Lister petter Lpws3 exhaust spitting/ leak

[Tony Brooks]

51 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

Apologies Tony if I haven’t quite understood exactly your point. I’m just relaying what the engineer told me. 

 

thanks for advice on the rest, i do really appreciate it!

 

I am in no way questioning what you think you were told but there is so much in what you reported that makes me question how much the "engineer" really knew. I am sceptical about any canal based engineer unless I know them and their work personally.

 

When the gasket fails at the back of the exhaust manifold the coolant leaks into the exhaust duct, not out of the top of the gasket, or did the leaks it will not be enough to make clouds of steam. Where there may be clouds of steam is inside the exhaust and coming out the back of the boat, not into the engine bay.

 

Likewise, claiming clouds of steam will be caused by coolant leaking from the header tank is also fanciful UNLESS so much is lost the engine boils. If coolant leaking from the header tank hit the hot part of the exhaust manifold it would produce steam but at the rate of water loss you stated it would not be clouds, just some steam. Also, liquid from such a leak simply can't get into the exhaust UNLESS it gets sucked into the intake and passes right through the engine.

 

I think our ex Lister friend knows a lot more about those engines than the RCR bod. It sounds to me as if you may be getting lined up for a hefty bill. Please check that gasket or get it checked before you let anyone take the head off. It is likely to be an easy DIY job once you have the new gasket that is likely to cost well under £10 rather than well into three figures. If your engineer uses a tell-tale liquid and detects hydrocarbons in the exhaust then there is a point in taking the head off.

 

 

 

 

 

[Peugeot 106]

Tgno I now vert feel guilty as I suggested RCR and I am not in the least impressed with what he said. Assuming you told him about the manifold gasket could he not even be bothered to look? What exactly did he do for your £40?

 

Of all the engineers on this forum Tony is one of the best and most reliable and I would definitely listen to him. I am only an amateur with experience of an  Alpha engine though I have a lot of experience with mine as I am pretty anal about fixing it and looking after it. I only came up with the manifold gasket because I had read it somewhere and it makes sense.  Presumably S knows what he's talking about he sounds very plausible

 

I only mentioned the head gasket as worth looking at if you had explored other much simpler possibilities.

 

Tony if the head gasket had gone would it be possible for big bubbles in the header tank to make it overflow and also if it was only firing on two cylinders for water to be forced into the cylinder and then some of it out of the exhaust??

 

But. Replacing the head without looking at it seems extreme to say the least (Probably £250 for another bad second hand one if its knackered). Unless he wants to do it all in the same morning and takes your old head in part exchange. To get it skimmed would only be around £100 - you can look up prices on the web and refurbing the valves is not expensive. 

To give you an idea I could change the head in about half a day and a decoke gasket set (original equipment) is £70. If you want to use new bolts add another £30. Ask Sleeman Hawken and give your serial no. (you can get it a lot cheaper if you don't use lister parts. The engine can normally remain in place its just the top parts and the water pump at the front to take off. I imagine S would be a LOT faster. 

 

But I would get another engineers opinion and definitely check the manifold gasket. It might be fine or not have the slot in it but why worry just do it. Again get a new gasket off Sleeman it won't take any harm to change it. It'll cost around £5 and you'll get it return post. Have you got a 13mm or adjustable spanner? (warning if you find you have to force it don't)

 

Anyway thank you for keeping us up to date. Where are you somebody may know a decent engineer near you

 

Assuming I know what went on I must say I am very disappointed in the RCR engineer. 

 

Tony is your man though hopefully you will get the odd nugget from the rest of us. He is man enough to accept suggestions. I think he is mainly a BMC man but loads of experience holding peoples hands I'm not dissing anybody else as there are loads of helpful people on here but Tracy D'Arth has also been very good although I don't think you have come across her yet

 

very worried in case I am talking bollocks and I really don't want to confuse you. I'm sure I will be put in my place shortly!!

 

Anyway Good luck

[Tgno3]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I am in no way questioning what you think you were told but there is so much in what you reported that makes me question how much the "engineer" really knew. I am sceptical about any canal based engineer unless I know them and their work personally.

