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Propex heating unit - I think this is my choice....?


Sierra2

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Ok, I think this is what I'll be installing as my primary heat source on my cruiser.

 

http://www.propexheatsource.co.uk/heaters/hs2000e#tech

 

We will be living on board full time and I have three areas to heat over a 31ft boat, those being the Aft Cabin, Cockpit, living area/galley/wet room. As I mentioned previously, I have got issues with space fitting larger gas bottles on board. While I want to be able to be off grid and self sufficient I will have a mooring with shore power to start with so could do away from Gas unless needed when on the move (smaller bottles) and of course for cooking.

 

- Does any one use this, how expensive are these to run on 240v?

 

- Will I have to run it at the higher 2kw rating to get the heat for the entire boat?

 

The second issue is I won't be able to heat water for showering unless the engine has been run when away from shore power. What method could I use to complement this heating type when I'm cruising but moored up and haven't moved?.

 

 

Chaz

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We have a 2kw (diesel) heater on our 25ft cruiser and in the depths of winter it needs a helping hand to keep the boat warmed through and this is in a modern (ish) double skinned and well insulated coastal cruiser.

 

If i was you i would get the bigger version.

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Madame Cal.... we meet again :)

 

I can't see a larger 'E version' (Electric) listed, do you have a link you could share?

 

Are you running on 240 or gas on yours?

 

If I do need two separate units to heat the length of the boat, I'm back to square one in terms of cost as a CH boiler would be viable (apart from the lack of gas storage in my case....)

 

Chaz

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Hi ya,

I've never had a gas heater,My personal totally irrational view is I hate gas on boats,,& I have this niggle at the back of my head 'Condensation' don't know why !.but have come across a few on friends boats in my time.

On the face of it it seams a good,clean & cheap way of heating if my math is correct at approx 0.30p an hr. But if you are a liveaboard,with gas cooking as well, you will probably need (& therefore store on your boat,think BSSc) two large say 13kg Propane bottles, & then have a reliable steady supply of them available from a convenient local stockists probably at least 1 a week at a guess, Maybe 2 a week

n the depths of winter,if 2 units are fitted which you will probably need in my opinion. Have you done any calcs for current usage on cooking,then add the expected usage using the spec sheet for the gas heater ?.

Obviously running on electric when you can isn't so much a problem,if it can be managed,maintained & or replaced when cruising .

It does look the part I have to say. Let us know what its like when fitted.

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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It gives out about the same as any 2kw fan heater which in a centre cockpit boat isn't enough (in my opinion). The heat loss between the 2 cabins will be considerable and even the warm one might not be that warm, depending on insulation, glazing and ventilation. I know you're not planning to use gas too often but it would be the cheaper option, however, I'd take with a pinch of salt the 105 hours out of a 15kg gas cylinder I'd be suprised if you could get even a third of that in winter at best.

K

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I fitted a Propex blown air heater in my previous boat as a back up to the Mikuni. Firstly there is no condensation as combustion exhaust goes via a skin fitting to vent outside the boat and secondly the gas usage worked out to be close to the figures that Propex offer as a guide. Have to say though that I much prefered my Glembring drip feed diesel heater.

Phil

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Most people off grid have a solid fuel stove as their primary winter heating. A Morco gas water heater is a good way to heat water.

 

Propex shouldn't be too bad for supplementary and short term heat, 100hrs of 2kW from a 15kg cylinder seems about right.

 

Or fit a blown air diesel heater, dunno how much diesel costs these days on the river/canal but might work out a bit cheaper than Calor.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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I fitted a Propex blown air heater in my previous boat as a back up to the Mikuni. Firstly there is no condensation as combustion exhaust goes via a skin fitting to vent outside the boat and secondly the gas usage worked out to be close to the figures that Propex offer as a guide. Have to say though that I much prefered my Glembring drip feed diesel heater.

Phil

The OP may find it useful if you say what type,size & layout Phil.

I think gaz is approx £2 / kg

I pay 80p ltr for red.

So gaz appears to work out a cheaper running cost @ approx 30p / hr.for say 2kw heat. (So 15p ish kw)

Red usage for my Webesto 5kw works out @ approx 58p for 0.7 ltr / hr for say 4.5kw heat. (So 13p ish kw) all in all about the same.

Please note,ime worse @ math,than I am @ spelling !.

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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Airtop 2000 uses 0.25l/hr for 2kW so 20p/hr or 10p/kWh if paying 80p/l for red.

 

If a cheap source of kerosene/paraffin can be found it might be a bit cheaper still, but needs a separate tank.

