Triss48

Thanks for this. As I use a MacBook I will have to check that I can use a USB socket for the connection rather than the wireless receiver.

It has always bugged me when in a city that I can't make use of hotspots such as the Cloud or BTOpenzone largely I guess because I can't get a strong enough signal inside the boat. Anybody with experience of booster systems using an external aerial and an internal box to transmit inside the boat?

I had a visit on Friday when moored at Lady Capels. Twenty something blond, head through the door - "just wanted to see what it was like. Often thought of living on a boat". Many responses came to mind, but she had her fella with her, and he was BIG.

Nightmare coming back from the pub, not being all that sure where the front door was!

That would do it, Gets round the pressure issue, but would need a extra pump to circulate the water in the CH circuit. Thanks for the info. Works in the heat exchanger solution.

My boat is powered by an Isuzu with two cooling circuits. One to a calorifier for hot water and the other to a swim tank. I have a Webasto running three radiators and a calorifier. The heating system is not pressurised. I need information/advice/experiences of making use of hot water from the engine to heat the radiators so making use of hot water created during cruising or battery charging rather than have it go to waste. My idea is to use two way valves on the radiator feed and return installed before the Webasto/header tank. Hot water to the rads would come from either the Webasto or the engine and be returned to either the header tank or the swim tank. There would need to be a bypass to allow normal operation probably with a cut off. The radiator circuit is in 22mm copper with 15mm radiator connections so pressure will not be a problem, but what about the load on the engine cooling pump when it has to drive the water 30m. The hot water from the calorifier is nearly hot enough to make a cup of tea after about an hours running.

I fitted double glazed units throughout. Wouldn't be without it. Warmer, quieter and condensation on the frames only on the coldest mornings. Even then, only wipe the bottom nearest the wood, as the rest dries before it travesl far enoiugh to do any harm. Decided on a version that has the whole of the central section lifitng out - great for cleaning, escape and selling icecream to passers by in the summer!

Having fought for the best a part of 4 years to achieve reliable heating first with an Eberspacher and then a Webasto I have now reached nirvana and am warm! The final answer lay with the fuel supply. Webastos are very sensitive to how the fuel is delivered from the tank, the quality is not usually a problem. The pipe run has to match specification on size and distance. The easy way to check is to disconnect the fuel line from the heater and then start up the unit. It will stop after it has failed to fire. Put a jam car to collect the fuel. If you get a good squirt of fuel with each click of the pump then the supply is OK. If not go through the process a few times to see if it improves - there may be air in the line. If no improvement then there is a problem. Possibilities are a knackered pump - genuine Webasto pumps are not cheap or they lie with the pipework. Do you have a fileter between the tank and the pump? This causes problems as the fule line is rather tahn the 3mm the Webasto recommend suddenly increased to a few centimetres for the filter bowl. It is just too much for the pump to cope with. Incidentally, I got a telling off from the dealer for taking mine part, it was only with much difficulty that I got any warranty work done. Good luck

Is it a Shoreline? If so the nice people at Shoreline will send you a self fit bit of kit that renders the fridge less sensitive. I had the smae probelm and that fixed it.

If yours 12v is a Shoreline, then they will supply a self fit gismo to reduce sensitivity to low voltage. Reduces the no-no level to 9v ore thereabouts.

They are admittedly significantly more expensive than a basic steel one, and also have the disadvantage that a Sea Searcher will not pull them out if you are a bit of a silly Billy. Put 2 or 3 non stainless jubilee clips round the handle near the socket end. Gives just enough attraction for a rescue.

I tried this arrangement on my boat, but no luck. Any secrets to making it work?

I tried to run my TV this way cuttin out the 240/12V transformer supply. There was just too much fluctuation in the supply as the fridge or the ebersacher cut in to give stable picture.

All washed, now how about drying? I have a dehumidifier form B&Q draws under three amps at 12V. Hang towels up in the saloon, and they are dry overnight, with the residual heat and the moisture being taken out. Helps with condensation too. Triss