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micky44

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micky44 last won the day on August 11 2012

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    derby

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    engineer

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  1. Every one must have one of them tucked away under the sink along with the sandwich toaster and breville teas made.
  2. Hi again folks,Please forgive me if the following questions are stupid. I am trying to plan my 24 volt wiring out.The itiems will be water pumps, leds,sockets,etc. the domestic battery bank is located in the engine room, the longest run which would be for the led lights would be approx 40ft from the battery bank, am i really going to need 6mm cable to run to these lights? and if so how on earth am i going to connect 6mm2 to the punny led cables? my water pumps (24volt are situated about 6 foot from the battery bank)once again sorry if i sound stupid, electrickery is NOT my strong point.
  3. Ok will do, thank you both very much for your advice.
  4. Hi every one, some more advice please.I think it would be ok, but better check first. Can i connect my 24 volt dc control pannel directely to the + - terminals on the Sterling Pro Combi,or should I connect directly off the battery bank ? after all the 2 95mm cables from the Inverter go to the battery bank. Thank you for any advice. Micky.
  5. Thanks once again ! when the new fly wheel comes back, i will try what you have suggested and hope for the best
  6. Thank you very much both of you for your advice.The problem i have have is that there is no ignition switch on the 24 volt system, the 24 volt alt is just conected directly to the 24 volt batter bank. Odviously there is a barrery isolation switch between the battery bank and the alt. would it be ok then (perhaps a bodge ) to conect the exciter terminal to a 24 volt switch, then all i would have to do is flick the swicth on for a few seconds till the alt is spinning then switch it off ? also if i did go down this root would i need a bulb in the circuit? i have a volt metre so i could see what the state of charge is.
  7. Some info please, I am attempting to wire up my 24 volt alternator Now the problem is as follows. i have managed to keep my 12 volt alterntor to supply charge to the starter battery, the starter motor is 12 volt, so i just turn the key, she starts and the alt is charging the start battery, thats all fine. but the problem i have is the 24 volt alt is not of course connected to the 12 volt circuit, so when the engine starts the 24 volt alt spins, which is connected at the moment to batt- and batt+ . can i just take a feed of the batt+ to the exciter terminal and leave it connected ? If you can follow all this your a far better person than me,also if i CAN just leave it connected would it be doing any harm. confussed ? not as much as me !
  8. Yes it had to be bought, it weighs 15kg!my engine revs at 1200rpm when i am just going steady, its not too noisey at this speed and does not make the crockery rattle! the lister had a 200mm o/d fly wheel on it, the alternator shaft is 30mm ! i have had a new fly wheel cast twin groove z section, 260mm o/d and managed to get a 67mm pilot bore pulley machined out to 30mm inside o/d with a 8mm key way. This set up has given me a ratio of 3.8 /1 which even on tick over 550rpm gives an alternator spindle speed of 2134 revs, at 1200rpm it gives a alt speed of 4560 rpm, sounds good in theory, will report back when the fly wheel is deleverd . And i have managed to fabricate 2 sets of altenator brackets, one for the feeble 35amp 12 volt altertnator for the starter motor, (could not source a 24 volt starter motor )and of course one for big bertha, still struggling to work out the tensionong on bertha though, as i posted several months, the days of the sr4 plodding along not under load are over! she wont know whats hit her,
  9. Thank you for all your advice, i dont want to start a new thread so will tag my question on here if i may. i have some 95mm2 cable left over, would it be worth me using this to connect my alternator to my battery bank?
  10. on a side note, look at this baby i have just had deliverd! sorry i can not do links ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290618751010?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 oh it seems i can do links
  11. yes i know what your saying about 330amp, the problem is i do have several more batteries in fact another 4, but they are all different amp hour cappacity, i.e 90, 100, and 120 amp, was thinking i would be better sticking to the 4 batteries with all the same amp hour ?
  12. dont yell at me but i had seen a cheap one at midland swidlers surface mount about a tenner!http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/Products/Electrical/IsolationSwitches/VS259.aspx
  13. Thank you for the reply, i have just noticed that my Sterling combi, 2500W requires a 300amp fuse! so am i right in thinking that the said 250amp batt iso will be ok ? sorry to be a pain
  14. Hi folks, i now it is probably a stupid question but i will ask any way. If my 24volt doemestic battery bank consists of 6 12volt 110 AMP hour batteries wired in series/parralel, will i be ok fitting a 250 amp isolator and does it have to be a 24 volt one or will a 12 volt one be ok ? Also while i think about it! what comes first the 300 amp fuse or the battery isolater ? thank you for your input
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