 

Taylors heater might tick over nicely on a low setting, only do one cabin and bit less efficient though.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Sorry chaps I should have pointed out my pevious boat was 12ft X 40ft GRP cruiser and perhaps I should have said supplementry instead of backup. We had a Mikuni blown air at the front of the boat and it wasn't quite man enough to keep the stern comfortable so that's where the Propex went.

I had 2 seperate timer/stats one or each end of the boat,saloon at bows and bedroom at stern. We had 6 available and adjustable time sections on each timer so heat would come on prior to getting up, turn down when we went to work and on prior to our return. At night we found 13c suited us while asleep so had timer/stats set to match.

If you can make sense of this,well done.

Phil

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The smaller Heatsource (Propex) actually only outputs 1.9kw which is pitiful for a live aboard on a boat such as yours but even when compared to a 2kw Webasto for instance they are inferior in performance. Major differences being that the maximum duct length is 5m so will not reach the areas you require and the air volume is only 2/3rds of a comparable Miki, Webo or Eber, the only thing they have going for them is they are cheap. I have removed a few at customer request and replaced with diesel much to the customers liking.

Without actually measuring and having knowlege of the actual craft I would suggest that a 3.5 or 3.9kw would be more appropriate to your expectations.

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I also have a 31' grp cruiser with fore/aft cabins/w house and have the slightly smaller propex 1600 heater with 12v blower.

whilst I do not live aboard permanently & only have it on for a few hrs per day in the winter, it is not really adequate to heat the whole boat unless its running for a long period, ok if you close one vent (I have 2) and stay in one cabin. You may manage with the 2kw version if your boat is v well insulated, mine isnt!

Mine also takes about 5 minutes before it blows hot.

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Madame Cal.... we meet again :)

 

I can't see a larger 'E version' (Electric) listed, do you have a link you could share?

 

Are you running on 240 or gas on yours?

 

If I do need two separate units to heat the length of the boat, I'm back to square one in terms of cost as a CH boiler would be viable (apart from the lack of gas storage in my case....)

 

Chaz

Diesel!

Airtop 2000 uses 0.25l/hr for 2kW so 20p/hr or 10p/kWh if paying 80p/l for red.

 

If a cheap source of kerosene/paraffin can be found it might be a bit cheaper still, but needs a separate tank.

 

Taylors heater might tick over nicely on a low setting, only do one cabin and bit less efficient though.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

We usually work on ours using 0.25 litres per hour. It does claim it can use as little as 0.125 litres per hour but as the heater is marginal as to coping with heating our 25ft boat it is more often than not running flat out. It does eventually heat the boat through mind given time.

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If I do need two separate units to heat the length of the boat, I'm back to square one in terms of cost as a CH boiler would be viable (apart from the lack of gas storage in my case....)

 

Chaz

You do not need two units, you need one, properly specified and installed and it an't a heatsource (Propex) in either case for your live aboard needs, frankly if you have shore power you would be beter off with a couple of cheap fan haeters (shore supply wattage provided)

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I would suggest a 3kw(if you can find one it is now discontinued I believe) or more likely a 4kw diesel heater.

 

Yes people manage with much less but given the choice I would like to be comfortable rather than just managing.

 

If you are living aboard make it as comfortable as you can afford. 2kw isn't enough output. It is just on the limit of being enough for our modern double skinned thus reasonably insulated cruiser!

 

We may only use the boat four days a week but we do that whatever the weather. Trust me at -20 you want all the heat you can muster!

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If the OP is on shoreline at the moment, could be worth running a 1kW electric fan heater in each cabin for a good while, see how far it raises the indoor temperature above the outdoor temperature.

 

The temp rise for a 1kW heat source would give a basis to work out what size propane or diesel blown air heater would be needed for deep winter conditions.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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If the OP is on shoreline at the moment, could be worth running a 1kW electric fan heater in each cabin for a good while, see how far it raises the indoor temperature above the outdoor temperature.

 

The temp rise for a 1kW heat source would give a basis to work out what size propane or diesel blown air heater would be needed for deep winter conditions.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

That's a good idea,

It would give an indication. I was forgetting it was two cabin areas.

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That's a good idea,

It would give an indication. I was forgetting it was two cabin areas.

 

On my boat 500W raises the inside temp by 10°C, I can pretty accurately predict the outside temperature :)

 

Would be worth the OP checking for insulation behind the linings, if there's not much some carefully installed multifoil and/or celotex could pay itself back quickly, likewise acrylic secondary glazing, Wickes do thin sheets of acrylic.

 

Depending on heat losses, during deep winter it might be best to just heat one cabin at a time and abandon the other for a while. :help:

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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Hello all, sorry for the late reply but as my Chromebook is still being mended I didn't fancy typeing out replies on my tablet keyboard.

 

I should have mentioned the boat will have full 25mm closed cell spray foam insulation throughout

 

Chaz

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