PaulJ

Hi, Cant be of any help here Im afraid but would very much appreciate any links/info/photos you may have come across on Parbold, which is 3 years younger than Ambush.I rescued it about 15-20 years ago and after a short article in Waterways World was last seen on a lowloader heading to Uxbridge. Ta and good luck with your search as I have come across very little material.

If you are bringing it round this way sometime soon,I dont think you will really have to worry about how long you stay as I doubt you will see many boats out somehow. If you are on your boat most of the time I cant see much of a problem,if you dont mind hopping about a bit. If not as said few posts up, Jones is a nice marina to stay.

Thanks Alan, you've put my mind at rest.Just wanted to make sure I was not reading the rules wrong to save myself a horrible job RCD doesnt like bottom feeds as I had to argue the toss when I fitted a gravity fed diesel boiler which was bottom fed from the diesel tank a few years ago in a new boat. Inspector said I should have had a top feed and fit a fuel pump which I figured was a lot dafter than having a bottom feed. In reality it doesnt really make any difference anyhow as earlier this year I replaced a corroded fuel line on a boat which had emptied the contents of the diesel tank into the bilges. That was fed from the top of tank. And ta to the other replies which appeared before I managed to type this

Recently went to a boat with similar running problems. Would rev perfectly out of gear but soon as I knocked it into gear it wouldnt rev past tickover. Was a Saab 10hp in a Springer so it really needed them revs. After much head scratching and trying things turned out to be a blocked return fuel line. Was totally blocked because a previous owner had fitted a tap to it (?!) and the new owner had managed to turn it off. Bit of a long shot I know but...

Anyone here got an older nb that has both an engine fed from the bottom of the diesel tank and a BSC? This one has a BMC so is not therefore gravity fed. Asking because I thought all tanks were meant to have their take offs from top of tank. Read through the BSC and it appears to be legit on a 30 year oldish boat so assume I have got this confused with requirements for petrol tanks as I seem to remember a glut of (petrol,grp)cruisers having to have their beer barrel shaped tanks adapted many years ago.

The peace, quiet and view

Just done mine a few weeks ago. Used some Intertuf to black it (3 coats).Left it to cure for a couple of weeks before using it again though. I got no taint to the water at all so never bothered to flush it as was planning to. Had some horrible condensation problems whilst inside the tank painting it though-solved that by sticking my leaf blower in the hatch. Also very handy as an extractor when in there de rusting too...

Should not have an elbow fitted- thats what pipe benders are for. Less joints-less chance of leaks. But its BSS -so whereas any of the examiners I have used would fail it (along with running the pipe without conduit through a cupboard containing electrics) your examiner may not together with the examiners I would never use.

I love any woodentop-but thats cos thats how I make my living! If the owner is confident about the condition of it ask him/her if minds you poking it with a small screwdriver. Look carefully around the windows , where it sits on the decks and any other joints or apertures. Good luck!!!

Can you remember how much you originally took out to start with ?

Will be like a Formula 1 narrowboat LOL

Why not just solder it to the outside of a blown fuse, of better still just wrap a load of tin foil around it. These are much better bodges. Biggles TIN FOIL ?! Use a cutoff 6mm bolt instead. Lol

Long time since Ive used it mind but 3M used to do a narrow plasticy type of masking tape.Think it was about 8mm wide so used this for the edges and a normal tape to cover a bit more on the unpainted side. It was a bit dear but you could do really tight curves with it and the paint never crept under it either Have a look here- sorry you,ll have to cut & paste this-me link didnt work :-D http://www.paints4u.com/productsbyCat.aspx...;Subselection=2 I take it back-me link has worked :-D

Id stick with the angle grinder and a box of fibre discs-belts dont last very long on metal.

Would have thought a (modernish) 15hp 4 stroke would do you nicely

Sorry for delay on reply on this- Battens fix to the side of the steelwork.Cant afford to lose any headroom... Have found some self adhesive foam underlay (for laminate flooring)in Do it All-comes in a 10m x 1m roll for £45. Would be a bit quicker, easier and cheaper than having to stick double sided tape and then radiator foil on

Are string vests fire retardent though or do you treat yours? :-D Fix all the linings to the battens using either a nail gun or screws (depending how they fit,where it is and what is going to hang off them) and some sort of silicon adhesive ie sikaflex,ceresit etc

Yep-Just what I'd planned to use on the hull below the decks. But meant, for instance,what to use to cover the angle strengtheners on the hull that the slab is sitting between? And thanks for that ChrisPy-someone had too...:-D

Hello all, Any one got any suggestions for insulating all the angle/ box section that is bare between insulation slabs? Best Ive come up with so far is some 3mm thick foil backed polystyrene type stuff (it is radiator heat reflector but not the bubblewrap one) cut to size,double sided taped onto the bare steel and then the lot taped over onto the slab. It does work well, is reasonably cheap but takes ages to do. And please dont all shout SPRAY FOAM because- (a)its not mine to spray foam (b)and Im still involved with a boat that was sprayfoamed and that has more bare bits showing than a .......all analagies welcome here

Well Im envious-you just dont realise how much time Ive wasted buggaring about trying to get that 10 second pump free water LOL

Ive used a Honeywell Pipe Thermostat several times now to control the pump -theyre cheap,last forever and easily sourced-fit it fairly close to the back boiler and set it to about 35C.

Nice to see someone making panels,or come to that,anything, at a realistic price that dont look like they cost about £5 to make or am I just being fussy?

I just fitted a brand new Barrus engine-does exactly the same on a very cold day. Took it to be a cold start, warm up sort of thing as it holds (very steady)higher revs for a short while and then settles down to a (very steady) normal tickover-same as an auto choke on a car. I was very impressed with the engine that it did do it.

Some Nice panels, I havent come across MSC before. My googling must be rubbish:-D -thanks peops