Tracy D'arth

A spring non return valve in the outlet of the pump may stop it syphoning but it would have to be before the accumulator especially if there is no expansion vessel on the hot water system.

It will still syphon the tank contents into the boat!

Was perhaps filling with already diluted AF, premix, but its an expensive way to buy water.............................................

Elucidate on " hot water problems" please. No hot water? Too hot? cold radiators? Normally a maximum of 25% antifreeze. 20% will be enough.

Jump starting points towards low or knackered engine battery. If it won't start with jump leads then either the jump leads are thin rubbish ( you only need one to jump off the cabin batteries positive to the engine battery positive so use both leads together if they are thin ) OR you have a bad connection, you did say that the negative got hot? Classic bad connection. Run it till the batteries are charged which is not 2 hours every day or so, you will destroy batteries doing this. If on the Oxford, ask Tony to come and show you how to charge batteries and find your problem.

Surely £5 per foot is just for lifting out! 😂

They probably found the flat battery.

I know several people who have used epoxy 2 pack blacking inside water tanks without any problem with potability or taint of the water. I also know several who use epoxy glue to fix their dentures and they are still around years later. The stuff you can buy for replacing dental caps and fillings is epoxy. They stick cuts in hospitals with superglue ( I know that is isocyanate, not epoxy ) so perhaps all these chemicals are not a health problem.

I could have been a potty idea from Jasper.

Easy, I can do you a comfy central heated flat in Lancashire for £8,700 including band A tax, parking and water but with your attitude towards me, you are not having it. Your flat was in a terrible area of Glasgow I believe.

I thought so. I think the A series engines were 5/8". I had an open end crowfoot, not strong enough. I hope your welding is up to it!

I thought they were 11/16" AF nuts,but time has passed...... Admirable bit of tool making, needs must etc.

If every boater dumped their teabags into the cut, the tannic acid would do the job, its what Fertan is.

I would drill a hole and use one of these:- https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-tank-connector-15mm/4635f No more rusting or problems with dissimilar metal corrosion.

Nothing is free on the canals. It is now dearer to live on a boat legitimately than in a house/flat.

That is similar to the official special tool that BMC used to sell. I use a ring crowfoot 1/2" drive.

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386131226534? is much cheaper. 1 1/2" I think.

I like this one from Pura. A reducer in the outlet if required. https://assets-large.qssupplies.co.uk/QS-V15272_1_lg.jpg

Engine model? A new fault or has it been like this for some time? Did you change anything before this started happening? How long since you ran the engine? Where are you?

Well, its a nice trip.

Another vote for Northwich Dry Dock. You will find practically everywhere already booked. Or Ask Tomaz at Wincham Wharf on the T&M Northwich ( where Harrals used to be ) where you may get it in now on the hard standing and its high enough to do the baseplate too. Job done for you or DIY.

I still think that you could find a nut to go inside..........................................

You need a filament warning lamp from the "ignition" switch to the D+ to excite the (running) alternator, then you will get the voltage on the D+ terminal.

A wise decision. Rather than a helper on the outside could you use a nut on the inside?