 

When the gasket fails at the back of the exhaust manifold the coolant leaks into the exhaust duct, not out of the top of the gasket, or did the leaks it will not be enough to make clouds of steam. Where there may be clouds of steam is inside the exhaust and coming out the back of the boat, not into the engine bay.

 

Likewise, claiming clouds of steam will be caused by coolant leaking from the header tank is also fanciful UNLESS so much is lost the engine boils. If coolant leaking from the header tank hit the hot part of the exhaust manifold it would produce steam but at the rate of water loss you stated it would not be clouds, just some steam. Also, liquid from such a leak simply can't get into the exhaust UNLESS it gets sucked into the intake and passes right through the engine.

 

I think our ex Lister friend knows a lot more about those engines than the RCR bod. It sounds to me as if you may be getting lined up for a hefty bill. Please check that gasket or get it checked before you let anyone take the head off. It is likely to be an easy DIY job once you have the new gasket that is likely to cost well under £10 rather than well into three figures. If your engineer uses a tell-tale liquid and detects hydrocarbons in the exhaust then there is a point in taking the head off.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Tony, totally didn’t take it like that don’t worry! You folks know WAY more than I do so I’m just trying to absorb everything. 

 

My actual engineer who knows my engine and know him from years of work on my mates boat amongst other boats I know. The tricky thing is that he only goes as far to a certain area of London but thankfully happen to be there now. I’m going to get him round to diagnose with his own eyes and get him to test it. 
 

I did tell the rcr guy about the manifold and requested that he looked at it but he didn’t even come with tools and asked a colleague over the phone for confirmation so off the bat I was instantly not reassured of his diagnosis. 

 

 

 

[Alan de Enfield]

2 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

I did tell the rcr guy about the manifold and requested that he looked at it but he didn’t even come with tools and asked a colleague over the phone for confirmation so off the bat I was instantly not reassured of his diagnosis. 

 

 

The more you tell us the more we know that you REALLY did call in RCR - nobody could make this stuff up.

[Tgno3]

20 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Tgno I now vert feel guilty as I suggested RCR and I am not in the least impressed with what he said. Assuming you told him about the manifold gasket could he not even be bothered to look? What exactly did he do for your £40?

 

Of all the engineers on this forum Tony is one of the best and most reliable and I would definitely listen to him. I am only an amateur with experience of an  Alpha engine though I have a lot of experience with mine as I am pretty anal about fixing it and looking after it. I only came up with the manifold gasket because I had read it somewhere and it makes sense.  Presumably S knows what he's talking about he sounds very plausible

 

I only mentioned the head gasket as worth looking at if you had explored other much simpler possibilities.

 

Tony if the head gasket had gone would it be possible for big bubbles in the header tank to make it overflow and also if it was only firing on two cylinders for water to be forced into the cylinder and then some of it out of the exhaust??

 

But. Replacing the head without looking at it seems extreme to say the least (Probably £250 for another bad second hand one if its knackered). Unless he wants to do it all in the same morning and takes your old head in part exchange. To get it skimmed would only be around £100 - you can look up prices on the web and refurbing the valves is not expensive. 

To give you an idea I could change the head in about half a day and a decoke gasket set (original equipment) is £70. If you want to use new bolts add another £30. Ask Sleeman Hawken and give your serial no. (you can get it a lot cheaper if you don't use lister parts. The engine can normally remain in place its just the top parts and the water pump at the front to take off. I imagine S would be a LOT faster. 

 

But I would get another engineers opinion and definitely check the manifold gasket. It might be fine or not have the slot in it but why worry just do it. Again get a new gasket off Sleeman it won't take any harm to change it. It'll cost around £5 and you'll get it return post. Have you got a 13mm or adjustable spanner? (warning if you find you have to force it don't)

 

Anyway thank you for keeping us up to date. Where are you somebody may know a decent engineer near you

 

Assuming I know what went on I must say I am very disappointed in the RCR engineer. 

