crossley

Sounds like a taper mounted bearing. Is it a thin round ring nut with 4 slots in it and a tab washer around the shaft? If it is, then What you are seeing is the end of the adaptor sleeve. tightening the skf ring nut draws the tapered adaptor collet through the tapered bearing bore clamping the bearing onto the parallel shaft. Once the nut is backed off the bearing can be driven off the taper with a brass drift and a big hammer. They can be really tight.

Is the engine mounted centrally, or offset to one side? I have a similar set up with an offset engine and a long truck prop shaft arrangement running under the back cabin. I get the same rumbling noise at certain low speeds, but can usually find a sweet spot where the vibrations cancel out. I think it's a product of the engine torque reversals, backlash in the gearbox and the long unsupported prop shaft. One day I'll look at fitting CV joints, but it's been like that for years now. Two things I did that helped reduce the vibrations were to reinforce the Plummer block bearing mounting with additional plating between the base plate and the bearing support making it really solid. Also I fitted a heavy coil spring and washers inside the splined end of the shaft to put some preload on the bearings. This made most improvement. I used an old valve spring and an assortment of washers to give some end load. This is assuming your shaft is splined at one end and your Plummer block is taking the thrust. Firstly though I'd strip and clean the bearing make sure it's ok. If the outer race is thick enough, you can always fit an anti rotation peg by grinding a square notch on the corner with a thin slitting wheel and drill and tap the housing to suit for a grubscew, say M4 or M5. Hope this helps.

When Paul Gardner's overhauled my pump top they erased the old lines and scribed New ones. The sprayers were numbered to each cylinder and the output balanced on the gardner machine. Maybe some pump shops aren't so particular.

Do the easy stuff first. First use the priming levers to check the injectors all make squeak or grunt when the lever is pulled quickly. Check they all have a similar resistance, ie take the same effort to operate. Do this with each fuel pump tappet in turn at the bottom of its stroke. Check tappet clearance and decompresor shaft adjustment on no 1 cyl. Remove flywheel inspection cover and check timing lines align with the scribed lines in the little Windows on the pump. It does sound as if no. 1 cyl is getting little or no fuel. It's not smoking badly so compression is good. If no1 fuel pump lever is easier to operate than the others, check the delivery valve spring is ok.

As above. It looks like the vetus unit on mine. the two stainless cap screws go through the motor stool, the wall of the tube and into the bronze hub carrying the impeller inside the tube. Don't undo them unless your in dock and have access to the tube to 're- make the joint once you disturbed it. It's not the most robust mounting arrangement but seems to work ok. If it's not leaking leave well alone. Again, A coffer dam or a full height bulkhead is a good idea should the worst happen.

This was an attempt at actually measuring fuel consumed whilst moving, against a stopwatch. Once you add in other variables, like river currents, waiting at lock landings, battery charging etc, the results would be different again, more in line with your results. Remember I'm only measuring over one hour under optimum conditions, I.e engine fully warmed up, very little parasitic loads etc.

Have been playing about with a calibrated fuel measuring flask for a while now, it's really just a little two pint tank with a glass tube on one side marked in 1/16 pint divisions. Results so far are between 1 9/16 to 1 5/8 pints per hour, over timed 1 hour runs, with fully charged batteries, at normal cruising speeds. This bears out the average of a litre an hour, for most narrowboats, this being a little less, at around 0.9 litres per hour. This is for a 65 foot trad, driving 24x19 prop through 2:1 reduction. Draft 30" alternator load minimal, 5-6 amps, lighting load. Probably not far short of what a modern engine can achieve. The above figures were measured over time, not distance travelled, at a sensible cruising speed.

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So the plan is to make a hydraulic coupling between your engine, and the input shaft of the enfield drive? So the reduction and clutch function is being retained? I can't remember, does the enfield have an integral clutch for fwd/astern? So your going to have to make two adaptor plates, to carry the motors/pumps, two couplings, pipework between the two, a header tank, a relief valve, pressure and return line filters, and possibly a cooler. If you can afford it, it would be best to let a specialist company specify the equipment, and let them take full responsibility for design, installation, flushing and commissioning. Flushing is vital, and cannot repeat cannot, be over stressed. The slightest suspicion of contamination in the system, be it dirt, swarf, water etc, can destroy a pump in seconds. Hydraulics are very reliable, as long as the oil is clean and free of water. It ain't just a matter of coupling a couple of motors together with flexible hoses! Make a start by looking at what torque and speed input the enfield drive requires, and find a motor that fits the bill, from makers catalogues. This will give you the required flow, which will allow you to size the driving pump and pipework. Look at Dennison, Parker, Vickers, Bosch hydraulic catalogues for some ideas. Try and keep the working pressure as low as practical, by using large displacement low pressure pumps rather than high pressure low volume pumps. Best of luck.

