Laurence Hogg Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 The maintenance / stripping out argument is irrelevant, whichever needs replacing it's a major issue to the internal fitout. The thing about wooden bottoms is they like to be wet so not quite so compatible with a conversion. As long as you don't mind damp bilges I would definitely (personally) go for a wooden bottom and wooden cabin, I have lived in both and wood is much warmer (and cooler in summer). I would say that the bottom material shouldn't be the factor that decides the boat and unless they are shot (whichever material) I wouldn't rebottom if not needed. I am with Chris on this, wooden cabins are so much nicer to have, wooden bottoms are fine if maintained well and if you do have a small leak they can be plugged a lot easier thansteel or iron. Sadly I have just been talked out of having a wooden cabin on a boat being restored, but unless you have experienced one its difficult for the users to appreciate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allybsc Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I am with Chris on this, wooden cabins are so much nicer to have, wooden bottoms are fine if maintained well and if you do have a small leak they can be plugged a lot easier thansteel or iron. Sadly I have just been talked out of having a wooden cabin on a boat being restored, but unless you have experienced one its difficult for the users to appreciate. I think wooden cabins have a personality...is that a bit mad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koukouvagia Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) I think wooden cabins have a personality...is that a bit mad? No it's not mad at all. However, you do have to be a bit mad to persevere with a wooden cabin when everyone is telling you to put a steel one on. I battled for years trying to keep rot and damp at bay. In the end I sheathed the whole lot in fibreglass and resin. I know it's a bit of a compromise, but at least the cabin feels right and is now snug and warm. Before After Edited April 12, 2012 by koukouvagia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allybsc Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 No it's not mad at all. However, you do have to be a bit mad to persevere with a wooden cabin when everyone is telling you to put a steel one on. I battled for years trying to keep rot and damp at bay. In the end I sheathed the whole lot in fibreglass and resin. I know it's a bit of a compromise, but at least the cabin feels right and is now snug and warm. Wow, that's not a small amount of rot, the after pictures are great, such a beautiful boat. I lived in a wooden house for 10 years, the only brick in it was the chimney breasts and the piers it stood on so I understand you can't let it go or your in trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billh Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 I read somewhere that a new elm bottom should last for 20 years if looked after, if we budgeted for every plank being replaced it should be OK???? How often would you expect to dock the boat after that? Maria's elm bottom was new in 1977, as were the oak sides. I make that 35 years . I doubt they will need replacing in my lifetime ( depending on how long I've got!). She is slipped every 2 years, bottoms caulked ,steel shoeing repaired ( as Tim says , the shoeing can be regarded as sacrificial in our rubbish strewn canals) and a good coat of looking at . Not found anything untoward so far Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSer Posted April 13, 2012 Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Fitting a steel bottom to a composite shouldn't be a one way trip, if it feels wrong in steel, you should be able to refit a wooden bottom i suppose. When i bought cygnus it had had a steel bottom fitted a couple of years back, the remaining bits of healthy elm was kept in the hold for future projects, there was not alot left perhaps 6 or 7 planks of mostly firm elm. I'd guess the old bottom was quite bad pre the re plate. As far as i can tell from the bills that came with the boat the cost of the work was in the region of £8k Good luck Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allybsc Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Maria's elm bottom was new in 1977, as were the oak sides. I make that 35 years . I doubt they will need replacing in my lifetime ( depending on how long I've got!). She is slipped every 2 years, bottoms caulked ,steel shoeing repaired ( as Tim says , the shoeing can be regarded as sacrificial in our rubbish strewn canals) and a good coat of looking at . Not found anything untoward so far Bill Sorry I've not replied sooner, I've been on the boat. That all sounds very encouraging, shoeing sounds a good idea, we once went over a car on the junction of the Ashton a couple of years ago which gave us a bit if a fright! Fitting a steel bottom to a composite shouldn't be a one way trip, if it feels wrong in steel, you should be able to refit a wooden bottom i suppose. When i bought cygnus it had had a steel bottom fitted a couple of years back, the remaining bits of healthy elm was kept in the hold for future projects, there was not alot left perhaps 6 or 7 planks of mostly firm elm. I'd guess the old bottom was quite bad pre the re plate. As far as i can tell from the bills that came with the boat the cost of the work was in the region of £8k Good luck Paul Thanks, we've been off getting quotes to get our boat done this weekend so we are moving closer to our goal. I think mulling it all over that we would possibly keep a wooden bottom if we found the right composite boat for us, seems to be enough decent craftsmen in our area capable of keeping it in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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