 

Tony is your man though hopefully you will get the odd nugget from the rest of us. He is man enough to accept suggestions. I think he is mainly a BMC man but loads of experience holding peoples hands I'm not dissing anybody else as there are loads of helpful people on here but Tracy D'Arth has also been very good although I don't think you have come across her yet

 

very worried in case I am talking bollocks and I really don't want to confuse you. I'm sure I will be put in my place shortly!!

 

Anyway Good luck

Don’t feel bad, shit happens and this is the price you pay if you have no idea what you are dealing with and learning as you go (I.e -me)

 

BUT that being said replacing the head without looking at it even to me sounds mad and I’m not willing to just Willy nilly agree to an engineer who came with no tools that his diagnosis is correct! 
 

I can tell you folks kno what you are talking about so in no way disregarding that I’m completely on board with the suggestions and advice, I’ll that over this bloke that turned up today any day!!!

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3

[Alan de Enfield]

5 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

engineer

 

 

Did he look like this ?

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

22 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Tony if the head gasket had gone would it be possible for big bubbles in the header tank to make it overflow and also if it was only firing on two cylinders for water to be forced into the cylinder and then some of it out of the exhaust??

 

First off thank you for that accolade, but there are far better practical engineers than me on this forum. I work from the theory I know, add my practical experience and try to apply it to other engines.

 

The trouble with leaking head gaskets is that the symptoms vary so much. If the leak is more of a weep then at idle it might cause no problems whereas at speed it might cause overheating and/or water loss. We have been told there are no oil galleries in the block or head so a lot of oil in the coolant is unlikely at this stage, but there may be a very thin film of oil on/in the coolant that came from combustion gasses. Any thoughts of looking for emulsified oil I don't think will help in this case. At present, I am sitting on the fence head gasket wise unless some better proof comes up, like hydrocarbons in the coolant.

 

If it still starts easily from cold I would be less inclined to think anything that looses compression, but at the same time poorly injectors are likely to delay the start a few turns and lead to whitish smoke.

 

If the OP or his engineer has a cooling system pressure tester I think I would get the engine up to running temperature with the pressure cap off, then fit the pressure tester and run under load. If the pressure keeps rising then it is a fair bet the head gasket is leaking.

 

I also thank the OP for his continued feedback because we all learn from it.

[Peugeot 106]

On 02/01/2023 at 19:02, Tgno3 said:

coolant lost after running is usually about 5- 10mm depending on how long I’ve ran her for from the max line in the header tank, even if I’ve been running for a few hours and even under load it never goes down more than this. 

- overall the levels of oil/ coolant don’t dramatically go down sometimes they don’t go down at all.

Tony is this coolant loss out of the top of the expansion tank caused by bubbles from the head gasket or is all the water leaving via the exhaust. An airlock could complicate looking for bubbles. Or is this a red herring as could be the oil leaks in the bilge which could be normal for his engine but he has only just noticed because of other problems

• Member
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• Tgno3

Posted Monday at 12:44

"Ok- what would be the cause for the misfiring ? Apologies for my lack of knowledge "

Is one cylinder misfiring and blasting steam out when it fires but water when it doesn't fire 

water when idling low temp, steam on high revs hot

 

Or is one cylinder not firing at all for the inexperienced its not always obvious

 

Still wish he'd just check the manifold gasket - could save a lot of bother!!

 

apologies post is a bit messy - hope you get my gist and interested in your reaction

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

46 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Tony is this coolant loss out of the top of the expansion tank caused by bubbles from the head gasket or is all the water leaving via the exhaust. An airlock could complicate looking for bubbles. Or is this a red herring as could be the oil leaks in the bilge which could be normal for his engine but he has only just noticed because of other problems

 

 

This is the whole problem, I do not know. It could be:

 

The OP overfilling his header tank so water is ejected as it heats and expands.

 

An airlock or an unvented skin tank because air/gas expands more than water when heated.

 

Or, as you say a leaking head gasket, but 5 to 10mm water (less than half an inch) seems low for a head gasket unless the OP has not run the engine for long.

