Gunna Do

I'm sure I saw something that said that building was a former lace mill but now converted to apartments. It certainly was a magnificent site. We also moored in about the same spot as you just south of Shipley lock. You must have flattened the grass or something! We had been told by 'the experts' that if we did the Erawash at all it would be a once only and never again experience. We are already making plans for a second visit so were we just lucky (weather aside) or has it dramatically improved?

Well we made it and thoroughly enjoyed it! As reported in some of the replies, some of the locks (especially the new gates) were hard work but generally they were OK. The bottom got a little too near the top on a couple of pounds north of Sandiacre for our 24" draft. Great welcome at Langley Mill and good company on the way back down. Many thanks to all who posted.

We also like Birstall but be aware that there are quite a few lumps of masonry at the northern end of the mooring. We use wheelbarrow wheels to keep us just far enough off the sides for a quiet night.

Anyone going up the Erewash on Good Friday? We've decided to give it a go, after all it is on our doorstep and needs to be explored. No we are not scared of going alone but health problems mean we may struggle. We've been told that the locks are badly maintained and hard work, in fact we've been told not to bother by some people! We're going anyway but some company would be nice.

I have to agree it sounds like the master switch. I had similar problems on another boat. Its easy to check, so long as you can get at the back of the switch - bridge the terminals with a jump lead. At least this will expose the offender or prove its innocence!

I have to confess I have been wondering about mine too. The tick over seems to be a bit high to my mind and I get quite a 'clonk' when engaging gear but no vibration probs. Perhaps this may have caused your wear as well? Also My prop may be a little over pitched so that to keep the speed down I am frequently engaging/disengaging drive. I am going to check the pitch next week when she is out for blacking. edited to add: A guy visiting our marina just changed his at 2000hrs!

I've been watching the Tv ad and wonder how my answers might be translated into cardboard buses and sport stadium kits?

We have a normal fixed boat hook about 8ft long. We have used it from time to time but it is by no means an essential. As another post has said they are useful for depth sounding although ours gets more use when the boat has drifted out in wide locks and we need to hook onto the ladder to pull back across. You could always wait until reaching the other side then a smart push would do the same! We had a metal fitting on our lumpy water boat hook that allowed you to neatly thread a mooring warp through a ring and retrieve it back to the boat in one easy operation. Never felt the need for this on the canals though. Do not however get tempted to buy a telescopic type. You hook onto something and watch them gradually extend and part company as you drift away. They never clamp up tight enough to use with anything other than a light cruiser and then of course you cannot undo them again!

I went the same upgrading route that you suggest after my original pump failed. No problems with breakers or wiring but had to upgrade the PRV on the calorifier as it was set too low for the new pump pressure.

Interesting theory. Seems to be a rather silly design fault to me as the same scenario could easily come about with an overtaking cruiser especially the large ones that tend to haunt the rivers and are always in a hurry! My boat doesn't have these probs thank goodness and when stern anchored (Yes, I have tried it out!), I have not noticed any appreciable dip. I suppose it would depend to some extent on how much scope you have out. A short scope would equal steep angle if, of course you could get the pick to actually dig in. My strategy is still for stern anchoring with the option of warping her around IF I felt at all threatened. After all once the boat has come to a stop, she will swing in her own length.

Going downstream, my anchor warp is secured to a bridle between the 2 mooring studs at the stern. The anchor chain is stowed in an ex military water jerry (real strong heavy gauge plastic!) inside the cabin door. The warp is good strong nylon to help absorb the snatch loads. You will remember from your 'Trent, lights, anchor' thread that I had run aground badly on the Trent and this was caused by the anchor being deployed up front after an engine failure. I have quite a lot of chain so the resultant swing had a enormous radius! Someone will of course come back and say "shorten the chain" but being a fellow lumpy water man you will know the results of that one!! Even the minimum of 30ft of chain plus a few feet of warp added to a 60ft boat needs a lot of swinging room. Hopefully you will never need to anchor in anger but You are quite right to consider the possibilities. In my view, ignoring the issue until it happens is just plain stupid.

I think that your idea about reversing your plan would be good if only that the tides give a better window going with the downstream and usually, the wind. I went to a lot of trouble fitting nav lights but as far as I was aware, nobody checked. The Nb that went with us didn't have any at all! Sissons charts are in my opinion a must but others have their own thoughts. Pilot books are designed to cover every aspect and generally frighten the life out of the reader so when some people actually get out there, they are gibbering wrecks! Providing that due notice is taken of the advice, once out there you will wonder what all the hype was about. I'm told that Trent Falls is no place for a Nb MOST of the time so I haven't tried it. Ritchlow do a good guide to the Trent and the Chesterfield, the former being useful for tidal planning although the Lockie's advice is the very best plan. Torksey is a nice sheltered stop and you don't have to lock in as there are pontoons outside. Pity to go straight past though. Dunham Bridge also provides a quiet night if you are so inclined. An anchor/chain/warp is a must but some people rely on a mobile phone for comms. Personally I prefer the VHF and so have a handheld that works fine for me. Last thought; I always clean my diesel filters before venturing out on the river for peace of mind.

