Lining out materials

[PaulD]

Has anyone used full stave hardwood boards for lining out, bulkheads and floor? This is the material used for making kitchen worktops.

[Bones]

Has anyone used full stave hardwood boards for lining out, bulkheads and floor? This is the material used for making kitchen worktops.

 

 

in short no. But I am interested in why you want to.....?

[PaulD]

in short no. But I am interested in why you want to.....?

 

Has been offered at a price competitive with Veneered WBP ply. It looks great but is it a suitable material?

[tyse]

full stave hardwood boards would add a LOT of weight to your boat if 40 mm thick,.

and i would think you would need to make sure they are well sealed on back/front and all edges moisture would cause them to warp.

 

price must be very competitive as they retail about £100 a metre,

got any oak ones btw

[bottle]

Not only would they be heavy but you would lose nearly three inches on the inside width of the boat, if you used them as a liner.

[ChrisPy]

lining - can't see the point.

floors - would look lovely.

all my counter tops in the galley and elsewhere are IKEA 38mm oak. hard to work with, but very robust and good finish.

 

not cheap, but if you can get it at a bargain price ............................. lucky you

[PaulD]

lining - can't see the point.

floors - would look lovely.

all my counter tops in the galley and elsewhere are IKEA 38mm oak. hard to work with, but very robust and good finish.

 

not cheap, but if you can get it at a bargain price ............................. lucky you

 

 

This material is available in different thicknesses and idea was to use 19 or 22mm thick Oak boards for lining sides and making bulkheads. Obvious question is would board of this thickness split or twist with changing humidity and expansion of the shell.

 

Agree 38mm board is an option seriously worth considering for the floor.

[ChrisPy]

Obvious question is would board of this thickness split or twist with changing humidity and expansion of the shell.

 

in the case of linings, would probably prove too rigid and would fail in some way.

 

there is a good reason why flexible 2-directional plywood is used for such applications, or failing that tongue and groove boarding that is tolerant of movement.

Edited November 1, 2006 by chris polley

[blackrose]

This material is available in different thicknesses and idea was to use 19 or 22mm thick Oak boards for lining sides and making bulkheads. Obvious question is would board of this thickness split or twist with changing humidity and expansion of the shell.

 

Agree 38mm board is an option seriously worth considering for the floor.

 

I was thinking about a solid oak floor but came across too many references indicating that solid wood floors should not be laid below ground level - I think it was for reasons of dampness & humidity possibly causing the planks to warp. Although there I wasn't particularly worried about dampness on my boat there are wide temperature fluctuations in summer/winter, when the stove's on and when it's not.

 

3 layer engineered wood was the other alternative as it's supposed to be more dimensionally stable, but my subfloor either needed levelling or the hardwood floor would require secret nailing. The possibility of plumbing leaks on a wood floor put me off, especially if it was nailed down and not floating, so in the end I went for carpet tiles which would be much easier to rip up & replace in such an eventuality.

Edited November 2, 2006 by blackrose