Bobbybass

To wear with my flat cap and red neckerchief....!

I use CIF spray bathroom cleaner for everything like that. I covered my expensive pure white baseball cap with black engine oil....and grimed it in with my fingers.....Its now totally clean and white again. I also used it on a white tuxedo I got from a charity shop...to take out old wine and marks from the sleave...great stuf... The spray....not the cream version..... I feel like an old duffer talking of home remedies..... How about Brasso...for polishing burn marks out of varnished tables.....! There I go again...... Good luck with the hat... Bob

We use Tesco 'value' paper... I think the secret is how well/fast it disolves...and we did disolve tests with a glass of watter and settled on Tescos. I imagine other value papers are probably made in the same place..... We had two blocks this year and they were both after using the special cleaning stuff (overnight) that came with the loo ! Seems to make it a bit sticky...but instead of panicing...I left it 10 minutes and it would then clear OK on its own. Bob

I recall what you mean about the old Lucas red type bottles...as they did make contact with the plates and seperators...not so good THe new yellow type do not make contact and I have now got it figured. ( no instructions !!!) It is 'stopped' as the nozzle surround doesn't go down the filler hole.. You push it down against a spring and the nozzle descends but stops short of the plate tops....about 18mm above in fact...the water is released...Once the level reaches the end of the nozzle the flow stops... I think it would be wise to use a wooden dipstick to work out if the level is correct...and maybe add a little bit of hose or remove a bit of the nozzle to get it correct...but once its set I find it brilliant...Mine level is OK judging by the advice others have given me here. My batteries are real pains to get to.....Its a torch and teeth inspection mirror on a stick...and to get to the start battery I have to remove the travel power control box...( at risk of it going across the battery terminals or damaging the fragile connectors ) ..I also nearly came a cropper starring down there in a confined space when it bubbled suddenly ! I would recommend the yellow bottle if you have these sort of problems because I was putting off checking...not a good thing. Thanks to everyone who gave me help. Bob

This is just my experience so don't criticise... I had a Myra and very good quality it was...but It took a lot of turns to get it on and was difficult to grip when 'soaped up' I changed it for one of the chrome bar type that has the on/off at one end and a thermostatic control at the other. I have been very pleased with this as the on/off only takes a turn and has a bump which makes it easy to grip. It has proved very reliable at coming on at the correct temperature after soaping. It has had a huge effect on our water consumption compared with the Myra... We have a water guage and used to need a fill every 4 days but now can go for over a week.. That's just my experience...may not suit everyone...but we're happy Bob

My wife wears one of those dog training collars. When I need her...I blip it and it gives her a shock.... Its good to stop her barking as well...

Hi...thanks for that...I'm feeling more assured.... So...if I understand this right....somewhere between top of plates and neck of filler is OK..? I thought it was more critical than that... I have no data sheet for batteries...as ....you don't often get that when you buy £50 batteries from chandlers... Thanks. Bob

Hi... I always thought that electrolyte level should be about a quarter inch above the seperators..? I just bought one of those yellow automatic top up bottles (with the modified extra washer) and used it on one cell and the level is now about 18mm (guess) ' Oh no...I've screwed my battery ..' I thought....but I've looked up levels on the net and several sites say it should be a half to three quarters of an inch... If thats the case then the yellow bottle has done its job. What level do others top them to ? Cheers. Bob

Hi.. I have 240w solar and that works fine as an extra source. I have a travepower and so I tried running the battery charger...that works very badly !! If I do this...my oil pressure guage shows low..my temperature guage shows high....my Sterling goes crazy.... the batteries take much longer to charge. The charger works fine on shore power. All a bit strange really...I think it is best to just have...patience. Bob

Right now I'm in the lock pound by the Admiral Nelson pub at Braunston..and I have a reasonable '3' signal... Bob

Hi.. Yes of course you're right. I just put these covers on when I'm in a 'suspect' area...or travelling under suspect bridges... I have heard that any kind of covering...glass or perspex gives a huge drop in output...but haven't tried it. Would be interested to know... Bob

