dor

I think the one you are describing is a Centreflex. Their basic coupling is a flexible rubber coupling wihch allows a little angular deflection, but doesn't take any thrust. I have a Python Drive, similar to an aquadrive, and it made a huge difference as it takes all the thrust from the prop. This allows the engine mounts to be softer, and the whole thing is a lot quieter.

Do you mean it wobbles as in loose with lots of play, wobbles as in the tiller arm moves but the rudder doesn't, or is that it wobbles when under way due to the turbulence?

Think I'll fit an expansion tank, and take the PRV outlet through a skin fitting for good luck. I am also planning on fitting a twin coil calorifier. To replace the existing one means taking the Alde out and working in a very fiddly spot, so may well fit the new calorifier under the bed and leave the existing one where it is. This then raises the question - should I use both? If so, I was thinking of plumbing them in series. Any one done this? Also would it be better to connect the engine-connected heating coils in parallel or series? One scenario: Two tanks in series, two coils in series, take water off from tank that is heated first, and therefore hotter. Two tanks would either heat up completely, or if the second one was only warm, it would at least act as a pre-heater for the other. Alternatively two coils in parallel, but would there be sufficient heat cominfg from the engine or would I finish up with double the quantity of warm water? Any informed comments gratefully received.

Most forecasters have enough trouble telling you what the weather is going to be like tomorrow - let alone in ten days time! Think We will be going on saturday (boating the rest of the weekend)

Hi Daniel We will probably be mooring in our usual spot, in the wide part south of Nantwich that is also used as a winding hole (but just beyond the marked bit of course). Nice peacful spot, not too far from the town if you want to go in.

My welding was once described by someone as "pidgeon shit welding". On closer examination I could see exactly what he meant.

Hi Daniel : When will you be coming through Nantwich? I'll be on my boat this weekend.

Thanks for the comments. I was pretty sure of the theory, but just wondered what the normal practice was for taking the outlet from the PRV and how much dribbling people get. I would expect some water to come out when the system heats up, as it has to allow for expansion. 44psi may sound a lot but it is not much really, and would soon be reached by expansion, but should be well below the level of the pump shutoff. THe PRV going to the bilge is an irritation. I think the answer lies in fitting an accumulator and/or running the pipe out through a skin fitting.

But the expansion must be accomodated somehow - without an accumulator it has got to be through letting some water out.

I should have pointed out: I don't have an accumulator fitted, as a result quite a bit of water is pushed out everytime the system heats up. If I did fit an accumulator, can I reasonably expect very little to be put out by the PRV? This might explain things, as I believe the previous owner did have an accumulator fitted at one time, but had removed it, probably not long before I took it over. Does it matter where the accumulator is connected? Diagrams always show it near the pump, but it would be much easier to fit it near the calorifier at the other end of the boat. As pressure is transmitted through a liquid virtually instantaneously, logic suggests that it shouldn't matter. THanks for your quick response guys.

When I first got my boat, the vent pipe from the pressure relief valve on top of the calorifier went into a plastic car-type header tank, probably a couple of litres capacity, with a standard pressure cap. On our first trip out, a pipe blew out of a hep2o connector, and the pump quietly emptied the recently filled water tank into the boat. On getting back to the marina, this was one of the things for them to check out. They disconnected the header tank and ran a pipe back to the bilge. Now I have a nicely non-leaking stern tube I would like to change the system of disposing of the excess water. Now as far as I know, these pressure relief valves (the ones with the red knurled knob on the top) are only one way, so I can't see the purpose of the header tank. If the water could be drawn back into the calorifier as it cooled and contents contracted it would work, but surely the relief valves don't work like this? Besides which, if the pressure drops it will just be replaced by the pump. So why would the tube be connected to a header tank, unless it was just there to hold the water and it had to be emptied every so often. Has anyone else got such a system? I have considered taking the pipe out the side through a skin fitting. What is the normal way of dealing with this water? THanks to you all in advance.

The Rec.waterways newsgroup has recently reported that he might be about: J.R.Alsop May 16, 5:11 pm show options Newsgroups: uk.rec.waterways From: "J.R.Alsop" <c...@nildram.co.uk> - Find messages by this author Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 22:11:53 +0100 Local: Mon,May 16 2005 5:11 pm Subject: Finch Alert Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Report Abuse Finch was sighted in Cosgrove over the weekend, keep your eyes open!.

Sorry folks: I was going by the cost I was told 2 or 3 years ago for full installation. Maybe they have come down in price. Or maybe the boat supplier I was talking to at Crick was being optimistic. Apologies again.

And how long did it take him to notice?

I think you have to put it into context with the cost. They are not cheap. Yes, I expect we would all have them if they were cheap, but at several thousand pound a time you have to consider if it is worth it. I can think of better things to do with the money, so whilst I have constraints on my expenditure, pending those 6 right numbers coming up (preferably at the same time), I'll try and manage without one.

Think it depends on where you are. I can honestly say that in over four years on my present boat with over 1,200 hours of cruising, I have not experienced a single problem (except for abuse and the odd handful of maggots from fishermen for having the temerity to drive my boat down the canal). This is however on the Shroppie, T&M, Staffs & worcs, Caldon, Weaver, Runcorn & Bridgenorth - i.e. north midlands & north west. Had no problem in same area on other boats previously either. However I can well believe in other areas it can be more of a problem. Tony is yet again saying he will do something about the yob culture, but seems more concerned about their fashion than actually arresting the little B*tards and making life difficult for their irrresponsible parents. Also, some of the characters on the canal could well attract more undesirable attention - some of them get me close to having a go with their arrogant attitude (my wife usualy tells me to be quiet and go away).

Usual practice is for everyone to shuffle up as the boats at the front go into the lock. If Single handed, you are not expected to help out in advance, but once you are on the bollards and the boat in front is going in, it is good form to go up to the lock to help out. Unfortunately more and more people seem to regard locking as a spectator sport and only grudgingly go up to the lock at the last moment. They of course miss out on the pleasure of having a chat with fellow boaters and catching any useful gossip.

I don't have a bow thruster. There have been odd times when it would have been useful, I can't dispute that. However I've never yet been in a situation where a bow thruster is the only answer. In view of their cost, maintenance and potential problems I can live without one. If however I was having that mythical lottery win-funded boat built with no expense spared I might just be tempted.

That handrail look identical to the one on my 1989 LB. I think they used that style on cruiser sterns only.

Errr , here here!!!

I've used Hammerite Smooth in my engine 'ole and round the weed hatch and similar places. You can paint it straight on the rust and it works! Get as much of the loose stuff off and make sure it is reasonably clear of oil, slap it on and recoat within 1 to 8 hours (before it has cured). It goes on quite thickly, and once hardened off is reasonably resistant to knocks etc. Important thing is to ensure that the rusty bits are completely dry, then further rusting should be stopped. Good range of colours.

I don't want to argue with a professional as I am sure your experience of these things is much greater than mine. However I put down laminate flooring in my conservatory. Cheapo cheapo - even cheaper while on offer - laminate floor from B&Q. It is about 6 mm thick and solid - a bit like the old formica. Definitely not MDF. I would expect it to withstand water quite well. Laid on a thin layer of foam and glued on the edges.