You also need an all round white on a short mast in the forward part of the boat (steaming light) and if over 20m long, a second one mounted higher in the aft part!

I'm in general agreement with most of the above. I have sailed for most of the last 40 years and we never had to pass these inspections. I suppose that the 'powers that be think' that if I blow myself up, that's my problem and so long as it is well out to sea, not bothering anybody. The problem comes when they cram us into marinas. In some that I have visited or seen, you could walk from one bank to the other across the boats. In these instances it would seem sensible to check that at least once every 4 years, these are reasonable safe boats. The consequences of a major fire do not bear thinking about! There are a lot of folks out there who will perhaps misguidedly only do essential maintainance work when forced into it and it is probably these individuals who are responsible for the BSS in the first place. I agree that one could alter the boat the very next day and it would not then comply but be careful about bitching too much or the authorities might decide to force us through this nausea every year and make far more loot!

Also had engine failure on tidal trent so my ten penny worth is as follows: I managed to get in by the bank but ran badly aground on rocks, took another Nb and some two hours to get off so nipping in smartly to the bank would not be my first option! Travelling down the Trent this weekend at a ground speed of 12Kts, I would not have trusted a mud weight to arrest our 16tons. I use an anchor. In this case I had it ready at the stern, going the other way it would be, and was, up front.

The nav light problem can be solved with a set of battery lights available very cheaply and kept in a locker for the unlikely event. Not quite legal but to be fair I've yet to see a fully legal (with collision regs) set of lights on a Nb!

Yes we use one on a 1000watt jobby. Works fine and we don't run the engine. Have to agree about the hoses though and changed ours before fitting. We fill by bucket but empty through a skin fitting. On hearing the probs with the spin mounts we have been very careful to equalise the load and have had no problems.....so far! I think if the load gets far out of balance then the dryer can shake badly maybe causing the failure. Of course the thing should be stronger in the first place! .....and there's only two of us.

Take a look at this link, I find it pretty reliable: http://www.environment-agency.gov.uk/homeandleisure/floods/riverlevels/120752.aspx?stationId=2100

Hi Sean and welcome, Interesting article, hope you have a good helmet and suit of armour!

This one looks similar although there are others depending on size, wash loads etc: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XPB-68-Twin-Tub-Washing-Machine-Dryer-Free-P-P-/170601656242?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Kitchen_Washing_Machines_Dryers&hash=item27b8a6afb2#ht_1882wt_869

Not many twin tubs on the market now. Ours is full size (not the blue plastic caravan type) just like granny's but made of plastic so much lighter and not likely to rust away. Found new on Ebay and have been delighted with it. Spin dryer better than our automatic back at home. Our first choice would have been our new automatic washer/dryer from home but we were unable to get it into the boat through either the fr/back or side doors. Hence this choice! Also it runs easily from our 1000watt invertor so didn't need the b*****y expensive 3Kw sinewave jobby. We find one bucket hot and 2 buckets cold is enough for 3 washes depending on soiling and a couple of buckets cold for rinsing so not heavy on water use. Some people have had issues with springs breaking on the dryer side but we have had no trouble...yet! They are easy to change so I am not unduly worried. I think from memory Harris make them.

Getting clean wind on the inland system is a lottery. You pass one boat and his genny is spinning madly, a few boats away and there may be one not moving. Being a lumpy water sailor like you, I generally had a wind genny but since taking to the canals have found solar much more reliable. You will also have the problem of stowing a generator when moving. Yes, washing water goes straight out the skin fitting just like you're used to. We use a twin tub because it uses less power and water but you can't just switch it on and leave it. You pay your money and make a choice!

I actually found that it was the other way around. My Refleks was an absolute pain until I cleared it all. The engine (Beta 43 in my case) was OK although I did clean the primary before every trip for a few weeks. I did of course change the engine filter immediately I had the problem and then again a month later. So long as you have reasonably clear fuel coming in, the primary will take care of the small amount of crap left, assuming that you are not running the motor flat out!

Are you good navigators or should I warn the others here in Nottingham? Good luck.

I was on the link canal through Nottingham last year and following a very nice wide beam barge. This is a wide beam route so I was not anticipating problems however he met another one, the only time I have ever seen 2 on the same bit of water! They tried to pass but the canal was too shallow so one ended up reversing approx 1/2 mile to get to a wider bit so that the deed could be accomplished. The main purpose of this dribble is to point out that just because it says you can pass through a particular route, it doesn't necessarily mean that it is easy!