garym999

So I got chance to meet up with my sister-n-law to be confrounted with this (see attached pics). Unfortunatly the engineer was not at work being the weekend to discuss. But the therory is that something relating to the valve push rods or the like broke and the resulting part dropped to the sump and jammed against the crank causing it to break. Although I dabble I'm no mechanic but I expected the general condition of the engine to appear a lot worse all gummed up etc. You may well tell me otherwise. So if anyone is interested there is an engine for spares or repair, she would rather that than just selling it for melting down as scrap. A bit of recycliing and hopefully some cash to soften the blow. I'll post it in the forsale section. It used to start instantly since its started motor and upgraded alternator were referbished. It has new glow plugs. It did not smoke and comes with the gearbox. It weaped oil as they all do but did not drink it. I guess this is me signing off the BMC section, but I'm a bit of a lurker. So thanks everyone for help on this little voyage.

That might soften the blow unless the marina have already factored that in.

I’m leaning towards the Canaline too but it’s not my dosh and I’m not sure how much additional integration is needed. From what I have read it comes with gearbox, engine mounts, twin alternators, control panel, gearbox and a 3 year warranty and is a pretty good fit in place of a BMC. It gives a very good and known reference point. Won’t get that with a recon. What value is there in a broke BMC?

The boat will be used all over and has done a bit on the Trent just fine. As you say engine size for this length is not so critical. Reliability is.

Sad to say this has all become short lived. I'm away on hols only to find that the boat broke down with a clonk. After which it could not be started. Luckily the boat was near a marina but upon diagnosis the news is terminal. Lots lost in translation but basically a bottom end failure. Not sure of the cause but it could have been blocked oil ways. So the advice being given is a recon BMC 1.5 (£4K) or a new Canaline 38. Given the boat is being used as a live-on-board with cruising and little onboard mechanical knowledge, reliability is an issue. With only £1k difference in cost and a 3yr warrenty the 38 is looking like a better bet Whats people's thoughts? The boat is 35'

Also just checked the Morris oil beeing used for top-up " SAE 10W-40 classification makes the lubricant suitable for use in all canal boat engines where a SAE 15W-40 may be specified. The SAE 10W-40 properties will ensure that the lubricant flows easier at lower temperatures providing improved component protection " When I get to service it I probably use Morris Golden Film 20W-50 Classic Motor Oil

Thanks, nice and easy to get to in my case. So one of these two (domed one I guess) on the port side.

So the strainer is on the LHS (exhaust side) and PRV on the RHS (oil filter side)? The pictures on the manual I have does not make the location clear Just got a photo back. The oil being used for top up is Morris Marine 10W40. Don’t know what was used for the service

As always thanks gents. I'm not sure what oil was used for the service but the guy was familiar with BMCs so I would hope he used the correct sort. I seem to recall 20W50 but that might be simply from trawling these forums. I'll check to see what the container of top-up oil is, I know its Morris. The running pressure seems to drop during the day from the inital 30-40 to 20ish. I see the cost of a new PRV is not that much so is it worth just replaceing it, does it need to be lapped in, if so what's the best approach. What about the spring, do these ware?

Hi All, Since my last time on here my sister in law has managed 50 hours of river and canal cruising on her own. We met up for days cruise and it gave me a chance to see how the engine was. At at start of the day the oil pressures were fine. 20 psi on idle and 40-60 on cruising. As the day progressed the pressures started fluctuating more but overall getting lower and lower until it would not get much above 20. After a discussion it would appear that this normal behaviour after days cruise. The boat is new to her this year and was supposedly serviced. I trust the electric oil gauge as it is new and fitted by myself. Water temperature seems to top out at about 80c. After a days cruise the engine bay is hot as there is little air ventilation, no side vents etc. The engine weeps oil but nothing alarming and seems to be keeping its levels. Would I be right to suspect the oil pressure relief valve? If so apart from cleaning it what should be done to check/service it?

So I promised an update once I got back to the boat but I'm sorry to say "I bottled it"! I started by taking some basic measurments of another 1.5 engine (Red) to be found at the marina the boat is currently birthed in. This has an additional drive for a raw water pump mounted on the front of the crank which my engine does not have. From the rear of the water pump pulley to the alternator mount was 46mm. From the timing chain cover to the rear of the crankshaft pulley was 10mm. Taking the spacer washer into account this confirms my thought that the crankshaft pulley has been shifted forward on my engine for some reason, by about 10mm. I then tried to free the crank pulley but due to time constraints and an element of it aint broke (much) this is when I bottled it. The owner was keen to get it up and running and I had the starter motor (referbished again, properly this time) and the referbished alternator to refit. Since my previous visit I had made up a crude packer with my limited woprkshop facilites. At least it offers a little more support than a floating washer. The starter motor had a seizing gear, worn brushes and a sticking solienoid. The alternator, well, became "Triggers Broom" with new insides, regulator with increased output voltage, bearings etc. With these refited the engine fired on the very first turn with 20secs preheat. This is something it has never done before. So as pointed out by you guys a shot starter was the cause of the poor cranking. I'm now hoping that the refit lasts, certainly enough for the boat to get nearer to home so that I can spend more time fixing rather than traveling. Once I get to revisit this I will update the post but for now it appears to be running with an upgraded bodge.

Fortunatly they came out without any issue nor showed much in the way of carbon build up. My point was that I did not expect the drill to be a sloppy fit. I would have thought that its size was choosen to match the size of a clean opening.

I'm new to the engine so learning my way around it. I purchased a drill specifically for the job and its 126mm long and it went a long way in. It almost felt like the hole was say 5mm in dia.

Are there different types for this engine? I have recently replaced a set with like for like after finding one dud. I made a nice bus bar make the connections neater and more reliable. During the replacement and refering to the manual and the good advice here. I used a long 11/64 drill to ream out the holes but the drill was a loose as anything down the holes and did not bring anything out. Is this normal? I was expecting the drill to be the exact size of the hole. I should have tried other drills to see what size the bore was but did not have a set with me. This is what I have installed The enging is slow to start due to a poorly starter motor but once these were fitted and all 4 were glowing it was much happier.

Gents, thanks. What I'm rapidly realising is that on something this old is expect the unexpected and "normal" is loose term. I wont be holding anyone liable, I'm the one in front of the thing. I have to use my judgement with the help of your fine advice. Expect some more questions after my next visit, hopefully this weekend. Hmm just though of one but I raise that in another thread.