pistnbroke

KISS .....

yes thats no problem ..just keep the inverter switch off and run two wire from the back of the switch to the thermostat on the fridge which you have isolated from the rest of the wiring. the motor needs to be wired to be on 100% of the time when power is applied ( ie the wires which went to the thermostat need to be joined) Most fridges have a diagram on the back ....

Arthur you have the whole fridge inverter situation to perfection in this post .

This design is still used in plastic portable tanks usually in the centre of the filler... the flat blade below has a 180 deg twist to match the needle movement and the float which cannot rotate rides up and down twisting the central blade

Now he is back we must decide if he is a God , the Son of God or just a Pope so that we will know how to respond if he speaks to his flock again.

sorry wrong topic

no not part of a dynamo the voltage and or current regulator in the control box limits the field current ...where do these crazy ideas come from ....

Its a 50watt 2.2 ohm resistor and after you said that you said it all... you use it for any purpose whers a 2.2 ohm resistor is required with a disipation up to 50 w thats it nothing else to say. Bolted under your coffee mug and supplied with 5v from your USB it would keep your coffee warm .....!!!

put your finger on the stator laminations ...hot hot hot and vibrating ..diodes....or put a bulb from the wl terminal to the b on the alternator ..if its on it 100% diodes

when the diodes go faulty there is an unbalance in the 3 phases which causes the alternator voltage to be lower during the faulty phase output and this causes the light to glow.... If the warning light is glowing its 99.9% chance its the diodes and 0.1% a faulty igniton switch...

Keeping up ..please dont spread rubbish like this around This sounds like the classic symptom of the alternator voltage trying to get above the battery voltage. The more you rev the engine, the more the alternator voltage rises, and the brighter the lamp (whose other side is tied to the battery positive) will glow. The alternator voltge has to be above the battery voltage or it would never charge the battery !!!!! He has diode problems on this alternator which makes the warning light glow it cannot come on if the brushes are faulty but may flash..

Compaired to some of the clapped out narrow boat wrecks you see traveling our canals Solar panels are beautiful...

A dog turd is just as good as radweld...fibre bits block the hole as they circulate in the system ..make sure the engine is hot when you add it and run for a few hrs if possible.

you are not going to make any sense of this unless you give each battery a full charge 24 hrs on a mains charger and then rest 24 hrs ..voltage should be over 12.5v ..get a hydrometer ..one cell lower than all the others ..scrap. 1150 and will not rise Sulphated ....your load test is a bit light ..couple of headlamp bulbs drawing 10 A would be much better..If they are under 12 months old take them back and whats the make so we can avoid. In future use dont abuse.....Batteries are like women you got to treat them right but then unfortunatly they stick around making replacement with a younger model more difficult .......

Certinly standing orders on a submarine to cycle the batteries

I dont know if I said this before but my experience of sealed batteries on cars was that when the magic eye showed clear ( electrolytle level dropped) we prised off the tops and added distilled water. If they were glued on we drilled 10mm holes topped them up and put mushroom gromets in .. usually another couple of years life.

What type of ammeter ..horrible car type or digital ? Sounds like the 501 is right

Its the ends that expand not the sides and once they have expanded its asta la vista any way.

Bad idea sealed batteies not good for your purpose see http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm extract below Fast charging costs water, i.e. if you want to charge you batteries fast, don't touch a Sealed/Gel/AGM etc with a barge pole. Fast charging will result in a certain % water loss from the battery. If the battery is sealed the water loss cannot be replaced. REMEMBER FAST CHARGING AND SEALED/MAINTAINCE-FREE ARE A CONTRADICTION OF TERMS. You may not like this, but tough, it's the way it is.

Biggest olympic threat is the IRA not international terrorists hence restrictions....I would keep well away if I was you ....

the standby current of the inverter is not relavent if the thermostat controls the On/OFF of the inverter rather than the fridge itself I just realized I have exactly that fridge in the garage with little use ..you can have it for £30 about 100m from the canal at Rugby 01788 310500

have not read all of above but what you need to do is to bring the wires for the thremostat out from the fridge and connect them to the on/off switch on the inverter ..then when the thermostat clicks in the inverter comes on and so does the fridge and it all then goes off with the stat ..no standby current ..... You could fit another thhermostat and leave the original on MAX or just short it out ...worked for me The inverter switch does not carry the full DC load just asks the electronics to turn on ...EPLS most frigdes have a wiring diagram stuck on the back .....

Its all here http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/alt_search.php

cheap inverter or not your biggest problem is getting the compressor to start ..if its been off for a while and the pressure has dropped it may start but if its on off on off no chance ..I had a 90w fridge needed a 1kw inverter to start it . My domestic fridge freezer would stall a 2 kw generator ..I eventually built a timer that only allowed the inverter to output every 60 min so in essence the fridge came on for 20 min then off for 40 whilst the pressure dropped ..worked fine in that mode..

there are only two types of battery starting and traction ....all the labels saying leisure dual purpose constitute bullshiiiit ...all you need to know on battery types is here ...http://www.sterling-power.com/support-faq-2.htm eg Watch the term leisure / deep cycle as it simply does not exist. The standard, so called, leisure batteries, are simply starter batteries with extra support for the active lead material. This may increase the life by 5 – 10 %, but does not turn a starter battery into a deep cycle battery.