leolady too

I fitted a 130W panel. The box under the panel contained the blocking diode so that was taken care of. I ran the flex from the panel inside and connected to the regulator (a HSRi). The connections were labelled for wind and solar (it's a combined regulator). The instructions said that the regulator should be connected to the batteries by not more than 1.5M of 4.0 sq mm cable. I stuck to that although I expect you could extend the length by using thicker cable. I got the cable from www.vehicleproducts.co.uk. The optimum connection arrangements for batteries have been done to death so have a look in the forums. However, as I'm using the panel for continuous topping up while I'm away from the boat, and its free, I'm not that bothered. It works superbly by the way. I couldn't be more pleased.

We have a Beta BD3 Tug. It is in an engine room, forward of a boatmans cabin on a Trad stern. The engine room was added to show off the engine by a previous owner. There are doors either side which allow lots of admiring remarks from people at locks etc. It has lots of brass and copper which I polish and it looks good. It seems (famous last words) to be reliable and is easy to maintain. It seems to have plenty of power (she's 62 ft) although I believe that has to do with gearboxes and props's and other complicated technical things. Everyone who comments says nice things and that does, I have to admit, puff one's feathers up a bit. No one has been rude enough to comment that it's a fake although I know it is really. After all, it is a tractor engine at heart and the exploded parts diagram even says "John Deere" at the top. It isn't really slow revving (compared to a real vintage engine). I am not a lover of vintage engines particularly and if I had a choice I'd have an invisible totally silent engine but my crticisms of what we have are:- It is very noisy. Much more so that a proper vintage engine. You cannot hear anything much at the tiller other than the engine and that includes those on the bank, or passing boats or even someone at the bottom of the steps in the boatman's cabin. Basically, it sounds like a bus and after a day's cruising, that's not too great. The rest of the boat is also affected by the noise but also by vibration because the engine is mounted straight on to steel bearers. The exhaust comes out of the roof and I end up breathing it some of the time, depending on the wind direction. I'd have either a proper vintage with a quiter real sound which doesn't deafen you (and get a long exhaust chimney), or go for a quite silenced modern engine. For every opinion there is someone with the opposite view.

I wonder if ordinary plasterboard would be adequate. When we had the firebrigade at the office they wanted the ceilings lined with plasterboard so it was two boards thick. That seems to give 1 hour fire resistance. You can certainly tile over plasterboard and its fairly cheap and easy to cut.

The question of noise level can depend on the use you have in mind. If its to run a charger or computer, the generator noise is important. I use mine to run power tools. Invariably the angle grinder or sander is louder that the generator, and I try to run it only while actually using the tools.

Phil, Masons no longer produce their E500 synthetic undercoat and the primers are designed to go directly under the P type topcoat. This is straight from the email of the famous Henk at Akzo Nobel. I expect they know what they are doing but it seems a bit odd to me, as an ignorant amateur. Could I get you to bend your very honourable rule and comment (in general terms, not specifically referring to Masons) about the wisdom of omitting the undercoat stage.

I replaced ours because the split ring was one of those "advisory" notices from the BSS. It isn't a difficult job except that I had to replace the flue too. The old one was a cast iron down pipe and the only way to get it out was to break it. The roof plate join was leaking anyway so a good overhaul of the whole thing was overdue.

Masons is primarily a car paint. Try any car paint supplier. I expect that any such supplier will be able to identify the paint and mix it.

Does anyone have thoughts on the need for or benefit of undercoat. Is Mason's advice to put top coat straight over primer thought sound?

I'm surprised there was a suggestion that P Type should be sprayed to get the correct film thickness. The data sheets say "P Type 1K Topcoat is a single component brushing topcoat" and under "Application Process" it says "By brush appy 1 coat" which is pretty clear to me. I have to say that when I emailed for advice, stating I was an amateur NB painter, I got a rapid and very helpful reply. Of course, writing for help when there is a problem, particularly if the problem is with the product, is different. It is also a chance for the company to demonstrate that it really is interested (or in your case isn't) in its customers and reputation. BTW just for completeness, the data sheet says Rapid Excel primer comes in buff, off white, light grey and dark grey. I'ff not sure what colour buff is or what it would go under and off white and various shades of grey don't get you much further than black and white and mixtures thereof but I thought I'd mention it. Finally, now they don't do E500 synthetic undercoat, which was also designed to be brushed, they sell only primers designed for spraying. Perhaps P Type will be the next to go and they will concerntrate on spray coatings only. Perhaps they would let us all know so we could begin moving to another brand if that is their intention.

Thanks for that. I've had a look at the data on the Masons site. It seems the main solvent in both rapid excel primer and P Type top coat is naphtha with some xylene so I think they are probably mixable but probably not compatible with anything white spirit based. The thinner/cleaner is 50-75% naphtha, 10-25% xylene. I wonder why they've stopped making undercoat. I suppose they must know what they are doing and have a good rreason.

Have a look here re high build primer in black. http://www.masonct.co.uk/mason/uk/news/pre...lease040527.htm and here for distributors http://www.masonct.co.uk/mason/uk/distributor/ I know Total Concept in Chichester have E500 undercoat but not the colours. I've been dealing with Darren there who is very helpful you could call him. I could store it for you till you can collect if delivery is too expensive or imopssible.

I am told (by the company) that masons E500 synthetic undercoat is no longer available although some stockists still have some. The data sheets say P Type can go straight over primer (rapid excel is recommended). How do people feel about a system of say two coats of primer and two of top coat with no undercoat? Does the undercoat have much to do with protecting the steel or is it mainly about colour and obliteration of what's underneath? Is there that much difference between undercoat and primer in these circumstances? Does anyone know if red oxide is OK under Masons primer and P Type? Finally, does anyone know if one can mix 20-25% P Type with rapid excel primer (to ease a colour change/match) the way one can mix E500 synthetic undercoat and P Type topcoat? Why is all this so complicated compared with Dulux matt on the walls at home?

I use a fishing umbrella which has an extenting spike. Its designed to stick into the ground. The spike goes into a piece of copper tube attached to the woodwork just inside the rear doors. The copper tube is attached with a couple of clips designed for that size of tube (22mm) available from screwfix, B&Q etc etc

I have to replace the flue on our stove having broken the old one getting it out to reseal the roof plate. The old flue seems to be cast iron and 4 inches with a 5 inch (both outside diameter) spigot on the end that sits on top of the stove. My research on the internet always ends up with domestic instalations and 125 and 150 mm pipe. Does anyone know where the 4/5 inch pipe can be bought. It looks much like the old cast iron soil pipe you see on the outside walls of houses (now superceded by the grey plastic pipe) can it be that?