springy

Yes, but your hot water at the tap will get cold ! springy edited to add - it partly depends on which coil you use for heat input and which you use to feed the radiator.

I think you need to arrange the L port such that one side is fed from the Calorifier, the other is fed from the tankless heater, and the outlet goes to the hot taps. springy

No good if the incoming water is hot enough such that the "tankless heater" is able to boil it ! I've not seen any with any sort of thermostatic control on the outlet, usually just a two or three position heat setting and a flow control valve allowing hotter or cooler water. AFAIK the fitting instructions for most of this type of heater require that it is fed from a "cold" supply, and BSS would surely expect them to be installed in accordance with the manufacturers instructions (even if there is some leeway on flue length). springy

IMO it MAY be fixable - a few years back I had a similar occurrence with my Paloma - I was able to remove the heat exchanger (without disturbing the gas side) solder the split pipe and replace it, and it has been fine since (though I'm more cautious about draining down at the first hint of cold weather). Unless it has multiple splits or the splits are within the centre of the matrix then I think you should be able to repair it/ find someone capable of repairing it. Failing that I would check with Morco re price/availability of a replacement heat exchanger, morco d61b page, rather than replacing the whole unit. As you dont liveaboard, AIUI, the regulations require a new paloma or equivalent to be fitted by a "Competant Person", if you search the site you will find much debate as to the actual meaning and consequences of this. Repairing your existing unit or replacing damaged parts with new does mean that as far as your BSS is concerned the appliance has not changed. Though it still requires someone with at least some plumbing/mechanical competance to do the job. springy edited to say beaten to it by alans speedy typing

Yes it is the same elum - closer inspection shows that what I took as the lines of the edges of the planks in the blade are actually lines of weld! springy

Don't recall any name being mentioned, but I will see if anyone else in the basin remembers. springy

I'll have a proper look at the elum tomorrow, I agree about looking better without the conversion. springy

It is Meteor, having had the conversion removed during a recent sojurn on the bank, you may remember the thread on her "disappearance", meteor thread, I met the new owner when she was being craned in and IIRC he intended to pair her with his motor and use her for carrying, though unfortunately I can't remember any more details. springy edited to add that I think she must have had a new elum

One other thing - a paloma (or equivalent) must be fed from the cold supply i.e. you can not arrange it to "top up" the temperature of water already heated by some other system - the usual trick is to have a change over valve (L-port) between the paloma, calorifier and the hot taps. You can just use two valves and remember to turn one off before turning the other on (I once saw two Hep2o valves with a short piece of rubber hose joining the two valve knobs so the as you turned one off you also turned the other on). springy

"eats drive belts" - chews them up ? - check pulley alignment, check pulley rims for damage or sharp edges. By fully adjusted I presume you mean at the end of the adjustment slot and requiring more ? Is it a standard alternator or an uprated one. Is the belt tension being set correctly - it should be just tight enough not to slip (otherwise you are likely to chew out either water pump or alternator bearings) - normally judged by how far you can deflect the belt from its resting line on its longest run - usually 10-15mm though now most manufacturers suggest that you should use a tension guage & then check if you can turn the alternator pulley by hand without turning the crankshaft - if you can the belt needs to be a bit tighter. springy

Found this for someone keen with a soldering iron - an optical sensor to run a standard tacho on a diesel engine - designed for a VW but could probably be adapted for pretty much anything with suitable modifications DIY diesel tacho springy

It has a sensor which is mounted on one of the injector pipes - presumably doesnt matter which one, as long as you can get at them (some listers would be difficult). springy

As separate items Hour meter is dead simple - just connect to ignition switch such that when ignition is on - counter runs. A bit crude but effective. Rev counter is a bit trickier as it requires a connection to the alternator - and not all alternators have the appropriate terminal - IIRC it is a direct connection to ONE of the field windings (if I'm wrong on this someone will be along in a mo to correct it) - this allows the tacho to measure the rpm of the alternator - you then have to calibrate the unit to allow for the ratio between the engine rpm and the alternator rpm. If you get a combined unit then you may have a choice of "engine hours" - either hours running regardless of speed - as per the separate hour meter, or hours at (say) 2000 rpm - this may give a more accurate indication of the work done by the engine, but I'm not really convinced of the value of the difference. springy