Portland basin has a good covered drydock not expensive either. For longer dockings try Jalsea marine northwich, plenty of hardstanding and facilities.bit hard to find, you drive through a council estate to get to it, it's . On the weaver.

If you still need a spare pinion gear for your starter, I found one the other day. Looks unused, has 5549/306d stamped on the end. Bronze. 13 teeth. Pm me if you want it. I can post it or something. Collect Manchester area.

My father ran a fleet of fx 4 taxis in the late 60`s through the 70`s with the bmc 2.2 engines, clapped out ex london rejects they were, held together with chewing gum, spit and hope. These all had the 3 main bearing cranks, being 2.2s . in 1977, queens silver jubilee year, he 're named it jubilee taxis, and splashed out on a brand new fx4, mnc 385p. The only new vehicle he ever had. This had the new 2.5 engine, an alternator, not a dynamo, and those funny little heater plugs in parallel, instead of the 2 volt series things that never seemed to work. It was an improved & updated replacement for the 2.2, with 5 main bearings. I'm wondering now if there was an early version of the 2.5 with a 3 bearing crank, later ones having 5? I was talking to mate of mine today who had a taxi repair business around this time, he remembers bmc 2.5`s having a 5 main bearing crank too. I put one in a series 2 landrover once, was a popular conversion at the time.

No. Bmc 2.2 had 3 main bearings 2.5 has 5 main bearings.

Reddish isn't that bad, compared to errm.. no can't see any tourist potential in it either. Might gentryfy the area a bit though, put nelstrops mill and lanky hill on the map.. if we renamed it New Chelsea or something, it might attract rich foreign investors, bit like when they re named ancoats and beswick New islington. Was just wondering like what the aqueduct looked like, the canal pre dated the railway, so it must have been built around 1860s ?

I used to work down at the bottom of station road in the 1980s, at Rowland grinders, shown as climax works on the map, and remember the hump on station road where the canal bridge was, by adamson containers. Alas reddish electric is no more, a very new housing estate there now. My father remembered it being built early 50`s . Reinstating the aqueduct across a double track railway is going to take some doing, don't think it's going to 're open any time soon.

Was cycling the fallowfield loop the other day, and tracing what is left of the stockport branch canal around debdale park reservoir and north reddish. There was an aqueduct carrying the canal over the railway just before reddish north station. Anyone remember it? Or know what it looked like? Or when it was demolished ?All traces have vanished, no abutments or anything can be seen from the bridge over the railway at reddish electric depot, looking towards reddish north station. Nothing to be seen on Google earth either, it was very close to Beresford crescent apparently.

I'd suggest that unless your interested in the engine per se, get something modern and supportable. After all you are missing out on 60 years of diesel development having an old engine, like a snapshot from the past. Lk spares are out there, but you have to track them down. The last ones were built in 1968 ish. Check If there are any spares with the vessel, and try to obtain them. Get both the engine manual, and the workshop tools book, read and inwardly digest. They are no more difficult to work on than any other engine, though like most Gardner's, you can't withdraw the pistons up the cylinder bore, the cylinder block is lifted from the crankcase instead. The crankshaft runs in thick wall gunmetal bearings, not thin wall shells in the accepted sense. The bearing areas are massive, and wear very slowly. They do have one unusual feature, that the Cambox and timing Chain are lubricated by surplus oil from the pressure relief valve. In a worn engine at idle the pressure can drop enough to starve these of oil. 37 psi is about right. The sump can corrode, I've broken a couple of badly corroded engines for spares, the alloy used is a magnesium alloy with the trade name Elektron. Most Lk`s had cast iron blocks and heads, though there was a special all aluminium version for private cars, but I think these were to special order and dropped during the war.

