Views on Waxoyl

[PaddingtonBear]

It has been suggested that the void created by the overplating should be filled with Waxoyl. Very good says I but that was until I discovered how much it was! are there any alternatives - used or even new engine oil, diesel etc. or am I spoiling a ship for a hap'orth of tar. It looks like it might cost around £200 for Waxoyl or similar.

[MoominPapa]

It has been suggested that the void created by the overplating should be filled with Waxoyl. Very good says I but that was until I discovered how much it was! are there any alternatives - used or even new engine oil, diesel etc. or am I spoiling a ship for a hap'orth of tar. It looks like it might cost around £200 for Waxoyl or similar.

I have 5l hanging around in the garage* from the days when cars used to dissolve. You're welcome to that if it would soften the blow.

 

 

MP.

 

* Well I have a 5l container. I think it's pretty full, but it's not been touched for years so I may have mis-remebered.

[RLWP]

It has been suggested that the void created by the overplating should be filled with Waxoyl. Very good says I but that was until I discovered how much it was! are there any alternatives - used or even new engine oil, diesel etc. or am I spoiling a ship for a hap'orth of tar. It looks like it might cost around £200 for Waxoyl or similar.

 

How would you achieve this?

 

Richard

[Chertsey]

How would you achieve this?

 

Richard

Tank fittings installed in the bottom of the old plate before overplating.

I would definitely be inclined to fork out for the Waxoyl myself, and MP's very kind offer is much appreciated. I think 'void' might be overstating the depth of the gap a bit.

 

Now, should I also put it under the fuel tanks, or would a good lashing of bilge paint (or something else?) do the job there?

[Guest]

Apart from the stink, Waxoyl has proved to be a good product (for me anyway.) If it is somehow possible to get it between the skins, I would have thought it would be highly beneficial.

[flatplane8]

I know the Dutch use 'hull grease' (needs heating to make it runny) and 'hull oil' (quite runny) to protect their boats. I got a 25 litre drum of it from Energy Solutions, and it wasn't anything like £200 (maybe£50?). But I'd say if its been overplated, then it should be airtight and not much scope for more rust anyway?

[andywatson]

It has been suggested that the void created by the overplating should be filled with Waxoyl. Very good says I but that was until I discovered how much it was! are there any alternatives - used or even new engine oil, diesel etc. or am I spoiling a ship for a hap'orth of tar. It looks like it might cost around £200 for Waxoyl or similar.

 

It's good stuff. I'd say it's only weakness is it's lack of abrasion resistance which will not be a problem in your application.

 

I can't see how you are going to use £200 worth though. You only need to coat the surfaces which might rust not fill the entire void.

[RLWP]

I can't see how it is possible to fill the voids anyway. If you try and pump it in, what happens to any air in the gaps. If you really pump hard, will you inflate the voids with waxoyl and split the welds?

 

Richard

[bag 'o' bones]

Waxoyl is far to thick to be used neat so thin it down with white sprit and also warm the can in a bucket of hot water. Also it helps to warm whatever you are applying it too for maximum creepage.

 

Waxoyl goes a hell of a long way - most folk apply far too much.

 

Forget making your own waxoyl - its very messy. Instead as well as thinning waxoyl with white spirits bulk it out with some clean engine oil.

Edited April 30, 2010 by bag 'o' bones

[andywatson]

I can't see how it is possible to fill the voids anyway. If you try and pump it in, what happens to any air in the gaps. If you really pump hard, will you inflate the voids with waxoyl and split the welds?

 

Richard

 

If possible I'd use it well thinned and inject it with compressed air using a paraffin gun or other dispenser with a long nozzle.

You will have more chance of getting it in place where you can't get direct access by providing a circulation route if possile.

ie Inject at one end and ensure the spray travels right though the void.

 

The warmer and thinner you can get it, the better.

[RLWP]

The initial idea by the OP was to put it in the voids between the original hull plates and the overplating. I still can't see how to do that effectively, let alone know if it had really got into the voids properly.

 

If you are worried, either paint the original hull and the insides of the overplate well before welding them on, or do what I now do with car repairs, cut out and replace with new.

 

Richard

[Chertsey]

The initial idea by the OP was to put it in the voids between the original hull plates and the overplating. I still can't see how to do that effectively, let alone know if it had really got into the voids properly.

 

If you are worried, either paint the original hull and the insides of the overplate well before welding them on, or do what I now do with car repairs, cut out and replace with new.

 

Richard

It relies on creepage. It's belt and braces as there shouldn't be any way of water getting into the space, and if it does it will most likely be from above. Good to hear that PB may have overestimated the cost and/or amount required.

 

It's done now, but it was a deliberate decision to overplate so as not to lose any more of the original floor of the hold.

 

So in short, I'm not worried, just want to do everything possible for maximum durability.

Edited April 30, 2010 by Chertsey

[PhilR]

It relies on creepage. It's belt and braces as there shouldn't be any way of water getting into the space, and if it does it will most likely be from above. Good to hear that PB may have overestimated the cost and/or amount required.

 

If you want something that will creep between the plates maybe Owatrol oil would be best for the job?

[PaddingtonBear]

Owatrol is truely fantastic stuff but it would cost around 4 times as much as Waxoyl although I will use it for the slide covers etc.

Thanks for reminding me.

[weasel]

If the old hull skin is still water tight and the over plate has been put on well there is no need to worry, it will not rust between the old and new plate.

[Gunna Do]

It has been suggested that the void created by the overplating should be filled with Waxoyl. Very good says I but that was until I discovered how much it was! are there any alternatives - used or even new engine oil, diesel etc. or am I spoiling a ship for a hap'orth of tar. It looks like it might cost around £200 for Waxoyl or similar.

 

I use Waxoyl a lot at work. I wouldn't thin it with any additives but just heat it up and use compressed air to get it on as has been suggested elsewhere. You only need a mist to get protection but the bit about warming it up should also warn you that on hot days, it will also run off. Obviously if this overplating is underwater then this won't happen as quickly but you will still need to re-apply occasionally.

If you do go down this route, DON'T BREATH IT IN as it will give you a mega hangover without the fun. I know 'cause I've been there several times!!