Solid fuel stove

[BeninReading]

Hi,

 

I have a 1994 narrowboat and I am wanting to replace the Morso squirrel 1410 with a new one (exactly the same - I hope). I have done some investigative work looking at where the flue passes through the roof collar. Between the flue and collar is a sealant that is squidgy (it may have fire cement/rope underneath) - firstly I stuck a screwdriver in and then I tried putting a scewer through the sealant between the collar and the flue and it went all the way through the sealant and up so you could see it in the collar on the roof (I did this in two places). This surprised me as I have been informed that I have to replace the collar when replacing the stove. The trouble is, my collar is covered by a sheet of oak faces ply from the underside where the coach bolts are and is very difficult to access. It seems to me that I may be able to disconnect the flue from the top of the stove and then move the flue enough to get the new stove in, before resealing and reattaching everything.

 

As you may well imagine, I am not a natural engineer, so any simple help/advice would be much appreciated.

 

Many thanks,

 

Ben

[BEngo]

Hi,

 

I have a 1994 narrowboat and I am wanting to replace the Morso squirrel 1410 with a new one (exactly the same - I hope). I have done some investigative work looking at where the flue passes through the roof collar. Between the flue and collar is a sealant that is squidgy (it may have fire cement/rope underneath) - firstly I stuck a screwdriver in and then I tried putting a scewer through the sealant between the collar and the flue and it went all the way through the sealant and up so you could see it in the collar on the roof (I did this in two places). This surprised me as I have been informed that I have to replace the collar when replacing the stove. The trouble is, my collar is covered by a sheet of oak faces ply from the underside where the coach bolts are and is very difficult to access. It seems to me that I may be able to disconnect the flue from the top of the stove and then move the flue enough to get the new stove in, before resealing and reattaching everything.

 

As you may well imagine, I am not a natural engineer, so any simple help/advice would be much appreciated.

 

Many thanks,

 

Ben

 

Someone will be along soon to tell you about the new Code of Practice for solid fuel stoves, and how you need a new double skinned and insulated flue, but leaving that aside, there are things that you have done which mean you need to do other things now.

 

You are correct that the existing flue could be transferred to the new stove (provided it is in good order) and that you should not need to remove the roof collar to do that. Since you have put a screwdriver through the top flue sealant, the flue will now have to come out so that you can remove the sealant from the flue and the collar. Otherwise the condensation on the chimney and general rain water will eventually find its way between the flue and the collar, into the boat. It will not do this until it is cold and you need the stove lit.

 

The flue is only pushed into the collar from below, so cut round the sealant top and bottom, undo anything that fixes the flue to the boat and lift it clear of the stove. The collar in the Squirrel may well come with it as the fixing lugs are in the chocolate teapot league. Clean the flue and the collar really well. Then re-seal the (new) Squirrel with stove rope at the bottom and high temperature silicone at the top. Stove rope at the top is not esential, but it can provide a useful support for the HT silicone whilst it sets. There is another thread running on here where someone has recommended an e-bay reference for a product.

 

I have used HT silicon at the bottom end, as have others, but potentially it can get hotter than it is specified to withstand so YMMV. Fire cement works at the bottom too, for a short while, then it cracks and is useless. Remember that it is vital to keep the Carbon Monoxide in the flue and not let it get into the boat.

 

N

[BeninReading]

Thanks for a thorough reply. I am aware of the new guidance, hence me wanting to do it myself (and understand more about my stove and flue in the process)...

 

Much appreciated,

 

Ben

[blackrose]

Since you have put a screwdriver through the top flue sealant, the flue will now have to come out so that you can remove the sealant from the flue and the collar. Otherwise the condensation on the chimney and general rain water will eventually find its way between the flue and the collar, into the boat. It will not do this until it is cold and you need the stove lit.

 

Why can't he just put a bit more sealant on top of the hole that he made? I'd just put a new bead of plumbaflue all around the flue.

 

If the flue and collar are in good condition there's no need to replace them. The only thing is that you might struggle to get the stove out without raising the flue, so in that case you may need to break the seal and lift the flue. Then of course you'll need to reseal the flue with fire rope and a new bead of plumbaflue on top once you've fit your new stove.

 

http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

 

I think Screwfix sell it.

Edited July 10, 2012 by blackrose

[BlueStringPudding]

A year or so ago when cleaning the flue pipe and chimney, the flue brush got stuck towards the bottom of the flue pipe. When I finally managed to hoick it out, the fire rope from the bottom of the flue pipe was attached to it! I was concerned afterwards that being without this could result in carbon monoxide leaking into the cabin. But as I have a CO alarm in that cabin and another in the bedroom which is the next cabin along, and they are regularly tested but have never been set off by CO, and after a whole winter of almost continuous burning of coal and wood, not to mention this so called spring and summer of intermittent burning of coal and wood, I can safely say that the plumbaflue has been a sufficient seal.

 

I have a Boatman stove and I replace the plumbaflue at the bottom of the flue pipe every year and have done since I had the stove installed. I do this as part of the annual refurb of derusting any bits inside and repainting the stove each summer. I appreciate the advice being given to the OP may be for a stove that has a higher overall output than my Boatman (whcih is 4kw) but do we think that fire rope really is essential at the base of the flue pipe?

Edited July 10, 2012 by BlueStringPudding

[Carl Heads]

When the flu is fixed at the roof end I put wedges under the stove and undo the feet.remove theseand lower the stove. If the old feet have fixing holes in them ,use these on the new stove.