No more of a liability than any other engine really. I've owned Gardner's for well over 30 years now, and the lk is a wonderful engine. PROVIDED, IT'S in good condition, I.e built to the correct running clearances, and properly set up. They can be a right box of frogs if they have been codged up, don't just look at the shiny bits. If you get a good one, you'll love it, there not too big for a 60 foot plus boat, but need to swing a big 24" prop if driving through a reduction box . They have a smaller bore and stroke than the lw series, and can rev to 2100 rpm against the lw at 1700. Bore glazing won't be a problem if you use the right oil, and it shouldn't smoke if the injectors "sprayers" are right. Spares. You won't need any! If it's been done right. You'll never wear it out. The oil filter is a washable fine gauze, only the fuel filter needs changing and these are readily available. As for rpm , mine drives a heavy, 22 ton 65 foot trad through a 2:1 scg box , 24x19" prop. 400 to 600 rpm on shallow canals, 600 to 900 where you can get a move on. It will go up to 1850 on open water, but becomes uncontrollable. They are definitely an enthusiasts engine, just don't look at a 1935 designed engine with 2017 eyes, things have moved on. It will smoke a bit till it's warmed up a bit, but should be clear after a few minutes. That 2lw crank looks like fatigue failure. Not enough inertia in the revolving mass at idle to iron out the torque reversals. Comes of running too slowly for too long. Shame that, that's one crank ruined, they aren't making any more.

Sorry, just checked, all mine are 11 tooth. Try middletons auto electrics what's the application?

My 4lk uses the cav bs 5 starter also. I have the remnants of several in the shed, they may be one there. They are either 11or13 tooth. Can't remember. I'll look over the weekend. Two good firms to try, Middletons in Manchester, or west lancs auto electrics. You are wanting the pinion with the helix machined on one end aren't you?

I'd call Crowther marine if you haven't already. If anyone can help it will be them. Seems like you are limited in diameter for that 2:1 reduction ratio. You really need at least a 24" prop with that set up. My arrangement for example is a 4lk with 2:1reduction, 24x19 3 blade prop on a 65 foot trad hull. The shaft speed will be similar to yours, say 200 to 800 rpm. Your 3lw has more torque than my 4lk, I think, without looking it up, also. Can you not change the gearbox? I know prm boxes come in alternative ratios.or do you have the original gardner box?

Spent a few hours at crick show today, but nothing stood out, I think for now my instant water heater is going to remain the big copper kettle.. sometimes a little lateral thought pays off, I've found a thing called an "injector tee" which looks promising, and should speed the water through the coil on it's way back to the boiler. They are made esp for mixed gravity/pumped systems.

I like the idea of increasing the rate of heat transfer between the back boiler and calorifier by using a plate heat exchanger, but it's complicated by needing two additional circ pumps and extra tappings in the calorifier to create a pumped circuit, I'm going to try moving the circ pump first, as I think it's in the wrong place, and put swept tees into the coil circuit where it tees off the flow and return lines. Does anyone be have a little wenlock stove to heat their water? And how long does it take? The actual back boiler itself looks like a proper job, being a full height cast iron thing. On a day like today, an instant heater would be a boon. I'll be looking around tomorrow, getting some ideas.

Maybe, yes. Is there a modern instantaneous water heater that I could be having a look at whilst at the show,?maybe something new to me, I have given details of my installation so others can advise of a suitable unit, should such a thing exist. The gas boilers are I think going to be the quickest form of heating, but the choice is limited to the room sealed units now I'm told.

Will be going to the crick show this weekend, with an eye to what is available in on demand water heaters. I have the usual set up, a little wenlock back boiler stove gravity feeding a radiator in the fwd saloon done in 28&22 mm copper, and a calorifier coil by gravity too. Plus two rads on a 15mm pumped circuit going aft. Now the fwd rad has always worked all too well, but the hot water takes hours, I don't think the circulation is that good, it only being an 1/2" or so coil. So I have to either roast in the saloon for hours, run the main engine, or boil a kettle to get hot water. I'm not particularly keen on instant gas heaters, what with all the faffing about with special flues, and room sealed this and that, but what other options are there? I quite fancy the little webasto, but how to heat the fwd radiator as it's on the other side of the back boiler? A small dedicated heater just for hot water, showers etc, is just what I'm looking for. I don't have a shore supply, but can run the 1 kw immersion heater off the inverter, if need be, I have a big bus 24v alternator that copes easily with this, but it means hours on the engine.