Can someone identify my engine control?

[RLWP]

Well, the mystery of why the engine speed control had stopped working is revealed. There's a little brass top hat thing with a threaded hole running across the head for the cable end. The spigot passes through the throttle lever and has a washer and split pin. But the spigot has worn down to about 1/16" diameter and given up.

 

What make of control do I have? I forgot to take the camera to the boat but here are a couple of pictures that almost show the lever on some other Alvechurch boats:

 

 

The control has an oval housing with a single black lever with a red top. There's a little red tab that disconnects the gearbox behind the control lever.

 

Can anyone help as I want to order some bits?

 

Richard

[Tony Brooks]

Well, the mystery of why the engine speed control had stopped working is revealed. There's a little brass top hat thing with a threaded hole running across the head for the cable end. The spigot passes through the throttle lever and has a washer and split pin. But the spigot has worn down to about 1/16" diameter and given up.

 

What make of control do I have? I forgot to take the camera to the boat but here are a couple of pictures that almost show the lever on some other Alvechurch boats:

 

 

The control has an oval housing with a single black lever with a red top. There's a little red tab that disconnects the gearbox behind the control lever.

 

Can anyone help as I want to order some bits?

 

Richard

 

 

I think you are describing a very common item, often known as a trunnion, across a whole range of makes. Almost any decent chandlers or engineer should carry a selection in stock.

 

It is also a very common failure because no one ever lubricates the things and never inspects them during a service.

 

take care with the adjustment when you get a new one because the cable anchor at the control end is often (but not always) spring loaded so adjust the trunnion on the cable with the control in IDLE ahead or astern.

 

Check the one on the gear cables as well and lubricate them with molygrease (CV joint grease).

 

I think the majority of members would do well to at least fell for play between the arm and trunnion or better still inspect it and lubricate it.

 

I would try to find a suitably sized R clip to replace the split pin so its easier to remove & refit.

 

Finally I could do with a few badly worn and failed ones so please message me if you have any.

 

Cheers

[RLWP]

I think you are describing a very common item, often known as a trunnion, across a whole range of makes. Almost any decent chandlers or engineer should carry a selection in stock.

 

It is also a very common failure because no one ever lubricates the things and never inspects them during a service.

 

take care with the adjustment when you get a new one because the cable anchor at the control end is often (but not always) spring loaded so adjust the trunnion on the cable with the control in IDLE ahead or astern.

 

Check the one on the gear cables as well and lubricate them with molygrease (CV joint grease).

 

I think the majority of members would do well to at least fell for play between the arm and trunnion or better still inspect it and lubricate it.

 

I would try to find a suitably sized R clip to replace the split pin so its easier to remove & refit.

 

Finally I could do with a few badly worn and failed ones so please message me if you have any.

 

Cheers

 

Thanks Tony. The broken bit looks like one of these:

But without the top hat bush. I'd order the one in the picture if I knew it was the right one. It fits into a plain hole in the speed control lever.

 

Richard

 

You are welcome to the bits I have left when I get a replacement.

[Amicus]

If you Google for "morse clevis pin" the fourth hit is a .pdf from Teleflex/Morse, wherein that bit is called a "Cable Terminal Pivot" item 31 on the parts diagram, used on pretty well all controls. Your nearest chandler will have it.

 

Edit, different maker but this will fit.

 

http://www.marinemegastore.com/product.asp...at_id=ENGCON001

Edited August 1, 2009 by Amicus

[Tony Brooks]

Thanks Tony. The broken bit looks like one of these:

But without the top hat bush. I'd order the one in the picture if I knew it was the right one. It fits into a plain hole in the speed control lever.

 

Richard

 

You are welcome to the bits I have left when I get a replacement.

 

 

Do you know, I have never seen a control with those bushes.

 

I think I would measure the outer diameter of the bush or of the thinner part of the trunnion and then go to a chandlers. I think there is a good chance that the thinner part of a new trunnion is either the same as the OD of your bush (ID of hole in arm) or a little larger than the original trunnion so it takes the place of the bush as well as the original trunnion.

[RLWP]

Do you know, I have never seen a control with those bushes.

 

I think I would measure the outer diameter of the bush or of the thinner part of the trunnion and then go to a chandlers. I think there is a good chance that the thinner part of a new trunnion is either the same as the OD of your bush (ID of hole in arm) or a little larger than the original trunnion so it takes the place of the bush as well as the original trunnion.

 

Thanks Tony,

 

I'll take the bits to a chandler. I have taken the arm off the control so I can check the spigot diameter when I'm there.

 

If that fails I'll set to and make one.

 

Richard

[RLWP]

Well, I have now bought and replaced the trunnion on Tawny Owl for £2.40 (Midland Chandlers). If anyone is contemplating doing this be aware that they come in different spigot lengths, ours being a short one. I took the lever with me to make sure. I suppose that if you don't know, buy a long one and use washers to pack out the slack.

 

I thought you might like to see what the consequence of not maintaining the engine controls is:

 

 

Richard

 

Tony, are you still interested in the broken bits?