sueanddaren

This takes me back to the early 80's when BT first started using VRLA Agm Batteries. Despite having a sticker next to every terminal with the torque value and 6 warnings in the instruction manual they broke hundreds of terminal studs. Eventually they held a training course for there engineers and issued a suitable torque wrench and a very short insulated spanner. The problem was that the M8 studs were brass to increase the conductivity but they also insisted they were tin plated (to reduce the chance of corrosion) so they looked like steel. After that broken studs was a very very rare failure.

The script on the plate says Hurth in a hand writing font, the three transvers screws/bolts suggests a HBW50. Never seen a Chinese copy but the Baysan (Turkish) boxes look very similare just a bit boxier. Pretty sure the Thornycroft KT40 is a Kioti base like canaline use. But don't know about the other engines. Daren

This looks more like it :-Stop solenoid Replaces Kubota 16271-60010 16271-60012 BX2200D BX23D F2400 | eBay

Can I just correct something here:- spiral and tubular are very different There are only two spiral LA batteries the Gates/Hawker/Enersys beer can types and the Optima types but Im sure others have done the same by now. Tubular refers to the material tubes that surround the vertical spines of the pos plate and are packed with the pos active material. Most traction cells are tubular types but these days some try and do the same with flat plates. With regards a solution to the Sulphation issue it can be done in several ways, the traditional way is to make sure that there is plenty of acid available (low Sg Acid) so as the cells discharge and the crystals start to form they can go back into solution. You also need to make sure that the pos material utilisation is good and the pos to neg ratio is correct. Back in the day buoy lighting cells did exactly this, out at sea powering a light for 6 months at a time, this was the days before LED's or solar panels. The Eternity batteries can't do this as they are not flooded, but they could do it in different ways. I to await an explanation on how they have actually done it. Perhaps if Mr Batteries can't explain it he could get the CEO of Eternity batteries (Mark Stevenson ) to tells us.

I had exactly the same issue with a Iskra alternator (100A) on a Nanni 3.30N (Kubota 1305). The high voltage triggered an alarm on the ignition panel, and like you I learned to switch a load on (cabin lights). Like you I had it checked out by an alternator/starter motor repairer. Eventually I got tired of forgetting to put the cabin lights on and the alarm going off so just put a new alternator on.

I don't know if this helps but I'm pretty sure that the photo was taken traveling North on the Trent and Mersey canal just before Kings lock. The houses are very distinctive.

I suspect that the starter is not AGM so it will be much lighter, take that out first. Then tip the first AGM battery into the space that the starter was in so that you can get your right hand under it and use your left hand to lift the strap. Just make sure you insulate the terminals first so you do not short them out on the frame or the hull. Remember the AGM's will not leak acid even when tipped, but the starter will probably be just SLA so it will leak if put on its side.

I think that there are two Hankooks, Hankook power control and Hankook atlasbx one has a red triangle symbol and one has a symbol with three wings. In the battery industry its not uncommon to have different companies using the same brand name I can think of at least 4 Exide companies.

Trojan are now part of C&D and not what they used to be.

Some bedtime reading if you look at some of the reference papers:- Low Impact Narrowboat V7 Text

Any use? :-Quick Stainless Steel Calorifier Immersion Heating Element - 800W / 220V | eBay

Over a hundred year ago we used lamp black (Carbon powder) in the paste of Lead acid batteries it improved the conduction of the active material. Great for high rate discharge (ie starter batteries). In cyclic batteries we used fibers to bind the paste together and resist the growing and shrinking that takes place as the cells are cycled. Over the years these fibers have been asbestos, polyester or glass fiber now it is cheaper to use Carbon fiber in products that require high rate discharge and cycling abilities so any quality manufacturer will now use them as standard. This is typical marketing BS trying to make a cost saving sound like you are getting some fantastic technical break through. I could quote many more so called improvments which are actually just cost savings. As for most flooded Lead batteries being pretty much the same I suggest you look at Plante, Mass type, Iron clad, or TPPL. The cheap Automotive types that most boaters use are pretty much the same, but in the battery world they really are at the cheap end of a very wide spectrum.

This what you are looking for? :-Flexible EPDM Rubber Radiator Water Coolant Hose Heater Pipe Convoluted Rad Tube | eBay

There were 'issues' with the web site which meant it had to be taken down. The project was allocated a share of Halton Borough Council grant from government funding of 3.8 million but as the council control this there hasn't been much evidence of progress. I am assured that there is alot going on at a higher level. It's not the full project but it's a start. If you look at the public page there is some more up to date information. https://www.facebook.com/unlockruncorn

Male threads definitely taper.

Unfortunatley having left it for 48 hours for the sealer to go off, when I filled the tank the joint started to drip. So I had to re-drain the tank and use PTFE tape and sealer (why do none of my plumbing jobs ever go right). Looks to be OK now as I re-filled and ran the engine and had the emersion heater on for 1/2 hour without a drop.

As usual I'm impatient with these things so had a quick go with my offset open ended spanner (tank full) and to my surprise it turned very very easily, possibly due to there being no corrosion and someone having used a thread sealant. So new valve on, just going to give it 24 hours for the tru blu to go off before filling and testing it hot.

So this weekend I will assemble the spanners I need, so far only found open enders and one offset open ender and worried that these might just round the hex on the valve so might just make up an offset ring spanner with a slot to go over the tank spigot. If it does round I will go buy a crows foot head of the right size. Will report back early next week.

Why the full tank?

OK folks the calorifier is one of these:-Sigmar Marine INOX 40L & 60L Compact Twin Coil Calorifier (yachtboatparts.com) So no real way of getting hold of the spigot coming out of the tank. I need to change the PRV as the drain on it leaks (it is a PRV and drain combined) I think its a common problem on these.

I need to fit a new PRV to my calorifier. The fitting coming out of the tank is 1/2 BSP (male) in stainless steel (as is the tank) the PRV is chrome plated brass. Which is best at avoiding damage to the tank, applying pressure to the spanner on the valve or giving the spanner a quick tap with a hammer? For some reason I always have problems with pipe fittings.

If that was Hollingsworth and Vose we probably met many times ( ex Chloride/Hawker/Enersys) Daren

Ronaldo47 posted this a couple of years back:- Posted May 30, 2022 Unlike ordinary lubricating greases,which are designed to strongly adhere to metal surfaces to prevent them coming into contact,;Vaseline is a pure hydrocarbon that readily flows under pressure and does not strongly adhere to metals. It therefore allows the metal surfaces to achieve a good electrical contact while preventing atmospheric oxygen from coming into contact with the mated surfaces and oxidising them.

Thanks gents the two plumbers I showed the photo to just shrugged their shoulders. But they where quite young.

Does anyone know how one of these comes apart? Does it have a washer or some sort of sealing face? As its very old I don't want to break anything.