 

Then we have the suggestion that a gasket might have failed allowing water to enter the exhaust.

 

I have explained how to establish the correct top-up level and don't know if the OP has done this yet.

It should not be too difficult to ensure the skin tank has been bled so I would try that to eliminate it as a cause of coolant loss. Likewise, fitting a new exhaust gasket eliminates another potential cause.

 

Even the alleged oil leak may not be all that it seems. Most boats seem to have at least some oil/fuel in the drip tray and often the bilge. The OP seems to be at the start of his learning journey, so he may not realize that a coolant/water leak into the drip tray/bilge is likely to build up with an oily film on top, so it is easy to think it is an oil leak. I would want to clean and dry the drip tray/bilge, line with paper so the rough location and type of any leak can be identified. At this stage I am not so sure that this needs worrying about until the oily drops form the exhaust and the smoke is cured,

We can't even be sure there is a misfire. I asked for the symptoms and have not got an answer. As I read it the OP is taking the smoke on starting and revving to indicate a misfire. He, or his mechanic should really get the smoke and then loosen and tighten each injector pipe in turn to see if a cylinder is not firing properly.  That is unless someone with experience listens to the engine and confirms it is a misfire. If so the relevant injector needs taking out and testing/overhauling.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[Peugeot 106]

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

This is the whole problem, I do not know. It could be:

 

The OP overfilling his header tank so water is ejected as it heats and expands.

 

An airlock or an unvented skin tank because air/gas expands more than water when heated.

 

Or, as you say a leaking head gasket, but 5 to 10mm water (less than half an inch) seems low for a head gasket unless the OP has not run the engine for long.

 

Then we have the suggestion that a gasket might have failed allowing water to enter the exhaust.

 

I have explained how to establish the correct top-up level and don't know if the OP has done this yet.

It should not be too difficult to ensure the skin tank has been bled so I would try that to eliminate it as a cause of coolant loss. Likewise, fitting a new exhaust gasket eliminates another potential cause.

 

Even the alleged oil leak may not be all that it seems. Most boats seem to have at least some oil/fuel in the drip tray and often the bilge. The OP seems to be at the start of his learning journey, so he may not realize that a coolant/water leak into the drip tray/bilge is likely to build up with an oily film on top, so it is easy to think it is an oil leak. I would want to clean and dry the drip tray/bilge, line with paper so the rough location and type of any leak can be identified. At this stage I am not so sure that this needs worrying about until the oily drops form the exhaust and the smoke is cured,

We can't even be sure there is a misfire. I asked for the symptoms and have not got an answer. As I read it the OP is taking the smoke on starting and revving to indicate a misfire. He, or his mechanic should really get the smoke and then loosen and tighten each injector pipe in turn to see if a cylinder is not firing properly.  That is unless someone with experience listens to the engine and confirms it is a misfire. If so the relevant injector needs taking out and testing/overhauling.

 

 

 

 

My maybe daft theory assuming water loss is actually through exhaust not expansion tank

 

Head gasket leak across water gallery

 

1) Suction Stroke

small amount water sucked into cylinder. Suction reduced because Inlet port open

2) Compression  Stroke

Small amount water compressed with fuel  leading to

3) Power Stroke

Misfire due to water

Both Valves closed so much more water sucked into cylinder

4) Exhaust Stroke

Exhaust valve open water blasted into exhaust turning to steam at high revs

 

Only thing I can't explain is why Diesel and small amount of water aren't forced into the coolant on the compression stroke

 

Thank you for patience. Can you tell me what you think or are you fed up? 

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

My maybe daft theory assuming water loss is actually through exhaust not expansion tank

 

Head gasket leak across water gallery

 

1) Suction Stroke

small amount water sucked into cylinder. Suction reduced because Inlet port open

2) Compression  Stroke

Small amount water compressed with fuel  leading to

3) Power Stroke

Misfire due to water

Both Valves closed so much more water sucked into cylinder

4) Exhaust Stroke

Exhaust valve open water blasted into exhaust turning to steam at high revs

 

Only thing I can't explain is why Diesel and small amount of water aren't forced into the coolant on the compression stroke

 

Thank you for patience. Can you tell me what you think or are you fed up? 

