lovely Blue low and high flame now, all adjusted perfectly.

 

The stove overall has been fantastic, the slight problems I have had in the past were all due to lack of maintenance. I'm now going to give the whole thing a complete makeover. There's a stainless steel plate at the rear as well that's loose, it looks like some kind of heat guard to protect the Toby it's fixed on the Left side rear but loose on the right, just can't see a fixing screw.

 

Ref diesel we've had to buy £90 quids worth so far, and dipping the tank again today it seems about another 90 quids worth has been used. So from Early Nov til now about £180

 

I will say though, much of the time its been running, when it really could have been switched off. we're constantly opening the cratch and side doors to cool down, a bit wasteful I know but it saves having to keep lighting it

I think spec is 0.2 L per hour on low. We only light iurs wgen required using 1 - 2 eggcups of meths dependibg how cold it is. Far cleaner than firelighters or burning cold diesel.

Your fuel ckbsumption sounds ond hell of a lot. You must be well cooked by now.

[Ex- Member]

I think spec is 0.2 L per hour on low. We only light iurs wgen required using 1 - 2 eggcups of meths dependibg how cold it is. Far cleaner than firelighters or burning cold diesel.

Your fuel ckbsumption sounds ond hell of a lot. You must be well cooked by now.

 

Hi J

 

We've been running it 99% continuous on low, there have been quite a few days though we've switched off. Lynn keeps a diary, and I checked when you mentioned fuel consumption, and there's an error, when we started using the stove in Nov we had just over half a tank of diesel, it was quite warm early Nov and not on every day, we used it like that for 3 weeks then the coal boat topped us up which cost £90 to completely fill. So of course we didn't use all that £90 So from the first 90 quid we probably only used 20 30 quid possibly.

 

I remember I did a quite accurate consumption test and posted it on the forum a good year or so ago, and i'm sure i recall 0.18L per hour on low

 

I have to say it's been running better than ever now the rope is done. We had problems in the wind a couple of weeks ago, and I'm sure it was due to sucking air through the door rope. It was very windy today and little problem with the stove.

 

Another wee point. We fitted the door rope and was advised to close the door on a sheet of paper whilst the silicon heat glue dries for a couple of hours. They also suggested trying to slide the sheet of paper out from the door to check a tight fit all around, and to tighten in the door hinges appropriately.

 

The handle side of the door was tight but the hinged side the paper slipped out quite easily. I went to adjust the brass hinge lugs, and they wouldn't go in any further, I then sussed there was a ferule over the thread on each one. The only way I could tighten the hinge buts in was to remove ferule on each so it would screw in another turn. This worked nicely and nice and ended up with a nice tight fit.

 

I got this info off the net, glad I did as I didn't have a clue that's what was part of the process. I now have 2 ferules a couple of mm too long, they are Brass so I suppose just filing them down will make the lugs fit and look nice and neat again rather than a visible thread.

[mkn777er]

Sorry to jump onto this thread but I also have a Bubble diesel stove on my boat with back-boiler and I have had nothing but trouble with it in the year or so I have owned the boat. Difficult to get going, even harder to stop, poor flame control (in fact, no flame control), and poor heat output etc. etc. I had convinced myself that the Toby valve was faulty and contacted the manufacturers to ask if they would do a factory service and re-set. Not possible they say because the settings are done by Harworth Heating. However, they went on to say that the failure rate of the Toby valve is less than 0.002% and therefore unlikely to be the problem - more probable will be poor servicing.

 

The boat is only 8 years old but judging by the amount of carbon I recently got out of the pot, I suspect it has not been serviced since new. So, as soon as I get the time a thorough service will be done including the flues, door rope, Toby valve etc.

 

Can I just ask a question. In the excellent guide you refer to (I also have a copy) it cautions against allowing air into the system - how did you purge the valve after you re-fitted it?

 

I long for the day when I have to open the windows to let the heat out !!!!

[Ex- Member]

Sorry to jump onto this thread but I also have a Bubble diesel stove on my boat with back-boiler and I have had nothing but trouble with it in the year or so I have owned the boat. Difficult to get going, even harder to stop, poor flame control (in fact, no flame control), and poor heat output etc. etc. I had convinced myself that the Toby valve was faulty and contacted the manufacturers to ask if they would do a factory service and re-set. Not possible they say because the settings are done by Harworth Heating. However, they went on to say that the failure rate of the Toby valve is less than 0.002% and therefore unlikely to be the problem - more probable will be poor servicing.