Hmm, having a separate button which you press & hold until the engine stops suggests that it works in the opposite way - ie energising the stop solenoid actually operates the stop control on the pump. Which means that its not just an electrically reluctant solenoid although it could just be "stcking". springy

I'm just wondering if it is something to do with the stop solenoid - not familiar with Isuzu particularly but usual operation is that switching ignition on energises solenoid & therefore allows engine to run, turning ignition off releases solenoid thus stopping engine. If your solenoid is a "bit reluctant" then this could possibly explain the behaviour - particularly as you suggest that the initial long cranking period doesn't produce much smoke. Try switching the ignition on and off a few times before cranking - it might work (even if only to confirm the fault). springy

There are two hand levers on quadrants - the lower one operates the air flap in the transfer port - used to reduce the charge of air into the cylinder - this helps to keep the engine hot enough when running light or just on tickover for long periods. The upper one (which I think you are refering to) seems to be variously known as the pump rack or bracket rack. I have A Bolinders Manual which refers to it as the "No Miss Handle" - it adjusts the Pump Stroke and hence the amount of fuel fed into the engine on each firing stroke, - this is not adjustable (usually) from the steering position & generally, as I understand it, it is usually set 5 - 8 notches down & left there. It is of more use on seagoing vessels as you can "fine tune" the running of the engine so that it hits every beat and so runs smoother & on the least amount of fuel - useful if you are going to be on "full chat" for several hours. The engine speed is set using the circular brass control with a handle, which is on top of the pump assembly - this increases the pressure on the hit & miss governor spring & hence forces the pumps to strike more often. All the above are standard on all bolinders except the Pup (9HP) and smaller (I think) which do not have the air flap in the transfer port. springy

I'd be interested too - I've just been looking at some pages in one of the manuals (downloaded from internal fire) and it seems that the twins had "coordinated fuel pumps" a mechanism which ensured that each pump operated the same number of times - if the front cylinder pump was a "miss" then the rear cylinder pump would also be a "miss", and that if the front cylinder pump was a "hit" then the next firing stroke would be the rear cylinder (though not necessarily the next stroke). These engines had a separate "Back Pump" (or at least some of them did - it's not that clear). The photos in the manual however seem to show a standard setup with back pump, table and pecker as per the singles ? springy

Bolinders were sold as a "Crude Oil Engine" and certainly the larger seagoing engines would have had "Fuel Preheating" coils in the exhaust allowing them to run on "Heavy Fuel Oil" - often known as Bunker Fuel - much longer chain fractions of crude oil and much thicker than Diesel. AFAIK on the canals they were always run on "Gas Oil" (Diesel) which is usually just refered to as Oil. Lubrication for engine is "Green Oil". They probably would run on creosote and old engine oil but I'd be very wary particularly of the effect on the injector pumps, but also on the spindle (adjustable injector). springy

I'm pretty convinced that there is no pump based reversing:- There is no lever to control the friction wedges, There is no push rod from where the friction wedges would be to the table attachment "bell crank", There is no "pecker" on the "back pump" end of the injector bell crank (at least on the outer pump anyway). Although all the components that are there look to be standard i.e. as if it did have pump reversing. It is difficult to tell but I dont think there is a "Table" for the back pump or even a "Back Pump" itself - the pump main body casting is looks standard but probably just has a bung in the threaded hole where the "back pump" body and plunger would be. Don't think the photo was at BCLM - can't think of any buildings of that type close to the water. Not convinced by Dereck's comment about Bolinder Steerers slopping their beer - it's just your legs that bounce - even standing on the counter on tickover you can still drink your tea. Problems with spilling beer can only be down to faulty glasses. springy

Airlocks at a guess. When you say "water pump is constantly trying to pump" I presume you mean the domestic supply (cold water) pump rather than the central heating circulation pump. Assuming you dont have any leaks it will take much longer to reach cut out pressure if there are any air pockets in the system or calorifier. Assuming Squirrel/radiator system has a header tank with an arrangement to refill from domestic supply - need to bleed air from all the radiators. Which corner of the radiator(s) is getting warm ? springy

I fitted one - to reduce the possibility of scalding - but I think I found another benefit, instead of half filling the washing up bowl with v. hot water & then adding lots of cold to get it to a point where I could actually put my hands in it to do the washing up, I now use less of my stored hot water and less water in total as I end up with the bowl only half full - just enough to do the washing up! springy