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garym999

Water Pump Pulley??

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3 minutes ago, garym999 said:

True enough and point taken

;)

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Well I know it is not a 1.5D crank pulley on that engine.

I have seen a thin, 3mm spacer behind the pump pulley sometimes, seems to depend on the pump.

The drive flange and the "spacer" on that water pump are not BMC parts.

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10 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Well I know it is not a 1.5D crank pulley on that engine.

I have seen a thin, 3mm spacer behind the pump pulley sometimes, seems to depend on the pump.

The drive flange and the "spacer" on that water pump are not BMC parts.

Yet I have seen many BMC 1.5 engines with that pulley. I'm trying to remember when I saw anything else that wasn't fitted to run something else - a raw water pump or a double belt for an alternator for instance
 

About 1/8" sounds right for a spacer on a pump pulley, I've come across that

 

Richard

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I've seen and got on my engine the double water pump pulley that slows the pump rate and leaves a pulley for the raw water pump.

Mine had a small pulley mounted on the crankshaft bolt for a Jabsco pump and that bolt on the OP's looks like that with the spindle sawn off.

The 1.5D crank pulley has a balance weight and rubber harmonic bonding that protrudes from the front face, the 1,8D pulley is a lot bigger in diameter, flat across front and back with a narrow rubber bonding.

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For clarity, the black water pump shown is a new 60mm one from Calcutt. I did not conduct accurate measurments but in the 3rd picture you see a step in the casting. From there to the flange was the same distance as the pump fitted on the boat if I recall of course that is not the same as measuring to some reference point on the engine.

 

As it looks as though I might be taking the crank pulley off, I need a spanner or socket to fit the bolt mine dont go that large. I read that is 1 5/16th AF does that sound right? Would be good to have some means of rotating the engine by hand.

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4 minutes ago, garym999 said:

For clarity, the black water pump shown is a new 60mm one from Calcutt. I did not conduct accurate measurments but in the 3rd picture you see a step in the casting. From there to the flange was the same distance as the pump fitted on the boat if I recall of course that is not the same as measuring to some reference point on the engine.

 

As it looks as though I might be taking the crank pulley off, I need a spanner or socket to fit the bolt mine dont go that large. I read that is 1 5/16th AF does that sound right? Would be good to have some means of rotating the engine by hand.

The new pump looks right but the impeller size you will only know when you see if it fits in the block properly. The bolt head behind the pulley should be about 10mm clear of the pulley from memory and I think you may need that 3mm spacer washer. Grease or Hylomar on both sides of the gasket. 1 bolt also holds the timing cover, half and half.

 

The crank bolt is tight. As everything else its a cock up,  measure the bolt, it may not be 1 5/16" as it should be. I have a feeling that a Calor spanner used on propane  is that size, maybe.

 

Lock the crank by putting a bar like a chisel in the teeth of the starter ring against the housing in the starter motor hole,

pull the engine stop out before you start, the engine could start if you turn it with a spanner, not a good idea ( remember to push it back before you try to start..........

Wear thick gloves incase anything slips, some of the castings have sharp edges

 

If the front oil seal is leaking it is possible to hook it out and replace it in situ, its an imperial size, not metric. Grease it on the lips before fitting the pulley.

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18 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

pull the engine stop out before you start, the engine could start if you turn it with a spanner

 

Sam thanks for the advice, especially the above! Obvious really but its all to easy to take things for granted and thats when you get bitten.

 

As the starter motor is off for referb I think I'll take the pulley off.

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1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:

 

If the front oil seal is leaking it is possible to hook it out and replace it in situ, 

Are you sure it isn't pushed into the back of the pressed steel timing chain cover?

 

Richard

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29 minutes ago, RLWP said:

Are you sure it isn't pushed into the back of the pressed steel timing chain cover?

 

Richard

Now Richard you are making me think harder and its late in the day. Lets just say you may be correct, I would have to consult the manual. I remember at least one timing cover that you can push the seal right through and some with an internal lip.

Then of course there is the Rootes engines without any oil seal!

Is the 1.5D not a cast ally cover?

If I have misled the OP, sorry I do my best.

 

Consulted the big book, you are correct.

 

The 1.5D has a pressed tin front cover and the seal is fitted on the inside.

Its the 1.8D which I am more familiar with that has an ally chain cover.

 

Sorry to get confused, senior moment.  But do bear in mind that this engine was basically designed before I was born!

Sam.

Edited by Boater Sam
added more
  • Greenie 1

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Gents, thanks. What I'm rapidly realising is that on something this old is expect the unexpected and "normal" is loose term. I wont be holding anyone liable, I'm the one in front of the thing. I have to use my judgement with the help of your fine advice.

 

Expect some more questions after my next visit, hopefully this weekend. Hmm just though of one but I raise that in another thread.

  • Greenie 1

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1 minute ago, garym999 said:

Gents, thanks. What I'm rapidly realising is that on something this old is expect the unexpected and "normal" is loose term. I wont be holding anyone liable, I'm the one in front of the thing. I have to use my judgement with the help of your fine advice.

 

Expect some more questions after my next visit, hopefully this weekend. Hmm just though of one but I raise that in another thread.

The reality of these engines is, they are getting on now and often sit in boats at the cheaper end of the market. With owners having limited resources and spares being intermittently available, it is not unusual to find some 'creative solutions' being used

 

I've given up trying to work out why an engine turns up with some of the things they do, I just get on with making them work properly

 

Richard

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So I promised an update once I got back to the boat but I'm sorry to say "I bottled it"!

 

I started by taking some basic measurments of another 1.5 engine (Red) to be found at the marina the boat is currently birthed in. This has an additional drive for a raw water pump mounted on the front of the crank which my engine does not have. From the rear of the water pump pulley to the alternator mount was 46mm. From the timing chain cover to the rear of the crankshaft pulley was 10mm.

 

Taking the spacer washer into account this confirms my thought that the crankshaft pulley has been shifted forward on my engine for some reason, by about 10mm. I then tried to free the crank pulley but due to time constraints and an element of it aint broke (much) this is when I bottled it.

 

The owner was keen to get it up and running and I had the starter motor (referbished again, properly this time) and the referbished alternator to refit. Since my previous visit I had made up a crude packer with my limited woprkshop facilites. At least it offers a little more support than a floating washer.

 

The starter motor had a seizing gear, worn brushes and a sticking solienoid. The alternator, well, became "Triggers Broom" with new insides, regulator with increased output voltage, bearings etc. With these refited the engine fired on the very first turn with 20secs preheat. This is something it has never done before. So as pointed out by you guys a shot starter was the cause of the poor cranking.

 

I'm now hoping that the refit lasts, certainly enough for the boat to get nearer to home so that I can spend more time fixing rather than traveling. Once I get to revisit this I will update the post but for now it appears to be running with an upgraded bodge.

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