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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. Warning - Pendant. Petrol engines hunt, diesels surge, but both are much the same but with different potential causes. As said above, I wish all questions were like this one with all the info.
  2. Yes, if the tool fouls the pump mounting studs the shaft is in the wrong place, but it will not tell you why. Knowing the pitch of the gear teeth, I don't see how the shaft has been fitted in the wrong position, but the master spline looks as if it is wrong. Personally, I would remove the pump mounting plate and withdraw the shaft so I could inspect the gear teeth (those on the camshaft as well) and only if they all look good would I take the timing cover off.
  3. So was it a total bodge up, or was it on a flywheel housing? If the latter than was there an SAE standard adapter late bolted to the back of the housing to accept the Velvetdrive. If the gearbox bolted straight onto the flywheel housing, then you can probably get more holes drilled, if needed, to fit the PRM and use longer bolts and a distance piece if needed. If there is an SAE adapter plate, then I think PRM or someone like ASAP supplies will sell you the correct one for a PRM.
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  5. Upon further thought, I think the "cams" on the inside of the cam ring are a special asymmetrical shape, so the ring probably can be fitted back to front.
  6. Yes, I think you are, but that T may be more than a simple T or there may be an extra fitting in one of the pipes. Either a restrictor or a one way valve that will also restrict the flow. This is based on the 1.5 diesel, so the Vedette may be different.
  7. For clarity, he did time on no. 1, the talk of no.4 was to say both valves were slightly open (valve overlap) so No. 1 was close to TDC. If he had timed on No. 4 then the master spline would be at 11 o'clock or the drive shaft would have been fitted 180 degrees out - then I doubt it would run. Thanks for implying that the master spllne does not look in the right place.
  8. I think that your list almost confirms what other have said. Most items are just look-sees to make an impressive list. I note nothing about checking for fault codes. If it starts up in the normal time and can run on all power modes then things like carbon on the plug and such like are unlikely to be critical.
  9. But the manual says set the engine to 22 DBTDC, not TDC, and then fit the drive shaft with the master spline at 7 o'clock. When you push it home it should revolve to settle at 5 o'clock. See below. Unfortunately, wishful thinking won't put the master spline at 5 o'clock. If there is any backlash at all with a bit of dowel driven into the splines under a light twist it will be backlash in the gears, although the handle on the gauge allows you more leverage to move the camshaft as well so any backlash is both in the gears and timing chain. Cam Ring; It is an internal part of the injection plump, but as it has a "lever" for automatic advance and retard screwed into it, I don't see how it can be fitted upside down, but as I have never been inside one, I can't be sure. Anyway, that green paint looks very familiar, so I may be acquainted with that actual engine. If this is the case than until I gave the engine away the pump was never even taken off the engine, let alone striped - neither were the injectors. It ran well enough off load without excess smoke. This supposes it is the same engine, it may not be.
  10. That is what I think it is, seeing it is mounted on the engine, but even if it is a sedimentor cone I think it should be a filter element, and yes the 296 filter will fit.
  11. The bit on top is a priming pump for bleeding. Yes, it does have the sediment and water bowl on the bottom, but with a longer bolt they can be fitted to any 296 type filter head. The question is what is in the cylinder between the head and bowl. It MIGHT just be an inverted cone, but as it is on the engine as the engine filter that would need changing to a 296 type filter, they can be interchanged.
  12. You show a pair of raw water inlet strainers that T into the raw water pump inlet hose. The photo shows the raw water pump outlet pipe, so follow this to see where it runs to. You can see the engine inlet point on the front of the engine, but nothing between the pump outlet and engine inlet so no idea that is going on, but I would expect a T so when the thermostat is closed water can still be delivered to the wet exhaust. You can also see a strainer on the pipe running into the engine. The water outlet on the engine is on the thermostat housing and this is shown in one of your photos, but not where it runs to. I fear that if you what us to help explain it, you either need to post a lot more photos showing ALL the pipework, or draw a diagram of what you find when you follow the pipes.
  13. My comments. The manual says that the master spline on the pump drive should end up at 5 o'clock, but yours looks a bit further round clockwise - say closer to 6 o'clock. The skew gear drive teeth are not fine enough to allow this, so it suggests the cam shaft timing may be out for some reason. As the master spline is not that far out, I wonder if the timing chain is very stretched. Let's tag @Tracy D'arth for her opinion. If you want exact timing that allows for backlash in the timing train then you do need the tool so you can set the pointer on the top left corner of the mounting plate that you can see in the photo, but I understand many mechanics today do it by ear, by twisting the pump with the engine running. If the oil jet and filter that lubricates the pump drive skew gears ha snot been regularly cleaned then on an old engine the skew gears could be very badly worn, so a new camshaft is needed.
  14. Maladjusted cables can cause a stiff spot on the control movement. If you want to check that put the lever in neutral and take the gear cable ff the gearbox end. Whatever secures it should just drop back into place. Then do the same for the throttle but put the lever is slow ahead or slow astern - NOT neutral. Again, the fixing should just drop into place. If you need to adjust, then the end fixings will usually screw up or down the cable thread.
  15. and when you have done that, put them back and disconnect the other end, one at a time, and try it again. As a proper set up control should not move the throttle cable until the gearbox is in gear, it sounds rather like a throttle cable problem, unless the engine lever is stiff.
  16. I just did a Google images search and all the oil pressure switches were far smaller. I still think it is an earth return gauge sender - all those with that tin can design on Google were.
  17. Which I think may actually be a metric thread, but not 100% sure.
  18. If you have an oil pressure warning light, then I don't think that you really need an oil pressure gauge, and there is no guarantee that the sender is working as it should. You should see its resistance alter as the engine starts up if you want to test it, but even that is not 100% definitive. If you decide to buy a gauge then be aware that there are two resistant standards US and European and if you mix senders and gauges from the two the gauge reading is likely to be roughly half or double what it should be.
  19. FWIW I had an email from a householder with something sounding very similar for a solar battery bank on his home. The suppliers were also apparently refusing to take them back. Did we not also have a report of a similar problem with Sterling, but they did the right thing. This might be a bad batch from the makers, not that it helps the OP much.
  20. Oil pressure sender for an oil pressure gauge. Oil pressure rarely fails so I would not carry a spare. Note - probably needs matching with the gauge.
  21. Especially as I posted a link to the first time he asked the question.
  22. To add to the above: sometimes the act of getting the tap to bite into the heat shield was enough to twist it free.
  23. Maybe because you asked a question that was asked only a few days ago so people get fed up with typing the same answer over and over again. Here you go: Guess what, that looks very much as if you posted that question and now re-ask it, but expect a different answer. Now you try to alter the question: "I thought someone might know if anyone is selling a boat or moving the boat to another location". If that is your question why not ask it at the start, you might get better answers. Don't get shirty when you seem to be acting as a bit of a prat and are taken as such.
  24. Mann & Hummel and some others make proper pocket filters (Swiss roll) so it does not have to be a Delphi one. It is a question of checking before purchase. Even so the pleated ones seem to work, but probably not for as long or as well, especially if water droplets are involved. I think the makers that were in the Filtre Auto stable supply the pleated ones and that includes some well known names like Purolator, Fram, Coopers etc.
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