jakub

Hi, I have exactly the same problems with my Rinnai. Were your problems resolved, if so, please will you post the solution? Thanks. Jakub.

Thanks, Bengo. Unfortunately I did not manage to remove the heat exchanger bit from my heater, because the flue hood was in the way and I couldn't find the way to pull it out:( However: I disconnected the pipework at the heater and using huge plastic syrynge I flushed it with a. Vinegar b. Kettle descaler (Oust). I put the heater back together, but before that I used the well-proven method: tapped it gently with the spanner, here and there.... And: hey presto, it works again. Thanks for advice.

I decided to remove diode thing in the end and now I am charging these batteries at 14.4V. At the moment they are on constant charge from solar at 13.70v anyway, so I expect them to serve me for years. Not fussed by quick charging too much, prefere reliability.

Just take a front cover off. Take a piezzo button apart and clean it. If it does not work, replace (buying a new one on alde website). Very straightforward job. Ps. Be careful not to lose any bits and pieces.

Gosh. That got me scared a bit. Mat not be mooring at Vicky Park this summer. Hate being mugged.

Simply: minimum usage, maximum charge. So: LED lights, no TV, limit laptop to minimum, gas fridge AND big solar panel. I live off solar for most of the year.

I have got L - shape, corner mounts, which I simply glued to the roof. I bought them of eBay. They look very presentable although they will not allow you to rotate the panel.

Mine is cooper. No rubber connections.

Gas fridge?

Thanks, for the replies. I don't have shoreline connection..so I cannot test my batteries. They are numax marine type (CXV Leisure).Not expensive. I will try to find spec which is not going to be easy, because I have tried already, but I do not think they have got Calcium technology. I looked at various diodes and I could not decide which to go for. What current rating should I be looking at? Schottky sounds good, but I couldn't find them and I wasn't sure what was I looking for. Any advice? Thanks.

Ok. It seems sensible to have a bypass switch with different diode. Or no diode at all...the voltage measured is at battery terminals. Amps delivered around 3-4 at 15.0 V, that is when I assume batts are fully charged. From what I see I have been overcharging these batteries a bit, and certainly to replace water is going to be a bit tricky (impossible even? Hmmm) . Thanks for all advice.

Thank you. Ok it seems I need to change the diode...

...or will the electrolite evaporate and I will not be able to top them up? I have the the 55A alternator with the diode mod which seems to give me that kind of voltage. Thanks.

aghhh. Trying to source the new pump. Unfortunately DIPERK does not have my engine number in the system. Because of that I also asked a company called welland power for help. Both companies could not identify my engine: type 104.19 number KF30234 After some email exchange with both of them I got these results: DIPERK suggests part number: U4501795 WELLAND POWER suggest part number: U45017952 I think the pump should look something like this (which is WELLAND POWER suggestion): but I might be wrong. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jerry.

Hi, My Perkins MC42 engine (KF 104-19) developed a coolant leak. I traced it carefully only to discover that the leak is coming from the axis of the pulley of the water pump. (). I contacted the mechanic and he said that it is the need for the new pump. He said that if the seal is gone it cannot be replaced without "hydrolic press" or something like that, therefore I need a new pump. I will try to contact Diperk to obtain the part (parts?) number. Any advice so far? Is changing a water pump really necessary? Is it an easy job? What other parts will I need to buy (i.e gaskets etc?) any help much appreciated, Jakub

...or they going to evaporate/explode without topping up being possible? thanks.

thanks, I found the engine number (KF 30234) ans sent it to Diperk. Response: we cannot find this engine in our lists, so we cannot supply the part. They suggested that it is a marine engine (Perkins Sabre)and told me to call a company called Finning, which I did, and they were unhelpful. Stuck.

Thanks for all replies! Now I am in the process of trying to indentify the part number for this banjo bolt and washers. Diperk said that 'they might be able to supply them' but I need to tell them the exact engine serial number - which I don't know [apparently it is located behind the injector pump, but I don't fancy dismantling the whole engine in order to get to the number plate]. In the meantime I went through dozens of manuals and booklets available online and still could not find the part number. I will be calling local mechanic this evening, but maybe some of you will have a clue, where can I find the part? Based in London (Brentford). Thanks.

Hello, I had an oil leak from the side of the housing of the low oil pressure warning lamp sending unit. I tightened the bolt and snapped it off in the process. I will need a replacement, but I cannot figure out what is the part name I am looking for. It is not the sender unit bolt itself that snapped, but the bolt on the side of the housing on which the sender unit bolt sits. The bolt had a hole through the length of it, presumably to allow the oil to go through. This bolt was attached to the thin oil pipe running down to the sump. The image: Thanks, Jakub.

Thank you for all the replies. I might connect something there anyway - some coloured LEDs - to make it look professionally.

Hi, I have recently bought a solar panel MPPT regulator and I wonder how to connect it. Initialy I thought that it just a matter of connecting a regulator to a battery and to a solar panel, however a model I bought has additional connection for the "LOAD". Can that connection be be omitted? I prefer all my loads to be connected as they are (through the fuse box to the battery), what will happen if I will not connect any load to the regulator? (Model of MPPT is "Juta Mppt 20") Thanks.

I recently bought Aarrow's Ecoburn 5. Not the cheapest option perhaps, but we are pleased with it. Very controlable, warm and stays lit for 24 hrs. Airwash doesn't really work very well, but it needs to be said the true winter hasn't come yet so we don't burn it full blast yet.

coming back to this thread... but why wrap the lamps in tin foil?

How to connect Huawei e220 to the antenna? Has anyone tried to open the case and find the internal socket and than attached it somehow to the antenna or shall i try to use some kind of waistbands, wraps or other things I can wrap around the modem? Thanks.