Mikuni MX60 servicing

[Biggles]

Does anyone out there know of a service manual or walk through. I need to do a decoke.

[RobinJ]

Does anyone out there know of a service manual or walk through. I need to do a decoke.

Vaguely remember something on YouTube last year, but it didn't mention a model!

[Biggles]

I have tried youtube but nothing I can find. Might try MX40 it's the same thing just smaller..

[Albion]

I have tried youtube but nothing I can find. Might try MX40 it's the same thing just smaller..

 

Although the operating principles of the MX60 are the same as the MX40 the actual design isn't the same when it comes to dismantling them. I could dismantle an MX40 in my sleep. I have yet to tackle my MX60 because it is too new but know that they don't look alike for dismantling procedure.

Roger

Edited to add that there is a downloadable pdf exploded parts diagram here: MX60

that will probably help in what to dismantle.

Edited January 20, 2012 by Albion

[NMEA]

As a Mikuni & Webasto appointed dealer I'm sorry to say that manuals for most of the Mikuni stuff are half in Japanese and a bit thin when compared to the Webasto and Eberspacher ones, that's if you can find one online,the ones for the MY30 and MY16 are OK but the smaller (non pressure jet) water heaters are not really much use. What makes you think you need a decoke?

[lesrollins]

How good is the mikuni mx60 and is it efficient to run and maintain

[Robbo]

How good is the mikuni mx60 and is it efficient to run and maintain

 

There are better options than the pre-heater type of diesel heaters. Hurricane and the Bubble PJ to name two.

[Albion]

How good is the mikuni mx60 and is it efficient to run and maintain

 

My experience of MX40s and MX60s are that they are good, better than the two other competitors (Webasto and Eberspacher) from what I have heard, but that you will need to build up some experience in maintaining them as they benefit from routine maintenance. I have built up considerable experience of MX40s and haven't a hesitation in servicing them. I haven't tackled my MX60 yet because it is too new and hasn't needed attention yet. One thing that I am convinced of is that the Mikuni doesn't need any specialist diagnostic equipment and is, like all the other heaters of its type, better running on white diesel than some of the 'red' that you can get on the UK canals. In France we run on white for the engine and, to be honest, I shall also run my heating on white even though red is allowable (but not easily obtainable in small quantities). Mikuni UK support is excellent by the way, much more supportive for the amateur maintenance technician than most companies in my experience.

Roger

Edited January 21, 2012 by Albion

[Biggles]

As a Mikuni & Webasto appointed dealer I'm sorry to say that manuals for most of the Mikuni stuff are half in Japanese and a bit thin when compared to the Webasto and Eberspacher ones, that's if you can find one online,the ones for the MY30 and MY16 are OK but the smaller (non pressure jet) water heaters are not really much use. What makes you think you need a decoke?

 

I rung Steve at Mikuni UK and described my issue which is very smokey and unburnt diesel coming out of the exhaust removing the blacking on the boat. Also it doesn't seem to get as hot, but in fairness the previous times I've used it was when I installed in the warmer weather. So now its working harder.

 

My experience of MX40s and MX60s are that they are good, better than the two other competitors (Webasto and Eberspacher) from what I have heard, but that you will need to build up some experience in maintaining them as they benefit from routine maintenance. I have built up considerable experience of MX40s and haven't a hesitation in servicing them. I haven't tackled my MX60 yet because it is too new and hasn't needed attention yet. One thing that I am convinced of is that the Mikuni doesn't need any specialist diagnostic equipment and is, like all the other heaters of its type, better running on white diesel than some of the 'red' that you can get on the UK canals. In France we run on white for the engine and, to be honest, I shall also run my heating on white even though red is allowable (but not easily obtainable in small quantities). Mikuni UK support is excellent by the way, much more supportive for the amateur maintenance technician than most companies in my experience.

Roger

 

Agreed support has been first rate.

 

Although the operating principles of the MX60 are the same as the MX40 the actual design isn't the same when it comes to dismantling them. I could dismantle an MX40 in my sleep. I have yet to tackle my MX60 because it is too new but know that they don't look alike for dismantling procedure.

Roger

Edited to add that there is a downloadable pdf exploded parts diagram here: MX60

that will probably help in what to dismantle.

