Tracy D'arth

No, if the pump was slow the Webasto would overheat and shut down. The burner is not burning enough diesel to produce sufficient heat in the water. Are you sure that it is not warming the engine or the skin tank?

Either move the prop shaft backwards or unbolt the input shaft from the gearbox flange.

Could well have been a Beta service engineer, they do a lot of new installs.

Not forgetting it was mice that did it. 5 of the best books ever written.

42 is the answer to Life, the Universe and Everything. If you want to know the question, that will take much longer!

I thought so. Dumping the heat into the engine or cut is the only possibility if the heater is running and not heating his hot water systems. I do wish folk could be more specific when asking questions then we could give better advice.

An 8mm compression ball valve certified for gas is fine on diesel.

A new installation, or a new fault or has it always been like this? If its burning diesel, the heat has to be going somewhere. Is the engine getting hot? Be more specific, what is not working, domestic hot water or central heating radiators?

I like mine tarnished, not cleaned in 30 years. They look the same every day.

Perhaps it started to slip and it has friction welded itself causing snatching and heat, ending up as cracking. Check the taper inside the tyre side plate for metal transferred by welding. You need a clean bore for the new taper lock bush to seat properly.

The taper lock bush goes in from the inside of the tyre so you have to disassemble the whole thing. I don't think I have ever seen one break up like that.

I have had to do this on a few BMC installations, they have a direct return line to the tank from the filter head and often the engine will run, with the fuel tap turned off, with a full tank and suddenly stop when the fuel level drops.

Could be getting fuel via the return to tank from the injector spill rail or the injection pump return pipe. Was the tank very full at the time?

You may be right, pix too bad to tell.

Thanks for your blog, enjoyed reading it. Comments. Trying to do too many miles is a common problem when you hire a boat, with your own and more time you learn to slow down and do more exploring. Tyrley locks bywashes. They run more when the locks above are being emptied, hence the top one is easier. The secret is to watch and wait till the flow on the lower ones subsides before trying to enter going up. Best is to get someone ahead filling the next lock up if there are lots of boats coming down and up. They are vicious, I prefer to do the ring clockwise so that I am descending the Shroppie locks. Tillers and standing. Semi trad and cruiser stern boats leave the steerer out in the elements hanging on a tiller. Try a trad stern and then you can lean in the hatches or sit on the roof and steer, much better than standing out on the deck. Then the height of the tiller begins to make sense, it just clears the top of the cabin. Ratchet windlass is a waste of money, seen loads that are never used. What is needed is a windlass with 3 sockets at different lengths on the bar then you can use the longest throw providing your knuckles miss the lock beams. I make my own. The pressed tin rubbish that hire fleets give you are terrible, they don't fit the spindles properly and are too short in the throw. Clothes. Bring cheap/used disposable underwear, wash it in the shower and dry it next to the engine. Charity shops for shirts and trousers and a pullover, dump them at the airport as you leave. Wash less, wear clothes longer, its good for the planet. When are you back in the UK again?

The mechanical fuel pump can get a leaking diaphragm which dumps petrol into the sump oil, happens a lot. If the oil is very thin and smells of petrol it is diluted.

Yes, if you get it going and run it flat out for hours it will clean the combustion chamber because it will burn at a higher temperature. Like most things that burn diesel they need thrashing occasionally. Kerosine will be fine if you can't find paraffin.

Agreed. It is probably coked up especially if it has not been burning properly. I have never used one of these but my friend has had one for years and he runs it on paraffin for a goodly time occasionally to clean it out. Try it, disconnect the fuel line and dip it into a bottle of paraffin. Try it with the engine running to get the glow plug proper hot.

A bulge in the bilge? Sounds bad!

If the OP meant Tyrley then OK. I know of no Tyerley locks. The winding is private and roped off, no longer a winding hole.

No, there are no springs or traps! The drawing on the post before will help you understand how it works. The input shaft has a taper bush attached which locks by the taper into one side. The output shaft is similar locked into the other side. The tyre fits in grooves in both sides and transmits the drive. So a loose tyre or either taper bush loose on the requisite shaft or loose in the tyre will stop it driving. They are normally very dependable but don't like getting oily. Fenner still make these I believe.

Its a Fenner split tyre coupling. The tyre looks OK from your photo. The coupling has 2 tapered locking bushes inside which are on the 2 parts of the shaft. These may have become unlocked allowing the shaft to turn but not drive the tyre. To dismantle you remove all the bolts and it falls apart.

Written on the wall/cover/deck with a felt tip pen will pass inspection.

Hack green was like that last year in September when I reported it.