Hi.. I have the large 120w panels held to the roof by bolts that I drilled/tapped into the boat. The cells come with an aluminium surround and I have drilled into this around the edge and fixed (self tappers) 'L' shaped aluminium that spaces with a 7mm gap from the top of the cell. This is about 20mm angle so it doesn't overshadow the cell.I then have three pieces of 6mm plywood wich I can slide in over the top of the cells and cover them. THe last piece of ply has a piece of the 'L' bolted to the edge and this overlaps the 'L' that I have bolted to the cells. I have drilled matching holes in these and can put a long padlock through so it can't be removed. When drilling into the edge of the cells...you have to be careful to clear the cell itself. If you are interested let me know and I may be able to get a pic. Bob

Hi... Shut down the computer.....start it up.....until its totally ready to go and all the usual software...ie virus scanners are running..goes quiet....but not internet. Press and hold ...all at the same time... ctrl ( bottom left) alt (just to the right of it) and delete (top right) This will bring up a new window that shows all programs running. Click onto the 'performance' tab...and it should show a fairly stable and low percentage (varies per computer) Make sure the graph is not hopping up and down around the 100% mark. If it is...and is consistentaly so...you may have malware running. If that's the case..I certainly wouldn't ever use the hard drive in another machine as it could carry virus to the new computer via systems control area on the disc and is impossible to remove. The only course is to burn your files ( not programs) onto CD/DVD and then transfer them via this way...but that is strictly data....as any executable program segments can carry malicious code... There are viruses like this that get into the control segment on the hard drive.....which tells the drive where the tracks etc are... Small though they are...they can fool the disc into cycling over and over and waste resources...It is sometimes possible to hear this happening..if you listen carefully and hear random clicks. The systems control area is not scanned by any virus scanners as its theoretically untouchable (ha ha..so they say)...and hence it will never show up. As I have said...its impossible to remove them and they will infect other drives... Hope this helps. Bob

Well....mine is just coming up to 13 years continuous use......mine years and previous owners. It just seems down to maintainance........and getting a grip on how it works. I also posted that it was pouring smoke...but had some helpful input from people. The smoke was from where the glowplug had quit and the exhaust was full of diesel. I was told...'just let it run...it will smoke and sound scarey...for ages...but let it run and burn off'. The also told me that it would smoke inside the compartment as the diesel soaks into the insulation..right on both counts. It seems to be OK now...and studying the diagrams ..I think if it finally needs a decoke it will just be a careful dismantle...and make sure you have the right gaskets and service parts first. My 'theory' on the Eber....only a theory...is that it is a great unit if you are willing to take spanner matters in hand and jump in. I think it may need a little more understanding (No..I'm not calling anyone dim...I mean...kindness/ TLC ) than some of the more modern units....and if you do that...it will reward with good service. I had no idea what it did or how it worked when I posted this here...(it ran fine for so long) but I got the manual on a disc...and thought about it...and figured it...and used the information kindly given by folk on here. In a short time I was improvising tools and discovering that you don't always need to buy exensive parts like meter pumps as they can be reset with a bit of ingenuity. (the little brass integral nut on top they say 'don't ever touch this ' !!) I was lucky my dad made me take up spanners and figure things...( we used to work on Jaguars....which needed a heap of special/expensive service tools that we made out of spoons...forks..and bits of old tin !!) I'm not afraid of the Eber.....but if you are less willing and want to spend more time boating than spannering...(good plan really) I think (only think )there are probably easier units on the market. Thanks again for all those that gave me info. Bob

Hi all.. Thank you for your help...I have it all running fine now... I decoked the gauze using a tea spoon that I bent the handle through nearly 180 degrees and filed semi-flat....and used it to carefully scrape and lift/extract the coke. I then tested the metering pump as per the book....made a dummy glow plug using a cabin bulb...measured the voltage at the control unit...and pumped the fuel into a plastic cup (bottom of a plastic coke bottle ) ...which I had previously weighed. I then put it on my kitchen scales (which has a M litre setting ) and found that it matched the Eberspacher chart exactly. New glow plug and it has now been running for some weeks. Thanks all for your help. Bob

I know what you mean.....but my copy made £1 in the Oxfam shop !!