 

Thanks for the link. I assume the part 3 is the bit that cokes up?

 

How good is the mikuni mx60 and is it efficient to run and maintain

 

Full chat burn rate is said to be .58L/H so about 40p/H on red.

[NMEA]

Apart from a glow plug which is really a cheap service item on a Mikuni as it is such old tech, the glow plug boss is usually worth replacing in my experience as it is difficult if not impossible to be sure you have got it completely clean,sometimes needs the mini slide hammer to get it out too. You may need to replace both side wicks but they are cheap enough. All the other bits are easy to clean and quite robust. The Mikuni, being the most agricultural and simple of the three main evaporator heaters is a simple thing to self service and though it can burn a bit rich and use more fuel and coke up if the exhaust CO2 is not adjusted correctly, but that really goes for all three. At least all you need to do it on the Mikunis is a flue gas analyser with light oil capability.

Edited January 21, 2012 by NMEA

[Biggles]

Apart from a glow plug which is really a cheap service item on a Mikuni as it is such old tech, the glow plug boss is usually worth replacing in my experience as it is difficult if not impossible to be sure you have got it completely clean,sometimes needs the mini slide hammer to get it out too. You may need to replace both side wicks but they are cheap enough. All the other bits are easy to clean and quite robust. The Mikuni, being the most agricultural and simple of the three main evaporator heaters is a simple thing to self service and though it can burn a bit rich and use more fuel and coke up if the exhaust CO2 is not adjusted correctly, but that really goes for all three. At least all you need to do it on the Mikunis is a flue gas analyser with light oil capability.

 

 

So is there anyway of leaning it back a bit to stop the coking?

 

Maybe I should do a pictorial walk through on decoking an MX60 like I did on a VNT turbo seeing as how there is nothing out there.

Edited January 21, 2012 by Biggles

[NMEA]

So is there anyway of leaning it back a bit to stop the coking?

 

Of course there is, just as in any of the evaperator units, anything from a simple screw to hooking my computer and firing the ECU control software up, all require the use of a flue gas analyser that has been certifed and calibrated, it's definately not a matter of leaning it off, it may be within spec already, more a case of checking the CO2 in the exhaust and bringing it withinn the paramiters, that may mean richer even if it is running lean and burning out plugs and bosses, wicks etc, but most services I do result in reducing the CO2, or leaning it off as you put it, reduces the chances of coking rather than eliminates it.

[Biggles]

Of course there is, just as in any of the evaperator units, anything from a simple screw to hooking my computer and firing the ECU control software up, all require the use of a flue gas analyser that has been certifed and calibrated, it's definately not a matter of leaning it off, it may be within spec already, more a case of checking the CO2 in the exhaust and bringing it withinn the paramiters, that may mean richer even if it is running lean and burning out plugs and bosses, wicks etc, but most services I do result in reducing the CO2, or leaning it off as you put it, reduces the chances of coking rather than eliminates it.

 

PM Your phone number so we can have a chat please.

[Albion]

Thanks for the link. I assume the part 3 is the bit that cokes up?

 

Part 3 is the main chamber in which combustion takes place and the heat transfer to the water jacket occurs. Part 4, the glow plug boss/holder is the part that on an MX40 which I found tended to foul up the two swirl holes that are set at an angle to the axis (instead of coming in at 90 degrees). I found that you could clear them with a drill bit rotated gently in your fingers and it was an essential bit of maintenance if the glowplug wasn't to clog up with carbon on its lower side causing an inter-turn short in the windings of the glow plug and then this caused the main fuse to blow.

Roger

[NMEA]

PM Your phone number so we can have a chat please.

 

Will do, but bear in mind that the MX60 CO2 adjustment (if needed) is acheaved by using shims in the combustion air fan and not one of the simplest procedures.

 

"The member "Biggles" can not recieve any new email messages"

Edited January 22, 2012 by NMEA

[Biggles]

Coming back to this, I forgot to post about about my decoke.

 

It was really very simple. All it required was to remove the fan assy. Take out the next part that was a stainless assy. This was coked up and there is a fine SS mesh which was clogged. I cleaned off all the coke, reassembled all done in about 20 minutes and was back to full power as new.

 

This is a mini de-coke, there is a bigger one involving the combustion chamber and heat exchanger but that is after a lot of use.