 

Firstly no modern diesel has a throttle butterfly or even any sort of venturi in the inlet tract, so the only things that might cause much of a suction on the induction stroke are frictional losses from the air flow and the air filter. So, not much suction as one would normally understand it.

 

We can only be talking about a small amount of water given the comparatively small water loos - if it is not caused by overfilling.

 

Diesel self ignites a bit shy of 300C and I think I recall the temperature in the cylinder at the end of compression is around 400C so the water will be steam before any fuel is injected. In theory given enough water the heat needed to vaporize it MIGHT lower the air temperature so the diesel can not ignite, but there is no mention of poor starting. You can't stop an injector working with water in the cylinder like you can a spark plug.

 

If there is a little water in the cylinder (it can only be a little, otherwise the piston will hydraulic and stop the engine all but dead - that can destroy pistons and connecting rods) it will be steam long before the exhaust valve opens.

 

One must bear in mind that one hot the coolant pressure should be between about 4psi and about 16 psi depending upon the coolant pressure cap, so that would help force some water into the cylinder, but not when the engine is cold.

 

I think that your proposal may well hold true for a petrol engine but find it far less convincing for a modern diesel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tgno3]

Hiya sorry catching up-

 

- The drip tray has also had a very small amount of oily coolant. Since owning the boat (bought in Jan) the level of this stayed the same, cleared it out in Aug, the engineer who done the service notified me that it was mainly coolant and it was probably from me over filling the tank, which- I thought I wasn’t doing because I was filling up to the line. He didn’t explain what Tony you have kindly explained which I know and understand now.

 

- since Aug there has been a small amount of liquid in the bilge ( i was unsure of what it was but assumed was coolant) so stupidly didn’t think anything of it as it seemed to building up v v v v gradually and slowly 

 

-it wasn’t until about a month ago I was in bed and I could just hear dripping either after a cruise or after charging bats in neutral. On closer inspection I saw quite a lot more build up of liquid in the bilge. I cleaned out and like you said Tony tried to figure out where the drops were coming from with paper towel. one of which I could definitely find was underneath the header tank, it looks like it was coming from the cap, hence the new header cap.

 

- with the new header cap I could still hear a drip at night (driving me mental).

 So got my normal engineer out and he found a leak on the fuel injector banjo bolt, so the bilge was a combination of coolant and diesel he told me. I also notified him of the exhaust spitting (it wasn’t even as half bad as it is now at this point) and he said keep an eye but could potentially be a few things but might be bore glazing which is common with CCers, said if it gets worse call me asap. (I would have got him out today but he wasn’t about, he is quite busy so would have to wait, guess that’s a good sign) 

 

all of the above as previously said (except the exhaust) I’m aware may not be linked or if they are it’s general maintenance rather than my specific problem with the emulsified oil coming out of exhaust.

 
you are completely right I have no idea what a misfire sounds like. I’ve had a be classic 1966 vw beetle and I certainly kno what that sounds like to misfire but we are talking about a diesel engine so assuming it’s potentially not the same ? 
 

I am going to test the correct top up level

 

Sorry lots of info but aware you need as much detail as poss, sorry if I’m missing stuff in my replies,

 

Thanks again, T 

FYI I have no problems starting her up from cold, (nearly) always starts 1st turn of key on cold days 2 turns of key 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

Hiya sorry catching up-

 

- The drip tray has also had a very small amount of oily coolant. Since owning the boat (bought in Jan) the level of this stayed the same, cleared it out in Aug, the engineer who done the service notified me that it was mainly coolant and it was probably from me over filling the tank, which- I thought I wasn’t doing because I was filling up to the line. He didn’t explain what Tony you have kindly explained which I know and understand now.