 

The boat is only 8 years old but judging by the amount of carbon I recently got out of the pot, I suspect it has not been serviced since new. So, as soon as I get the time a thorough service will be done including the flues, door rope, Toby valve etc.

 

Can I just ask a question. In the excellent guide you refer to (I also have a copy) it cautions against allowing air into the system - how did you purge the valve after you re-fitted it?

 

I long for the day when I have to open the windows to let the heat out !!!!

 

Hi mkn

 

Bubble stoves have been seen as problematic, but I would say it is because of not being regularly serviced.

 

Worn/frayed door ropes need regular checking, there's a small air intake at the base with a flap inside, this flap must moveable. There's a de-scaler on the Left of stove at the bottom. This needs a small olive replacing annually, easy thing to overlook. The de scaler needs pulling and twisting to remove carbon build up daily.

 

Can I just ask a question. In the excellent guide you refer to (I also have a copy) it cautions against allowing air into the system - how did you purge the valve after you re-fitted it?

 

 

If you mean the Toby valve? It's gravity fed. Just turn the diesel tap and It will fill inside the float rises and delivers diesel to the combustion pot. I took the Toby valve apart last week, It's quite basic really, but if you remove the lid, the internal lever attached to the rear underside of the lid is tricky to get back in when replacing, you basically hold the lever up to the lid when replacing it.

 

What's difficult is getting the low and high flame adjustment correct. There's a step by step instruction for doing this on the Harworth heating site. It's a tedious job having to wait up to 2 minutes for a small adjustment so show a result in the combustion chamber, you do need to be patient. I do high flame first, the high flame screw is accessible when the knob is on high, the low flame is the same.

 

Just read up on it and tinker, you can master them, they work a treat when mastered

Edited January 16, 2014 by Julynian

[mkn777er]

Thanks for the input Julynian. I have read much on these forums about the pros and cons of diesel stoves, including the suggestion of dumping it in the cut and getting a solid fuel stove! That said, I can see that it is basically a very simple concept, and I am determined to get it running correctly. Even Harworth Heating very encouragingly tell me "you shouldn't be having those problems, sounds like it needs servicing".

 

I will update these fine pages as and when it happens!

[peterboat]

Thanks for the input Julynian. I have read much on these forums about the pros and cons of diesel stoves, including the suggestion of dumping it in the cut and getting a solid fuel stove! That said, I can see that it is basically a very simple concept, and I am determined to get it running correctly. Even Harworth Heating very encouragingly tell me "you shouldn't be having those problems, sounds like it needs servicing".

 

I will update these fine pages as and when it happens!

I have had 2 of these both have been very good both were backboiler models. The second stove which is now in my bedroom is better than my previous corner model but that is because it was brand new when I bought the boat so nobody had played with it!!! and that is what I suspect is the problem with most of these stove idle fingers

 

Peter

[springy]

<snip>

Can I just ask a question. In the excellent guide you refer to (I also have a copy) it cautions against allowing air into the system - how did you purge the valve after you re-fitted it?

 

<snip>

 

As has been said the valve only needs gravity, but depending on the route the feed pipe takes it is quite possible

to get an air lock in the feed pipe, particularly if there is relatively little fall over the length of the run.

 

Possible cures :- fill the tank - this may be sufficient to push the air through,

lightly pressurise tank (large hose tightly in filler neck, block vent & blow)

fit a small hose to the delivery end and suck (using a small pump if you have one)

 

springy

[Ex- Member]

 

As has been said the valve only needs gravity, but depending on the route the feed pipe takes it is quite possible

to get an air lock in the feed pipe, particularly if there is relatively little fall over the length of the run.

 

Possible cures :- fill the tank - this may be sufficient to push the air through,

lightly pressurise tank (large hose tightly in filler neck, block vent & blow)

fit a small hose to the delivery end and suck (using a small pump if you have one)

 

springy

 

I've never had to do it with our bubble stove diesel tanks, but on our main engine tank I made a fitting using a 15mm Brass elbow that screws directly in to the diesel tanks brass threaded vent hole, removing the vent first of course. There's also a f/t length of 15mm copper that is connected to the elbow, you can now pressurise the tank via the copper tube.

 

You could add on off valve too to maintain pressure for any reason. This fitting will of course fit any diesel tank with a brass air vent fitting which I recall is 12" BSP Really handy if suffering bad diesel feed anywhere.

Edited January 17, 2014 by Julynian