Gas pie, definitely under but how?

[Smelly]

so, referring to all the "I'm keeping it simple" references in Moley's post; nowt but the cooker for me so a single run from bulkhead to tap to cooker from a single reg.

 

My Only question is... between the usual bow placed gas locker and the for'ard bulkhead the pipe's got to be fixed to a piece of wood, but how would I aesthetically fix the wood to the steel.

 

I've got screws, but don't want to drill the steel. I've got industrial glue but not sure whether it's suitable although it says it is, (I dont think Solvite ever set their hanging man to vibrating for a few years while hanging from his crane).

 

What's the recommended practoce for fitting the piece of battening under the gunwhale along the bow?

 

As ever, answers onna postcard pleez!

 

Hmmmm, gas "pie" me thinks that was a freudian slip...

[John Orentas]

Hi Dan.

 

The gas pipe does not need to be fixed to a timber batten, it would rot in no time. Fix the pipe directly to the hull side using suitable clips or saddles, copper 'piro' clips are good. There is usually an inch or so of the steel down from the gunnel. Drill through and use 4mm brass screws and nuts every 300mm, if you get countersunk ones it will make a neater job, don't forget to paint inside the holes.

 

Pass through both bulkheads with say 25mm holes and use grommets or perhaps better silicone sealant, avoid metal to metal contact, better not to use bulkhead connectors.

[Bones]

mine is fixed on a wooden batten with industrial glue to the steel. Seems to do the job. As for rotting - not sure why - not my forte. Mine was fixed by 'ye old professionals though' so I trust it.

[Guest]

so, referring to all the "I'm keeping it simple" references in Moley's post; nowt but the cooker for me so a single run from bulkhead to tap to cooker from a single reg.

 

My Only question is... between the usual bow placed gas locker and the for'ard bulkhead the pipe's got to be fixed to a piece of wood, but how would I aesthetically fix the wood to the steel.

 

I've got screws, but don't want to drill the steel. I've got industrial glue but not sure whether it's suitable although it says it is, (I dont think Solvite ever set their hanging man to vibrating for a few years while hanging from his crane).

 

What's the recommended practoce for fitting the piece of battening under the gunwhale along the bow?

 

As ever, answers onna postcard pleez!

 

Hmmmm, gas "pie" me thinks that was a freudian slip...

 

If you must use wood then use something like mahogany and stick with "no-nails" or similar. I agree with john that copper clips are better. If you do use bulhead fittings (horrible) then dont cut the pipe, but run a drill through the fitting and use it as a sleeve. Another member used electrical stuffing glands-seems a very good idea that unfortunately I didn't think of at the time

Edited February 23, 2006 by Guest

[GUMPY]

Pass through both bulkheads with say 25mm holes and use grommets or perhaps better silicone sealant, avoid metal to metal contact, better not to use bulkhead connectors.

 

Bulkhead fittings can be fine, provided that you drill them through, for example with a 5/16 fitting you drill through at 9mm the enables you to pass the pipe through after having fixed the fitting in place.

Then all you do is nip up the ends of the fitting a voila a secure fitting on a contiuous length of pipe.

There are some places where bulkhead fitting have to be used and this is a good way of removing the joint.

Having said that, BH fittings only really work through steel bulkheads of which there are ususlly two between the locker and the cooker.

 

For non sealed bulkheads (internal) a very good way is to use 15mm hep20 plastic water pipe clip it both sides of the bulkhead and silicone seal it where it passes through. IIRC I think you can pass up to 3/8 pipe through it, I know that 5/16 will pass through but cant remember if 3/8 fits.

 

 

J

[Smelly]

and here's me thinking that compressed bulkhead fitting are a must... tops, more drilling, less cutting, fewer joints. I like it that way.

 

I have got a big bag of rubber grommets that will be less bother, but BF's will be an excuse to use my new drill press, TOPS!

 

As for brass countersunk bolts, it's a nice idea, but i've got loads of rivets... not as elegant a job but with a coat of blacking over the top you'll never know the difference, nahh, maybe I'll stick to bolts, off to the Chandlers then!

 

It's not passing through any internal bulkheads at all, only the steel ones, so i'm going to have to find someone to pass the HEP20 idea on to, it seems a shame to waste it!

 

cheers all!

 

S

[GUMPY]

and here's me thinking that compressed bulkhead fitting are a must... tops, more drilling, less cutting, fewer joints. I like it that way.

 

The thing is with drilling them out, unless someone tries to disasemble them no one will ever know that they are not what they appear to be.

 

I was actually told by my BSS examiner to do it that way before I re-fitted the gas on Idleness.

 

As for the plastic pipe I use a run of 15mm across the cockpit with the copper inside suppotred by plastic clips bolted onto the hull (ie you tap the hull and use that as the nut for the bolt then grind off the surplus bolt before you repaint the outside.

 

Oh and if you want to see a strange place for a gas pipe, the one on Parglena runs lengthways down the boat on the ceiling

 

J

[John Orentas]

As for the plastic pipe I use a run of 15mm across the cockpit with the copper inside suppotred by plastic clips bolted onto the hull (ie you tap the hull and use that as the nut for the bolt then grind off the surplus bolt before you repaint the outside.

 

 

I don't know about running the gas pipe through a plastic one, a picky examiner may well say that the pipe is not accessible.

[lymmranger]

Mine runs down the centre of the ceiling...

 

can`t get much higher!

 

much easier too

[GUMPY]

I don't know about running the gas pipe through a plastic one, a picky examiner may well say that the pipe is not accessible.

 

That would be being really picky................

One way round that is to use 15mm braided water hose which is clear so the examiner can see the copper pipe.

 

J

Edited February 23, 2006 by idleness