 

- since Aug there was a small drop ( i was unsure of what it was but assumed was coolant) so stupidly didn’t think anything of it as it seemed to building up v v v v gradually and slowly 

 

-it wasn’t until about a month ago I was in bed and I could just hear dripping either after a cruise or after charging bats in neutral. On closer inspection I saw quite a lot more build up on liquid in the bilge. I cleaned out and like you said Tony tried to figure out where drop was coming from, one of which I could definitely find was underneath the header tank, it looks like it was coming from the cap, hence the new header cap.

 

- with the new header cap I could still hear a drip at night (driving me mental).

 So got my normal engineer out and he found a leak on the fuel injector banjo bolt, so the bilge was a combination of coolant and diesel he told me. I also noticed him of the exhaust spitting (it wasn’t even as half bad as it is now at this point) and he said keep an eye but could potentially be a few things but might be bore glazing which is common with CCers, said if it gets worse call me asap. (I would have got him out today but he wasn’t about, he is quite busy so would have to wait, guess that’s a good sign) 

 

all of the above as previously said (except the exhaust) I’m aware may not be linked or if they are it’s general maintenance rather than my specific problem with the emulsified oil out of exhaust.

 
you are completely right I have no idea what a misfire sounds like. I’ve had a be classic beetle and I certainly kno what that sounds like to misfire but we are talking about a diesel engine so assuming it’s potentially not the same ? 
 

I am get to test the correct top up level but will do in the next coming days 

 

Sorry lots of info but aware you need as much detail as poss, sorry if I’m missing stuff in my replies,

 

Thanks again, T 

 

 

Don't worry about not replying to all the questions.

 

I find it hard to believe that a leaking fuel banjo washer could cause a drip you can hear in bed. Maybe a single very infrequent drip.

Once the engine is cold there should be no pressure in the coolant to cause a leak that was no prominent when it is hot and thus pressurized. I am afraid it will be time-consuming to identify the drip.

 

This may sound completely bonkers but do you know what ducks eating the weed around the waterline sounds like?

 

Apart from the fact the cylinder orientation and number is different so the sound/vibrations of a misfire may be different between the two engines they should be near enough to identify a misfire. A three pot will naturally jump about a bit more than a four but when running properly, but it will jump about even more and sound more uneven when being revved, so you should recognize a likely misfire. You confirm the cylinder in the same way except instead of pulling plug leads off you loosen and tighten each main injector pipe union in turn.

 

Be aware that diesel do have a distinctive knock, even when running well, so don't let that fool you into thinking it is a misfire.

[Tgno3]

On 02/01/2023 at 19:44, Peugeot 106 said:

You will lose coolant if the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. The water pump turns a lot slower on tickover so you may not lose so much or any coolant when running slowly. Is there any reason why you can’t undo the 4 nuts and pull the flanges apart? The exhaust should be flexible at this point and it should all be accessible you just need a M8 spanner (13mm). If they won’t come undone (be careful not to strip them or break the studs) soak overnight in penetrating oil or apply heat to the nuts. 

 

 

 

 

 

The exhaust isn’t flexible at this point, would it still b ok to take apart, am slightly concerned I don’t REALLY know what I am doing so a bit anxious about just un doing it so urring on side of caution to wait for engineer 

[Tgno3]

10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

Don't worry about not replying to all the questions.

 

I find it hard to believe that a leaking fuel banjo washer could cause a drip you can hear in bed. Maybe a single very infrequent drip.

Once the engine is cold there should be no pressure in the coolant to cause a leak that was no prominent when it is hot and thus pressurized. I am afraid it will be time-consuming to identify the drip.

 

This may sound completely bonkers but do you know what ducks eating the weed around the waterline sounds like?

 

Apart from the fact the cylinder orientation and number is different so the sound/vibrations of a misfire may be different between the two engines they should be near enough to identify a misfire. A three pot will naturally jump about a bit more than a four but when running properly, but it will jump about even more and sound more uneven when being revved, so you should recognize a likely misfire. You confirm the cylinder in the same way except instead of pulling plug leads off you loosen and tighten each main injector pipe union in turn.

 

Be aware that diesel do have a distinctive knock, even when running well, so don't let that fool you into thinking it is a misfire.

