truckcab79

Could be that they’re rubbish quality. The only settings on them are the colour coded jaws to show you which ones to use for each colour of crimp. It’s also possible to put the crimp in the wrong way round. It won’t grip properly if you don’t. Other than that ti you just ratchet them fully until they release themselves.

I would have thought just order from 12v planet or vehicle wiring products. They’ll still be buying out of China but they’ll be more picky about the quality of what they’re offering. I’ve had plenty of good stuff off Amazon / eBay etc including direct from sellers in China but you do take a risk in doing so. Especially if the sellers ‘other items’ are not electrical related.

You’ll have to. Not been available for a while. 😂

Incidentally white spirit will happily clean off any remnants of the tape version of butyl also. 👍. Shame DumDum isn’t around any more but asbestos based so long gone. I’ve picked that out of landrovers after 40 years plus and if you so chose you could still roll it up and use it again.

Yep. All going to do much the same thing. Tape still squished out a bit and you just score it and pick it off in one piece. Or use the offcuts rolled into a ball to dab at it and pull it off. whatever you use warm it up first. Easier to work with.

Give it a try. Nothing to lose but for a decent job the suggestions posted earlier to Google watch glass and dimension. £5-10 or the rest of your life polishing out crazing that typically goes all the way though, with something designed to clean your teeth.

Just refitted my first two restored ones. Used butyl tape 2mm thick. Worked perfectly. Tape the boat not the window and poke the holes through as it’s much easier to line up as you push the window in if you can see them. Need to be pretty bang on first time as there’s not much scope for adjustment once it touches. If I wanted to put them in and could guarantee they were never coming out then I’d sikaflex them. On mine the apertures are just flame cut so it’s not exactly an even fit so on the inside I then used a non-setting mastic on any gaps just for good measure (empty shell so I’ve got complete access).

Some pics would be useful but the typical crazing described on old plastic can’t be polished out. That aside they’re available new for almost less money than toothpaste. I love to restore stuff but sometimes it’s just not worth it.

Probably cost more than new glass and sounds more like old crazed plastic than the sort of hazing that can be polished.

Nah. I’ve blocked the three most objectionable / boring now and the forum has improved already. 😂

Spot on. 👍 Add the diameter and it’ll narrow it down nicely for you and the added bonus that it’ll be glass not plastic. EBay. Amazon. All the usual suspects. Cheap as chips too. Alternatively buy a cheap old knackered gauge and take the glass out. Hardly worth the effort though.

Thankfully I don’t need your approval but thanks for getting that off your chest. If you’ve got the time to waste then look back and you’ll see that I actually moan about the lack of informed comment as opposed to opinion, and the side-tracking of decent, useful threads with info that is of no use to anyone. You’re welcome to ignore my posts. It’s not difficult.

👍 Probably where they’re getting their info from and then coming on here to regurgitate it as time-served knowledge. 😂 Jokes aside I’m not sure why anybody with a genuine interest in the hobby wouldn’t be to be honest. It’s just a bigger gene pool. Makes sense to get a wide spectrum of opinions instead of 3 people insisting their way is right and the only way it should be done. It’s hardly broad research any other way. I’ll happily take info from all over the place.

Makes sense. It doesn’t like water under it. Took ages for our sleeper build to clear. Wasn’t convinced it ever would to be honest.

Interested to know how the Osmo failed. We design and build custom pergolas and where we use a finish at all it tends to be a water based stain and then Osmo 420 plus. Never had an issue. One occasion we put it on what we knew was too wet timber (a sleeper bench) and it went all milky but still dried fine eventually. It’s generally pretty bulletproof stuff. Bang on about the sikkens cetol. Used that a few times on gates where we want to stain and protect in one. Lovely to apply and lasts really well.

Tru oil is great stuff and for anyone else reading this an alternative would be Osmo 420 plus. UV protection as well as all the usual good Osmo stuff. Not cheap but for a tiller handle you’d get away with a couple of sample sizes. If using Danish oil just be aware that you can’t slap it on and remove the excess much later. Too thick and it’ll dry like a horrible thick sticky varnish. I’ve done a few gun stocks over the years and learnt the hard way on my first one.

Only from this thread. Panic not. I’m still here. 👍

Not wishing to continue it so my last post on this but the point is the build thread was stuffed some time ago by the posts I highlighted and more importantly the owner of the build thread has understandably said he has given up on it. Perhaps the mods could delete everything after his last build related post in the hope he may continue it. That would be the only sensible approach in my mind.

Mr Muscle spray on oven cleaner works wonders albeit at a price. Best easily available commercial degreaser I’ve found is actually one of the cheapest. The No Nonsense possibly rebranded as Fortress at Screwfix. Cheap enough to use neat with a stiff brush. Get their set of three sash brushes while you’re there. I use it on driveways prior to pressure washing and it’s not failed me yet. Great stuff.

Eventually.

Have had a rebuilt V8 in the workshop waiting to be fitted for at least 5 years now. I better get a move on. 😂

Well…..this thread was a decent build thread until the usual suspects started a bore-off. That’s kind of my point. Obviously lost on you. 🙄 And hence why I moved mine to Insta. Try and keep up. 😂

You are very welcome to your own opinions and I respect them completely. However those individuals are not respected or valued by me. I find their input to be more about trying to prove their ‘knowledge’ largely to each other rather than be of any genuine help to anyone else on here. If I set out to ruin every thread on here I’d struggle to do a better job than them. My posts are not meant to intimidate anyone nor do I care whether anyone else shares my views, though the ‘likes’ that previous posts garner would suggest that I’m not alone in being bored of these two. I am also a big boy and do not choose to sit and read their never-ending garbage unremarked just because people are too worried about upsetting what I was once told are ‘forum elders’. 😂

So block me. It’s very easy. Though I’d genuinely love to know what you like about a forum that’s largely two old blokes arguing about the RCD 🤔 👍 Thank you. I have. But on Instagram. Follow the link in my build thread 👍. There wasn’t much point carrying on here as it was clear that there isn’t much in the way of practical knowledge or experience to assist me or swap ideas with. Hence my frustration when the handful of builds that there are get scuppered by those who are happy to run down others but have no hands-on skills of their own. Happy to talk the talk as they say.

Merely a suggestion. However they like me can do whatever they want and of course they will ignore it and carry on posting but now I don’t have to see it. Everyone’s a winner ……except maybe the forum, anyone who wants to see a build thread without it being ruined by pedants or anyone wanting information from anyone with any actual practical and up to date experience. 👍 And with respect I’d be wary about ‘learning’ anything from the person on the forum who posts the most often. Their own self-importance generally gets in the way of their ability to learn anything themselves. Posting more than anyone else isn’t knowledge.