I was always told (in the Plant industry) that you only needed to use the glowplugs if there is cold weather or some factor that may inhibit start up. My Beta 43 has just done 6200 hours and I have never used the glow plugs. It starts first turn. Someone has recently told me that it is not good for the engine to do that and the plugs should always be used. I can't see that I have any engine wear..it doesn't use a drop of oil between the 250 hour changes...but can I prolong it further if I use the plugs ? Cheers. bob

I had a Mira and recently it packed up. I replaced it with a Wickes 'chrome bar' shaped unit. I find this better than the Mira as it only takes a small twist to turn it on..has a nice bump on the controls which makes it easier when you have soapy hands.. and we save a lot of water...rather than the Mira which was a very large knob and took a lot of turning. THe Wickes unit was standard same size as the Mira and just fitted onto the same pipe ends. Cost was about £90 Bob Bob

I use Wickes's non-drip black gloss. You can get huge tins on 'special' offer and its as good as anything . I rub it down...red oxide prime...and hand brush it whenever it gets scraped (often ) and it always looks nice and fresh and shiney. Bob

After 13 years of continuous use, my Travelpower died last year. I took it ( alternator...black box) to : Cox Automotive Electrics, 10 Abeles Way, Holly Lane Industrial Estate, Atherstone, Warwickshire. CV9 2QZ tel : (01827) 712097 / 718484 I got the unit back...alternator rewound...repainted like new...new brush holder assembly...brushes etc..(looks brand new....not sure it isn't ) ..black box repaired....and a new 3 meter lead (they make to measure) of higher spec than the original....one year guarantee.....(do get the lead replaced as this is a trouble area on well used units) Total cost was £521 a big saving on a new one..... So far this year it has done me a round trip down to London...followed the THames etc..back to Rugby...about 370 miles....and has been faultless. The guy at Coxes....Ken....is a really nice guy...very knowledgable and helpful.... Hope this helps. Bob

Hi... I did have a problem like this when my engine start battery was on its way out. It 'dominated' the charging of the domestic batteries and my Sterling system showed no charging going on...or very low amps...even though they needed it. My main battery guage (simple round type) showed alternator output as only about 12.2v instead of the normal 13/14 that I am used to. Changing the troublesome battery sorted it out.

Further to my previous post about problem with the heater...I have now got t working OK....BUT... I bought a new glowplug from Tooleys at Banbury. It is made by...BERU ? It matched the old one exactly... My problem is that it allows tiny bubbles of fuel out od the top....and despite me getting it as tight as I dare..it still leaks... Can I use high temperature silicon gasket (RTV) to seal it ...will it withstand the temperature ?? Its only a tiny bubbly leak. I can't think why its doing this other than the built in sealing wasker at the top (which doesn't grip the shaft) is defective.

I have an Eberspacher D5W on my 12 year old boat. I bought the boat a year ago and the people lived aboard so I figure it had a fair bit of use. I have fired it up almost every day for the past 5 months as I heat the bathroom radiator and use it for the hot water so that I don't run the engine in the morning. A few days back it stopped. It would start to run but cut out after a period of a few seconds. I have the workshop manual, so I took out the glow plug and found it had a dirty stripe down one side running the full length ( I would guess the side that faces where the fuel comes in). It was also burnt out as in...melted...had a break in the coil (coresponding to the stripe) Studying the manual I made a reverse scraper (as suggested) and scraped coke from the inside of where the glow plug fits. I removed the fuel metering pump as it mentioned cleaning a filter, but couldn't see this filter and...although the Eberspacher manual is comprehensive about the main system...it doesn't show details of the pump. I refitted it and replaced the glow plug and fired it up. It made the usual noises and I could feel heat where the glow plug fits.....then..after about 30 seconds...blue smoke started to come from the exhaust. This built up into a huge cloud and the thing made a non-usual roaring noise. I have tried running it up several times in case it clears (sorry to the boat behind !!) but it doesn't. I'm not sure where to start with this..?..When I removed the pump I put pressure on the pipes and the whole body of the pump turned as if it is split in the middle. On another website there was a mention of carefully dismantling the pump and cleaning it. Does it come apart that easily.. or would this upset its 'settings'...as I say...the manual doesn't show an exploded view ? Could I have upset the pump when the body rotated ? I would guess the main unit hasn't been dismantled/decoked for years if ever... Dismantling/decoking would be within my skills....but are the gaskets easy to obtain ? On another website some said they...'made up new gaskets'....what would I make them from to be heat proof ? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks. Bob

You don't think its naf...? It was about £39 and is keyring sized. Bob