It is a single drip, infrequent but 1000000% coming from engine bay and something is dripping into bilge and no ducks in sight 😂😅 on few occasions I’ve been in my pjs in the engine bay trying to listen/ see where it’s coming from 

 

hmm ok regrading misfire I’m unsure but will run by my engineer 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3

[Tony Brooks]

1 minute ago, Tgno3 said:

The exhaust isn’t flexible at this point, would it still b ok to take apart, am slightly concerned I don’t REALLY know what I am doing so a bit anxious about just un doing it so urring on side of caution to wait for engineer 

 

There really should be a flexible between that flange and the point where the exhaust becomes fixed. If there is not then the exhaust is likely to crack, often the end of the silencer. Exhaust flexible are really not very flexible and when wrapped could be taken for a rigid pipe,  especially when they are older. The only way you will find out is to unwrap the bandage. Wet it because it just might be asbestos, but it is far more likely to be glass fibre so safe.

[Tgno3]

1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

There really should be a flexible between that flange and the point where the exhaust becomes fixed. If there is not then the exhaust is likely to crack, often the end of the silencer. Exhaust flexible are really not very flexible and when wrapped could be taken for a rigid pipe,  especially when they are older. The only way you will find out is to unwrap the bandage. Wet it because it just might be asbestos, but it is far more likely to be glass fibre so safe.

Ok I will have a look in daylight tmrw 

thanks Tony 

[Tony Brooks]

3 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

It is a single drip, infrequent but 1000000% coming from engine bay and something is dripping into bilge and no ducks in sight 😂😅 on few occasions I’ve been in my pjs in the engine bay trying to listen/ see where it’s coming from 

 

hmm ok regrading misfire I’m unsure but will run my engineer 

 

What type of stern? If it is a cruiser or semi-trad, at this time of year your drips could be condensation, especially with a falling temperature. If it relates to rain or drizzle then it might be a self draining system that is not draining overboard.

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[Tgno3]

3 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

What type of stern? If it is a cruiser or semi-trad, at this time of year your drips could be condensation, especially with a falling temperature.

Have mentally logged when it happens and it happens regardless of rain/ dry. Only correlation is when I had the engine running 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, Tgno3 said:

It’s trad, I could hear the drip before the change of season, not as much as now though 

 

So it has to be torch, mirror, cleaning/drying and careful inspection.

[Peugeot 106]

7 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

The exhaust isn’t flexible at this point, would it still b ok to take apart, am slightly concerned I don’t REALLY know what I am doing so a bit anxious about just un doing it so urring on side of caution to wait for engineer 

Go for it. those are the 4 M8 nuts!. I think/hope you will find that the exhaust as I previously said under the white glass fibre is braided hose. You don't need to take the insulation off just undo the nuts and waggle the  white covered pipe out of the way. You will I'm sure find its flexible braided stainless steel don't worry it is virtually impossible to break There should be a fibre gasket held between the flanges (square flat surfaces) held in place by the studs (bolts). Gasket should look probably similar to  brown card . It should be solid , undamaged with no holes apart from the 4 stud holes. If it looks at all knackered or has any holes in it get a new one.

The nuts look pretty new so should come off easily. If you use a spanner you should be OK and not strip anything. If you have to use an adjustable spanner take care as they are longer and hence put more force on the nut. I am only saying be careful with the nuts out of caution as I don't think you are familiar with spanner work. Even if you did strip one it is not total disaster. They can be fixed

When you undo the nuts the nut may stay on the  stud (bolty bit) . Thats fine just wind the whole thing out. It'll only take you 5 mins probably!

I am waiting with bated breath. Well done.

I've got fingers crossed for you!

[Peugeot 106]

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

What type of stern? If it is a cruiser or semi-trad, at this time of year your drips could be condensation, especially with a falling temperature. If it relates to rain or drizzle then it might be a self draining system that is not draining overboard.

