Fuel__2001

I've got a new horizontal calorifier which now sits on the swim with the coil connections above the engine, the boiler connections are not an issue but wondering about the engine connections to the 2nd coil and whether to fit a header tank or not; room to fit a header isn't an issue So, the engine is an Isuzu 55 - i cant find this manual online. I've found the canaline manual which im guessing would be a close match to my engine, it talks about the calorifier position (P29) 300/450mm above the engine and no more than 3m of pipe work. This would mean no header tank, save some money and work - just leaves me with the question of, would this approach work and what to do about bleeding air from the system? the C-Warm pdf (p7) talks about having a header tank above the calorifier coils as the engine is below the coil - this would involve some work and money. So, what do you think is the best approach? header or not? Thanks

Theres me, thee and 2 children, still onboard a 57'x10' - 12 years later with the eldest child whose 11 and youngest whose 2 - its all they have ever known and now share a room. things to consider - We used a multifuel stove for years as a primary source of heating, but the mess of coal and wood and moving to Scotland put pay to that, pressing a button is a far easier option and means i get to play with the kids rather than chopping wood/lugging coal. So, Hot water/Heating; does your system have the ability to provide a plentiful supply on demand; after years of managing with a 60 litre,calorifier with immersion, multifuel stove, eberspacher (which stopped working after 3 years) it was tough; when the youngest was born we changed the heating/hot water system and now have a Harworth PJ Diesel Boiler with a 100L calorifier, this means everyone can have a shower whenever they want and the smallest child can have a bath, all while the boat is being heated in the mornings and the washing up is being done - all at the same time, this is nothing short of a miracle and amazes me everytime i press the button to start the heating. The eldest spent 20 minutes in the shower the other day, the only limiting factor is the size of the water tank. Washer dryer - with that many people onboard doing laundry is a task and being able to dry it in the winter is key Due to the above the 500 litre water tank now gets filled a couple of times a week Cooking - domestic gas oven and gas hob - if the electric in the marina goes down we can still cook Storage (inc Fridge and Freezer) - being able to store food for a family of 4 and all the crockery/pots/pans etc and inviting guests, childrens friends. Table - having a table to eat meals at rather than off laps to teach some important social skills With small ones just learning to walk, making sure you can lock both ends of the boat Toilet - we have a pumpout rather than a camping thetford Due to the schooling regime we don't CC Electrics - we have 2x240v rings as we are quite a power hungry family and like our comforts Thats for starters - after years of making do, roughing it, getting by and working out what we need, we finally have it sussed and ot only took 10 years and 2 refits!

The lock keepers up here all do things slightly different, Scottish Canals are a law unto themselves - on the Muirtown Flight and at Dochgarrach you can use your engines but depends upon the staff. They certainly wouldn't be asking the commercial craft to turn their engines off - http://lordoftheglens.co.uk/ page 6 will explain it though - https://www.scottishcanals.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/caledonian-skippers-guide-rev.pdf

http://www.boattransporter.co.uk/ A family firm, I used them from the Southeast to Scotland, not a hitch despite closing some of the main trunk roads on the way up; had to do this journey over 2 days. They have been in the game donkeys and were cheapest by far.

I used skamotec 225 which comes in 25mm thickness and you can paint on top rather than going down the traditional route of tiling - its really easy to work with and get a great modern look. Also, hardibacker board from Topps Tiles which I used to create the air gap, as the boards are 12mm I cant over emphasise the importance of an air gap - when i took down the previous stove installation as we moved the stove, i found out just how dangerous the installation was and how lucky we were. The wood behind the tiles was burnt and scorched as it had no airgap between the tiles and wood. This time I completed the installation and used soliftec as a guide. The stove is much closer to the fire surround than the previous installation, but due to the airgap the wood behind the skamotec is stone cold to the touch. Much safer and happier

There are 2 road swing bridges in Inverness which need to be coordinated due to the emergency services needing access to the city and beyond so they aren't both open at the same time. These bridge can and have broken down - We have had it in Inverness with the swing bridges during the summer heat, that when they swung one of the bridges it wouldn't shut again as it had expanded enough just so as to not close properly, very funny but potentially quite serious consequences if it happened to both as would would cut the city in half

Have a look at Baumatic, these have lpg jets and FFD as standard on their gas appliances. They run off 240v; even if you aren't connected to the mains and use matches to light the hob the FFD still works. The oven fan will also run off a sine wave inverter.

Agree with being responsible for what you post, just like any other forum, but you dont own the space it occupies. This may be a pubic forum, but the reality is it is closed space. In signing up to any forum you sign away any certain rights and freedoms, posting or being able to comment is at the discretion of a mod, so it is not a right, it is a privilege. Blackrose - thankyou for taking the time to respond to the original post and yes the houdini hatch is in that space so a small one can reach the hatch from the bed.

Considering i created the thread i thought i better actually post. You went well off topic as the thoughts were about the actual concept of Losing the bow beck - i refer to the OP and it seems this thread has spiralled into something else. If you think it doesnt look right that is a fair comment - its just some of the other comments made arent keeping within the context of the site rules. As for 'right to reply or general comment' you might want to reacquaint yourself with http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules - Our aim is to provide a forum for focused, high quality discussion. We therefore request that with the exception of the Virtual Pub forum, all posts should be kept on topic and banter free. This facilitates quality discussion and is for the benefit of all members. Moderators (Site Crew) reserve the right to close, edit or remove any topic or post without justification.........so you don't have the right to reply or general comment (good or bad) as your posts are owned by this forum, just like any other forum.

Do you mean something like this http://www.apolloduck.co.uk/display.phtml?aid=170786 Having spoken again with our fabricator, he said he will be able to use machinery to bend the steel (cabin sides and roof) to match any existing lines to remain in keeping. Something i dont quite understand is the terminology, kness and stringers and where these are on the boat.

We've spoken to someone about this and that is what they have also recommended, is cutting up the original bulkhead but leaving 130mm surround in place, then adding the new bulkhead to the gas locker. Getting the cabin sides to match is a good point!

For a while weve been thinking about creating some more internal space on our 57'x10' widebeam, cruiser stern. Instead of having a cratch cover installed on the bow, the idea was to remove the current bow bulkhead and weld in place a new bulkhead against the gas locker, thereby removing the doors completely and having no bow deck - we really dont use the bow deck and its wasted space. SO the bow deck would then become part of our bedroom Low and behold in next months copy of 'canal boat' the widebeam 'Ansuka' has had this done - http://www.canalboat.co.uk/in-this-issue-index Would it be possible to retro fit this new bulkhead and completely remove all traces of the existing bulkhead without compromising the integrity of the structure?

ENOUGH please, i appreciate everyones input on the vented, closed and pressure relief systems that have been discussed on this thread. I have the information i need to make a decision based on the information from here and elsewhere, i thank you all for the banter and input. People will agree and disagree on the merits of whats best and thats what makes for great discussion. The last piece of the jigsaw which you'll be pleased to know doesn't relate to the type of system im using, is shopping for a 'pipe stat' The pipe stats ive seen are for 240v or are they also able to work from 12v supply?

I think i'll have myself one of these its far to early for

Have a read of this http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/vented-or-pressurised.html What im suggesting is something in between - where, the sealed header tank creates pressurise, has the ability to expand but will also vent when it reaches a certain pressure.