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Roland_65

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Hi all,

i bought a classic sailing boat with an Lister STW3 engine and a LH 150 reverse gear. Unfortunately it sticks sometimes in forward, so i decide to check the friction material of the clutch cone. To do so, i try to dismounting the reverse gear but it doesn't move off. Is it required to dismount the adaptor together with the reverse gear case?

Thanks,

regards, Roland

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First, take the reduction box off the back - it makes an awkward job a bit lighter

 

Next, drain the oil (if you haven't already)

 

Then, remove the box from the aluminium adapter, taking care not to bend the pump shaft

 

As an aside - an LH150 that sticks in forward may well be something to do with the hydraulics. Like any good, sea-going gearbox, when it fails it goes into forward. So, when the engine is stationary, the gearbox is in forward. Lose all the oil, the gearbox goes into forward. Oil pump fails - forward - you get the picture

 

Richard

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Hi Richard,

thanks for your reply.

I try to remove the reduction box first, but with the same result, it doesnt move. I think the sealing sticks very strongly. Maybe glue is used.

So far i understand you it is not required to temove the alu adaptor. I try to disconnect the reverse gear from his sealing using small hydraulic power, but without benefit. Maybe it makes sense to cut the sealing off.

I will have a look tomorrow.

regards, Roland

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Hi Richard,

thanks for your reply.

I try to remove the reduction box first, but with the same result, it doesnt move. I think the sealing sticks very strongly. Maybe glue is used.

So far i understand you it is not required to temove the alu adaptor. I try to disconnect the reverse gear from his sealing using small hydraulic power, but without benefit. Maybe it makes sense to cut the sealing off.

I will have a look tomorrow.

regards, Roland

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Hi all,

i bought a classic sailing boat with an Lister STW3 engine and a LH 150 reverse gear. Unfortunately it sticks sometimes in forward, so i decide to check the friction material of the clutch cone. To do so, i try to dismounting the reverse gear but it doesn't move off. Is it required to dismount the adaptor together with the reverse gear case?

Thanks,

regards, Roland

Hi Roland

 

I looked at an LH150 on a friend's narrowboat last year

 

it was doing exactly what yours is!

 

we carried out all the checks and adjustments,but the intermittent fault was still happening

 

The ''cure" for it was to change the oil in the gearbox 3 times,after doing so it has now behaved impeccably.

 

My reasoning was that as the oil (EP 90) was vegetable based it was absorbing moisture from it's vent,and the oil was slightly emulsified.

 

The water content was maybe causing slight corrosion and resulting stiction on the operating pistons and pressure control valve?

 

Anyhow,it is working well.

 

Hope this helps

 

CT

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Hi CT,

 

the clutch cone sticks always in forward, when we go for several hours forward or when we drive full power fwd, for short moment.

 

regards, Roland

Exactly what the aforementioned LH 150 was doing.,sometimes shifting forward-neutral-reverse cleanly and randomly staying in ahead

 

Try the oil changes first,if no good result at least the reversing gear will be a good deal cleaner should you need to overhaul it?

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Which type of oil was the successfully one?

 

Always when it sticks in fwd, it seems that the connection of clutch cone is fix and we have better propulsion.

As i recall the oil used was EP 90 gear oil,but check the handbook recommendations,my memory is not perfect.

 

After each oil change the engine was run each position on the control lever 20 or so times.

 

I had never seen one of these gearboxes before so all i could do was apply logic,oh, and 45 years marine engineering experience may have helped?

 

CT

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As i recall the oil used was EP 90 gear oil,but check the handbook recommendations,my memory is not perfect.

 

After each oil change the engine was run each position on the control lever 20 or so times.

 

I had never seen one of these gearboxes before so all i could do was apply logic,oh, and 45 years marine engineering experience may have helped?

 

CT

The Lister recommendation is to use SAE 80 for engine room temperatures up to 30 degrees C and SAE 90 above 30 degrees C.

The gearbox capacity is approx 1.2 litres (2 pints).

For flushing I have been advised to use diesel fuel oil and run the engine for 10 minutes (changing gear a few times). This worked well on my LH 150. Mine has a slight hydraulic whine in neutral and reverse until the oil has warmed up, but after 15 minutes it is quiet. I'm not sure if the pressure might be a little too high but as it works well I leave well alone.

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Which type of oil was the successfully one?

 

Always when it sticks in fwd, it seems that the connection of clutch cone is fix and we have better propulsion.

 

There are a couple of adjustments you can do on that box - the gap between the forward piston and the release arm, and the tension in the reverse band

 

Richard

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Now the gearbox is dismounted and on the way to my workbench. I still beleive it is a mechanical problem. The next days will hopefully show the reason for the defect.

Last season i change the oil ( EP 90) but without effect.

 

best wishes for next year

Roland

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  • 4 months later...

hello roland,

 

My name is Tristan and I'm looking for a (sailing)boat named Makke Beer. it used to be my grandparent's boat and I was wondering if you have it now. The Makke Beer was located in Turkey for about 5 years I think, after that it was bought by an Irishman 5 or 6 years ago. We hope to hear from you soon.

 

Greetings from The Netherlands

 

Tristan

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  • 1 month later...

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