Dripping Stern Gland? Stick your blue paper under the bronze (yellow) thing that the shaft disapperars into and the grease tube is plugged into

 

BLUE PAPER UNDER HERE

 

[Tgno3]

19 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

Go for it. those are the 4 M8 nuts!. I think/hope you will find that the exhaust as I previously said under the white glass fibre is braided hose. You don't need to take the insulation off just undo the nuts and waggle the  white covered pipe out of the way. You will I'm sure find its flexible braided stainless steel don't worry it is virtually impossible to break There should be a fibre gasket held between the flanges (square flat surfaces) held in place by the studs (bolts). Gasket should look probably similar to  brown card . It should be solid , undamaged with no holes apart from the 4 stud holes. If it looks at all knackered or has any holes in it get a new one.

The nuts look pretty new so should come off easily. If you use a spanner you should be OK and not strip anything. If you have to use an adjustable spanner take care as they are longer and hence put more force on the nut. I am only saying be careful with the nuts out of caution as I don't think you are familiar with spanner work. Even if you did strip one it is not total disaster. They can be fixed

When you undo the nuts the nut may stay on the  stud (bolty bit) . Thats fine just wind the whole thing out. It'll only take you 5 mins probably!

I am waiting with bated breath. Well done.

I've got fingers crossed for you!

Well this is the annoying thing by trade I’m a woodworker (furniture) and very used to being able to fix everything I just need to confidence to use some transferable skills ! Silly really 
 

it’s not the stern I have a plastic bucket underneath and it’s currentely bone dry ! Spose that’s one good thing 

 

can trade skills- anyone need any wood work advice or upholstery advice I am here ! 
 

ps thanks for the encouragement, might even pop to work to collect the right sized spanners tmz 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3

[Peugeot 106]

4 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

Well this is the annoying thing by trade I’m a woodworker (furniture) and very used to being able to fix everything I just need to confidence to use some transferable skills ! Silly really 
 

it’s not the stern I have a plastic bucket underneath and it’s currentely bone dry ! Spose that’s one good thing 

 

can trade skills- anyone need any wood work advice or upholstery advice I am here ! 

I was a salesman by trade and a not very good at but try nearly everything including boatbuilding, (10 sailing dinghies) plastering, electrical, plumbing, cabinet making, roofing, rebuilt a 200 year old house sewing, (sewed own sails)welding, ( city and guilds sat mornings for fun)metal turning/ milling (using local college machines on Monday nights)etc etc. I find it all fascinating and am reasonably competent though others would refute this. You wouldn’t want to pay me by the hour though!!!?? At school and college I always had part time jobs so I suppose have gained experience. 

 

An m8 bolt on your boat is no different to a 8mm coach bolt in woodwork. I’m just counselling you not to be daft if the nuts or studs are stuck

i’d be surprised if the pipe isn’t a flexible the hex end looks identical to mine and the way these engines shake it would crack pretty quickly if it was solid. To be safe unwrap a little bit as a Tony says.

[Tgno3]

20 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

I was a salesman by trade and a not very good at but try nearly everything including boatbuilding, (10 sailing dinghies) plastering, electrical, plumbing, cabinet making, roofing, rebuilt a 200 year old house sewing, (sewed own sails)welding, ( city and guilds sat mornings for fun)metal turning/ milling (using local college machines on Monday nights)etc etc. I find it all fascinating and am reasonably competent though others would refute this. You wouldn’t want to pay me by the hour though!!!?? At school and college I always had part time jobs so I suppose have gained experience. 

 

An m8 bolt on your boat is no different to a 8mm coach bolt in woodwork. I’m just counselling you not to be daft if the nuts or studs are stuck

i’d be surprised if the pipe isn’t a flexible the hex end looks identical to mine and the way these engines shake it would crack pretty quickly if it was solid. To be safe unwrap a little bit as a Tony says.

well you certainly have persuasion skills !

I also find it interesting hence asking so many questions and wanting to figure it out.  

I’m going to have a bash at it, worse case scenario the engineer who is already coming out can fix but sounds like not much can go wrong ? Whilst I’m at it I’ll re wrap the exhaust in new wrap 

 

Edited January 4, 2023 by Tgno3