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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

acdbox

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  1. Hello, and sorry for late reply. so, the advanced charger, batteries and solar I have are all from an old boat I had and electrical requirements equate to the equipment I already own. Essentially, the solar chargers most of the tea and would rely on the alternator for the rest. Honestly, with your reply, I understood it’s best to take care of solar first and can think about the advanced charger closer to when it’s getting dark again. Thank you
  2. Have re-read your post and think I understand better. Sorry for the extra questions. Andreas
  3. Hello Tony, thank you for replying. I don’t know enough obviously, so your reply has opened more questions. I didn’t realise an alternator would put an engine at risk. But also that the advanced charger would fail for some reason? I may stop before I even start. Thank you for taking the time to reply. Andreas
  4. Hello, its been a few years since I’ve been on a boat and trying to upgrade my electrics, but just need a refresh on a couple things please to install a sterling advanced alternator to battery charger. the engine is a small 720cc beta marine inboard and currently has the alternator connected to batteries via the starter motor. Is it out of the question to run a separate cable directly from the alternator to the advanced charger and if yes, would it be best to remove cable to starter motor? thank you
  5. Hello, I am wondering on the best adhesive to affix a rubber rubbing strake to steel, and for it to stay there! Any guidance is much appreciated. Thank you Andreas
  6. YIppee! All is now clarified. **** to confirm for all, a bubble tester is required for live aboard BSS examinations where the examiner is not gas safe register certified. If they are certified a test point will suffice. and with a bubble tested installed, there is no need for a further test point. **** thank you again very greatful
  7. Explains it perfectly! Thank you To be absolutely clear, just a bubble tester is sufficient and no need to put in a test point in addition? Thank you again
  8. Hi, thank you for replying. Phil, I think there is a possibility new regulations have come out recently so would be very interested in what the results of the 'look over' reveal for jddevel on friday? I would appreciate if you could post the results back here please JDDEVEL? Thank you again
  9. Hi, so I am attempting to get a Ducth boat happy with UK BSS but cannot seem to find anywhere categorically the information I am looking for in regards to Test point and Bubble tester. Basically, to pass a BSS does a bubble tester and Test point need to be installed or would just a single test point be sufficient? Thank you in advance Kind Regards Andreas
  10. Hi, It's a BMC 1.5, Just to be clear what exactly are the flange section? Is it the circular steel joint with the 3 smaller bolts, if so that is only on one side and not both. Haven't got a spanner large enough for the union sections + very heavily rusted so may not budge. Yes, Have an angle grinder but where to cut to preserve an easy replacement? Obviously you can guess I'm learning as I go here. Thanks again
  11. Hi, My exhaust silencer has severly rusted and needs replacing. Though am struggling to work out how to remove it? Any pointers are appreciated. Thanks Andreas
  12. Someone suggested that in the thread. Haven't gotten around to it year but shall do it as a matter of priority
  13. Been trying to upload this photo for the last hour. It displays an auto before the number as well as being able to change it via the range button. Yeah thinking I may give someone a call.
  14. Hi, no the analogies have been good, helpful to me understanding. Attempting to put it on the ohms setting and then change the range accordingly to the lowest setting. It basically has two option one with a k and one with an M. Then a further three options for where the decimal is placed within the screen. On the M option and the decimal set to read thousands (which I guess is milli ohms and thousands being the smallest reading possible?) it displays 0 and doesn't change when wires are touched. It has an auto option which displays 137.6 on screen not i or 1 like stated. When testing the alternator this goes down to 18. Deffinetly the ohm setting
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