Draining the water system

[Old Son]

I received the BW winter moorings circular yesterday and I started to think about winter.

 

This will be my first winter owning my own boat on the cut. I plan to visit the boat most weekends so I dont want to drain the tank/system unless I really need to. I was proposing to turn off the water supply at the tank, run the water pump to drain as much water from the system as I can and then leave all taps open. Does this sound reasonable or am I likely to get a frozen pipe?

 

I have antifreeze in my heating system so that should be fine.

[RobinJ]

I received the BW winter moorings circular yesterday and I started to think about winter.

 

This will be my first winter owning my own boat on the cut. I plan to visit the boat most weekends so I dont want to drain the tank/system unless I really need to. I was proposing to turn off the water supply at the tank, run the water pump to drain as much water from the system as I can and then leave all taps open. Does this sound reasonable or am I likely to get a frozen pipe?

 

I have antifreeze in my heating system so that should be fine.

In principle it sounds good, however with the ventilation requirements of the BSS, it doesn't take long for the temperature inside the boat to drop.

Leaving the system pressurised will protect usually down to about -5, if it is drained then fine, but you will have to make sure the pump is completely empty. Normally turning of the stop cock and disconnecting the pump will ensure all the water is flushed out (especially if it is run dry before sitching off). The tank is normally fine, but if a layer of ice forms it may take paint on the inside of the tank or cause other damage?

[bridge100]

Also if you have water filters, they should be drained as ive had those crack

[nb Innisfree]

For the first time we left the boat over the '10/'11 winter, we drained the water system and calorifiers but in our rush forgot to hang the shower head down and mixer was destroyed, forgot to put antifreeze in the macerator and the bowl cracked + one of the water pumps didn't drain properly and the pressure switch was broken. A mild winter like we've been used to and you're ok but a nippy one like the last one it can be expensive if you don't drain thoroughly.

 

ETA: Funnily enough the water filter was ok even though we didn't drain it.

Edited August 15, 2011 by nb Innisfree

[Bobbybass]

Much as the above posters have said.

 

I leave my boat for about 5 months over winter...starting when it gets cold...

 

I put some Milton fluid in the tank...and fill it to the top...and leave for an hour or so.

This is so that any traces of water...resist mould growth.

Run all taps...drain tank...

Remove pump hoses (never much come out)..put a bowl under pipes to catch drips...

Close all taps....remove shower head.....blow back down pipe to blow water from the pump pipes..

open all taps...remove / drain water filters...

Hang shower pipe down..and leave shower mixer open...

As has been said....put some anti-freeze down loo to stop it cracking.

I also lightly grease....loo seat hinges....as they can corrode on the brightwork...and I leave the seat up...as it stops condensation and mould growth..on the lid...

I drain the calorifiers as best as I can....but I have oodles of insulation on them..not just the foam that the tank comes with...but I also have wrapped them in household water jackets...

I run the shwoer drain pump...and remove that filter...surounding it with J cloths.

 

Something I think important...as I have health issues....is that when I return to the boat...I sterilise the hot pipes as they can breed Legionella. Having suffered this...(not from the boat)...and been hospitalised last year....I would recommend this.

 

I have a spray bottle on the boat...with a mix of clove oil.(from chemist..in a little bottle)...and a little washing up liquid(as its an oil and needs to disolve ) Reuse an old spray bottle...as some of the pound shop ones have a spring which goes rusty

I was told by a caravan person..that this kills mildew.

The 'story' went...that people use bleach...but mildew can survive bleach....it just goes white and you think its gone.

My own comment on this...is that when I return...there is not a single spot of mildew.

Last year...due to bad timing...I left the boat soggy wet.

THere were a few days of torential rain....but I had a flight booked...and had to go..

Due to trudging in and out getting it ready...the carpets were wet...we had slept on it..and there was condensation etc.

We sprayed it...ceilings...curtains....carpets etc...and made it more damp !!

When we returned....after 5 months...there was no mildew...so I think the clove oil works...

Wedge the fridge door open as well...or it will go black...

 

I also...overtighten the stern gland and overdo the greeasing...to stop water ingress...

Not forgetting to shut of fuel supplies to engine and Eberspacher..

 

Maybe we should start a 'winterising tips' section on CWDF ?

 

bob

Edited August 15, 2011 by Bobbybass

[GSer]

Along with most of the above, I always check all bilge pumps and strum boxes and clear the bilges/rain channels of any leaf waste from the autumn fall. Rain/snowmelt water can cause serious damage should any of the systems fail.

[Old Son]

Maybe I should think about draining the whole lot down and not using water over the winter? I suppose I could take any water I need with me and use a portapotti instead of the pump out. Would antifreeze in the toilet bulb get right into the macerator and protect that?

 

Some great tips and loads to think about.